First Build and questions.

[Monkeyman]

Did some shaping of the butt plate today to get those gaps closed in, I’ll probably do what I can and then plug the gaps with dust from sandpaper and glue. I also started inletting in the thumb plate today. It won’t need too much work as I already have somewhat of a fit with only 2/3 hours into working on it.

 

[Monkeyman]

Currently am waiting for drill bits and taps to come from TOTW so I can attach the thumb plate. In the mean time, I'm going to polish and clean the other brass parts.

 

[LawrenceA]

You know you can possibly tap the brass buttplate to close the gaps?

 

[Monkeyman]

You know you can possibly tap the brass buttplate to close the gaps?

I have been tapping the plate, but it doesn't seem to want to cooperate. I've been using both rubber mallets and actual hammers. Maybe some heat will help the plate?

 

[LawrenceA]

I have been tapping the plate, but it doesn't seem to want to cooperate. I've been using both rubber mallets and actual hammers. Maybe some heat will help the plate?

Many years ago I had the task of fitting a complex curved steel checkered buttplate. It was and is a thing of great beauty. After much filing and scraping it was as good as I was ever going to get it but there were still small gaps. I was instructed to grease the buttplate and then basically araldite in on with 5 minute araldite.
That thin layer of Araldite certainly filled any gaps and gave an impeccable fit. However I think it set dark which is fine against blued steel.

 

[Monkeyman]

Many years ago I had the task of fitting a complex curved steel checkered buttplate. It was and is a thing of great beauty. After much filing and scraping it was as good as I was ever going to get it but there were still small gaps. I was instructed to grease the buttplate and then basically araldite in on with 5 minute araldite.
That thin layer of Araldite certainly filled any gaps and gave an impeccable fit. However I think it set dark which is fine against blued steel.

Could you show a picture or elaborate on the Araldite system? I'm intrigued. I know historically these muskets had gaps in them because I've been looking at original examples, however I'd prefer the best fit I can get. I've been collecting a lot of the dust from some of the sanding process, and I've read that one can make a paste with that and beeswax which can be used to fill gaps, how useful is that?

 

[LawrenceA]

There really wasn't anything elaborate.
Grease the buttplate. Put glue on the mating face of the stock. Screw the Buttplate on. Let the glue set. the grease acts as a release agent.
Never heard the beeswax trick before

 

[Monkeyman]

Other posters have previously suggested that I take a ball peen hammer to the butt plate. I'm now heavily considering it. So far I know I need a ball peen hammer. How would I go about the rest? I've read posts that say heat is necessary, I've seen posts that say heat isn't necessary. Do I tap the butt plate attached to the stock or in the vice? Do I peen with the top screws in or just the bottom screw?

 

[LawrenceA]

If it were me (and it is not). I would not anneal the buttplate initially as the bend should be minor and the buttplate not yet work hardened.
I would polish the face of the ball peen hammer as any marks will get transferred.
I would then put 2 layers of masking tap over the hammer face for added security. Always take them off.
I would fasten the buttplate securely to the stock. This will allow you to see if it is bending and by how much.
Using the peen I would start tapping lightly almost square to the edge as this will give the most leverage without damaging the edge. Not sure I would use the ball but if I did I would strike in from the edge lightly. Increase itensity until the metal moves or distorts. If the metal moves keep going. If it distorts stop.

 

[Monkeyman]

If it were me (and it is not). I would not anneal the buttplate initially as the bend should be minor and the buttplate not yet work hardened.
I would polish the face of the ball peen hammer as any marks will get transferred.
I would then put 2 layers of masking tap over the hammer face for added security. Always take them off.
I would fasten the buttplate securely to the stock. This will allow you to see if it is bending and by how much.
Using the peen I would start tapping lightly almost square to the edge as this will give the most leverage without damaging the edge. Not sure I would use the ball but if I did I would strike in from the edge lightly. Increase itensity until the metal moves or distorts. If the metal moves keep going. If it distorts stop.

Awesome, thanks! These gaps are bugging the hell outta me and I can’t wait to get the out.

 

[LawrenceA]

How bad are these gaps?
Should you be still fitting it back?
Also Billraby's gun building videos show the tapping the buttplate f you want to see it done.

 

[Monkeyman]

How bad are these gaps?
Should you be still fitting it back?
Also Billraby's gun building videos show the tapping the buttplate f you want to see it done.

The gaps that are being closed with the ball peenhammer range from 1/32” to 3/64”

 

[LawrenceA]

Any chance of a photo?
But seems doable

 

[Monkeyman]

Any chance of a photo?
But seems doable

These are the gaps

 

[Monkeyman]

I got my hands on a ball peen hammer and started peening. I gave it a good hour and a half tonight, and will continue to work slowly during this week and next week. Here is my progress after tonight. Not a drastic difference, but enough to tell that there is one.

 

[LawrenceA]

Looks like you are halfway.
I would have said inlet the top a smidge more and most of that gap would dissappear both sides.
Rember it will be hard around the corner as you are compressing rather than stretching the metal. Take it real easy or you may take out a chip as the top will be wanting to move forward.

 

[Monkeyman]

Well, my garage is habitable again, thanks winter.... Time to continue inletting the barrel. May have brought it a little too far back in the barrel channel, but is fixable and powder will still ignite. Barrel currently needs to go straight down in the channel. I soon learned that this is a very time consuming part of the build. It took me about 5 hours to get the barrel to move downwards only a couple millimeters. Slow and steady wins the race I guess...

 

[LawrenceA]

Well, my garage is habitable again, thanks winter.... Time to continue inletting the barrel. May have brought it a little too far back in the barrel channel, but is fixable and powder will still ignite. Barrel currently needs to go straight down in the channel. I soon learned that this is a very time consuming part of the build. It took me about 5 hours to get the barrel to move downwards only a couple millimeters. Slow and steady wins the race I guess...

Someone with much more experience and knowledge than me put it as "You sneak up on perfection."

Hoe did the buttplate end up?

 

[Monkeyman]

Someone with much more experience and knowledge than me put it as "You sneak up on perfection."

Hoe did the buttplate end up?

Buttplate is better, will still need to fill some gaps with beeswax and sawdust in the top part of the mortise.

 

[Monkeyman]

Another 7ish hours in today. barrel inletting is a sloooooooow process. I threw on some documentaries on the Napoleonic Wars to listen to and chiseled away. Very slow process, in all 7 of those hours I probably lowered the barrel about 2mm further into the stock.

As I was clearing room for the rear of the barrel (not the breech plug, the back of the barrel has a small lip that takes up more space), I noticed the barrel start to go into the lock mortise. Here is a picture of a TRS precarve that matches my lock mortise. I went into a photo editing software and circled the point where the barrel is starting to peak through. Do I need to worry about this? As you can see with the pictures of my gun, the barrel still needs to come down by a lot. I will get pictures of it tomorrow.

Barrel should be inlet about this deep (not my photo)