First C&B -- what else do I need?

[AZ-Robert]

Got an Uberti 1851 Navy in .36 coming via USPS next week. It will be my first percussion gun so I don't have any of the other gadgets that I might need to go with it. Looking for some suggestions.

Can you use a capper on those pistols? Or is the space so small you have to put the caps on by hand? Inline capper? Or one of those "universal cappers" (looks like a curved tear drop shaped thing)

What size caps fit on those Ubertis?

Do you pull those nipples off on a regular basis? If so, I reckon one of those special wrench gadgets is required. One size fits all?

I've read the chambers are .375"... does that use a .375" ball, or is a .380" ball the way to go?

How many of you guys have spare cylinders? Do you load them in the gun then remove them? Or do you have some sort of loading gizmo that lets you seat the bullet with the cylinder removed from the gun?

Thanks!

 

[biliff]

Can you use a capper on those pistols? Or is the space so small you have to put the caps on by hand? Inline capper? Or one of those "universal cappers" (looks like a curved tear drop shaped thing)

Yes, cappers work fine, either in-line or curved. Be advised that some caps may or may not work in any individual capper. Sometimes the caps are a tad too short and will fall over inside the capper. Different manufacturers caps will vary in dimension even though they may be marked as being the same size.

What size caps fit on those Ubertis?

What I said above. Add in that the nipples will vary from gun to gun and may even vary on the same gun. Generally, I've found a size 10 Remington cap or a size 11 CCI to work.

Do you pull those nipples off on a regular basis? If so, I reckon one of those special wrench gadgets is required. One size fits all?

I do. They can be a bear to get off if you let 'em go too long. Part of that is because you can't get a lot of torque on 'em, even with a good fitting nipple wrench.

I've read the chambers are .375"... does that use a .375" ball, or is a .380" ball the way to go?

You want a ball that is oversize for the chamber. It should shave a ring off the ball when you load the chamber. I load .375's in my Uberti's and get a good ring. If your chambers really are .375 (read the manual that comes with it). You will probably need to step up to a larger ball.

How many of you guys have spare cylinders? Do you load them in the gun then remove them? Or do you have some sort of loading gizmo that lets you seat the bullet with the cylinder removed from the gun?

Can't help you there.

 

[Legionair]

You can use a straight line capper, but may find it more of a hassle than using your fingers (I did anyway...).
Now, my navy is a Pietta and I use #11 caps which are moderately snug (could probably use #10's), but also use the cap keepers (surgical tubing sleeve that fits over the caps and stops them falling into the works, highly recommended when not being PC). Don't know but would bet Uberti nipples are the same.

You will need a nipple wrench to adjust depth and to secure nipples if removed and replaced.
*** I personally remove and clean nipples and cylinder back regularly and reinstall nipples with antisieze compound -- others may not ****

Cabelas sells a Colt repro L-shaped nipple wrench/screwdriver that works very well and I believe is historically accurate.

My Pietta is a .44, but I believe all the .36's will use a .375 ball -- check the manual with your revolver as it will specify.

I only have 1 cylinder. Remingtons were easy to swap cylinders on. Not so with Colts. You would have to drive out the wedge, pull off the barrel, remove the empty cylinder, replace it, then put the barrel back on, then reinstall the wedge.

*** I just load and shoot.... load and shoot..... lots easier. ****

Be aware most will not shoot where aimed. Some are off a foot at 10 yards. The sights on these pistols are there in name only. Not much real use. I sight along the barrel like on a shotgun (unless I am "gunfight target" shooting with wax bullets).

Check the timing and cylinder/barrel alignment when recieved as these pistols are occasionally hit or miss on quality. Lightly twist the cylinder left and right when at full cock and after hammer down to see if there's too much play in the cylinder stop. Too much play could misalign the chamber causing the ball to hit the edge of the barrel forcing cone. Also hold the revolver up to the light and look at the gap between the cylinder and the barrel, should just see a razor slit of light there.

I express these as my personal opinions and habits. Others may do things different or even better. I'm sure there's other ways to do things.... but this might help get you started.

Good luck.... :thumbsup:

Legion

 

[TN.Frank]

You'll need a Powder Flask, capper, balls(.375") grease to put over the ball, powder(3fg or Pyrodex Pistol) and some CCI #11 caps. I used a 22gr spout in my Uberti Navies and it worked fine. You can also pick up a flap holster to carry your pistol in when you're out shootin'.

 

[Zonie]

You will defiantly need a nipple wrench that's made for a pistol.
There isn't much room down in the notches where the nipples live so the right nipple wrench has a smallish end on it.
I have noticed my pistol nipple wrench doesn't fit the rifle nipples on my other guns either so I'm sure the tangs that engage the nipples flats are a little closer together than the rifle wrench.

Most of the .36 cal revolvers have chamber diameters that range from .367 to .372 (it is different with different makers) so the .375 balls should work just fine. By the way, Uberti is the company that uses the .372 dia chambers.

Zonie

 

[Wes/Tex]

I'm one of the old-farts at this and started by using fingers for capping and a short piece of mop handle to knock out the wedge. Most folks were using Crisco back then...how things have changed! Crisco still works but can smell rancid if left warm a while. Have kept at it in spite of the new felt wads, just like the way lube works. Have used size 11 caps for years although the current production usually fit size 10's better. Just give'm a light squeeze before pushing them on. Don't be too energetic with pushing the caps on...learned that one the hard way!! BOOM!! SURPRISE!!! :rotf:

Have used a spare cylinder with a couple of revolvers through the years. Loaded them on the gun and capped them off the gun. Don't have any currently. Mostly it's a matter of being careful and having fun!! We take a c&b revolver to the shoots we do for highschool kids and tell them the reasons shoot-outs were at high noon was because it took all morning to load up! :hatsoff:

 

[crockett]

The only other thing I would suggest is some screwdrivers to take the gun apart. The best idea is to get oversized screwdrivers and then carefully grind(or file) them down until they precisely fit the screws. A poorly fitted screwdriver will slide out of the notch and scratch the surrounding metal. I use two different screwdrivers for the large and small screws.

 

[Smokin6Gun]

All I can add is that my Uberti 1851 Navy needs .380 balls. Chamber diameters are .374". Found that .375" balls pull back out on the loading ram, or push forward when fired.
I use CCI#11 caps usually hemmer seat them or use a wooden dowel after I place a cap on each cone by hand. They go off every time and don't fall off before firing.
Also check between the hammer and frame that there are no spent caps down in there...if you have a misfire check down that hammer trougth first. 1851 suck them in there like a vacum sometimes...HeHe!
15gr-24gr of BP will work well. I make my own lube pills from Parafin,Bolwax or Beeswax, & olive oil. Melted/mixed cooled and punched out....38/.357 shell will work or a tube/cutting tool. Place this pill on top of the powder then press the ball down on it. '51 will shoot all day without fouling hardinin' up and binding cylinder.
Try that when you get a chance and let me know how you like um.

 

[Zonie]

A little more information on the Pistol Nipples and wrench.

I measured the distance across the flats on some Rifle nipples and got between .202 and .214.
The Pistol nipples all measured .181-.182.

My Rifle wrenches measure between .218 and .250 across the flats while my Pistol wrench measures .185. The outside diameter of the Pistol wrench I have is .310, while the Rifle wrenches are between .40 and .50.

Have Fun!
Zonie

 

[mec]

My ubertis work fine with speer .375 balls but I frequently find under sized and out of round balls from Hornady. safe bet is .380 bullets which you can get from dixie gun works or a lee mould. cap size generally recommended is 11 but tens usually fit closer. You are better of without a capper unless it is absolutely necessary- like for capping Paterson replicas that have now capping window.

capping by thumb is easier and allows you to pinch the cap if needed for a closer fit.

 

[AZ-Robert]

Uncle Sam's letter carrier shoved the gun in my mail box around noon today. Now I'm like a kid on Christmas day.

With no experience with the other brands, I have to give this Uberti pretty high marks. Fit and finish is very good. Gun is tight, indexes properly, no play in the cylinder at full-cock, just a sliver of space between forcing cone and cylinder face, no buggered up screws, nice finish on the metal and on the wood, and great fit between wood and metal. It might rattle apart upon firing but fresh out of the box it looks like a nice gun.

Put the mic on the chambers and found it to be as both Smokin' Gun and Zonie reported -- 0.374" right at the edge, but tapered to 0.372" within the first tenth of inch (not that there was any doubt :winking. What scanty literature there was in the box recommended 0.380" balls, but I'm starting with a box of 0.375" balls I found at the local gun shop. The CCI #11 caps I also found there seem just the right fit.

Now I just need to clean off the coat of oil it came with (can see it 'clogging' the nipples) and get it out for some shooting. Chances are the nipple wrench I ordered from Track will be here by then.

Thanks for the suggestions, guys; I'm sure I'll be back with a few more questions as time goes on.

Oh, by the way, this gun came to me from The Possible Shop... shipped first business day after the call and arrived three days later.

 

[AZ-Robert]

Now that I've spent a little more time looking through the 'documentation' that came with the gun, I have to give that aspect of it low marks. Not very well illustrated and potentially confusing. For example, in the "general use" instructions (a separate booklet covering all their Colt and Remington models) they give 0.380" ball with a load of 16-25 grains (no granulation given) as a recommendation. All well and good, but when you discover the "Muzzleloading Manual" (a separate booklet) you find a recommendation of 0.375" ball and 15-22 grains of 3f. Not an issue if you've done some ML shooting, but potentially confusing to a newcomer.

The manual also does not discuss disassembly beyond removing the barrel and cylinder. Do you guys go beyond that when disassembling for cleaning?

 

[Smokin6Gun]

Robert, Congrads on the New Uberti 1851 Navy...you'll love it, a real keeper. have fun shoot straight and be safe.

SG

 

[rebel727]

Start with the lighter charges then try some heavier ones. The gun can handle the heavier ones listed with no problems. Use the one that you like best. Generally it's not neccessary to remove anything but the barrel,cylinder and grips for cleaning. To clean the action just remove the grips and rinse it out under some warm soapy water and spray it thoroughly with a good lubricant. Have fun! :thumbsup:

 

[Zonie]

Now that you've got it, don't you think the Colt 1851 is about the sweetest pointing pistol you've ever held?

At least, I do.

Ole Sam (IMO) sure got things right when he came up with that gun!

Zonie

 

[AZ-Robert]

Oh yeah! It is just right. The grips are perfect for my hands and the heft is just right. Bigger guys might feel cramped on it, but it is easy to see why it was this grip size that migrated to the SAA.

Thought about loading it up and taking it out on the ranch today... but talked myself into waiting on that nipple wrench.

 

[AZ-Robert]

Zonie -- it might be an age thing but that rear sight notch looks awfully narrow and shallow to me. Did you open up the one on your gun? If so, what's the best approach... just tackle it with a triangle file?

 

[Zonie]

I have always left the rear sight alone on my Colts.
To me, that sight isn't a real precision piece of work in the first place so I can't see bothering with it.
If you don't like yours, you can try to file it out.
Having not tried myself, I don't know if the hammer is just colored or if it is really color case hardened. If it is hardened, you'll play hell trying to file it without ruining your file. :hmm:

Zonie

 

[Rebel]

I have used a triangular file on a few of the Colts. The hammers did file but it doesn't really help much with aiming. There is side play in the hammers, not much, but enough so that you can't really get the same sighting each time. Besides, the Navy Colt is made to Hip shoot not aim. Just point and shoot. You will be surprised at the accuracy you can get that way once you practice it a while.

 

[wwfeatherston]

One thing that you will need is PATIENCE!

It will take a while before you get the hang of C&B shooting.

You will have caps fall off, cylinder jams and you may despair at first, that you will never get 6/6 to fire on the first attempt!

Your guns will need a heap of cleaning, you will get your hands dirty (always have a rag in your back pocket!) and the caps never quite fit just right!

But if you stick at it, you will soon get passed all that- and find they are more fun than a wheelbarrow full of cartridge guns!