First time flintlock build

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Claycow said:
Lastly, I live in kentucky. It gets humid. Is the choice to leave the barrel in a hot shed in the sun an option when the weather turns?

That would do it. Maybe even just having it in your house with the windows open.

Don't bother with boiling water.
With this process of browning there is such a thing as having too much and boiling water would be too much.

Another thing that would work well, and I've never seen anyone mention here is a "vaporizer". The thing that most folks use to humidify their kids bedrooms when they have a cold.

A low cost vaporizer in a bathroom or closet should work great.
Just fill it up with water, plug it in and close the door for a few hours.
Just make sure its steam outlet isn't aimed at the barrel. (You don't want water drops to form on it) and make sure the Vics Vapo-Rub is totally removed from it. You don't want the oils from the Vics floating around your barrel where it could get deposited.

You might also have to get around the,

"WHAT ARE YOU DOING WITH BILLIES HUMIDIFIER? YOUR TRYING TO RUIN IT WITH YOUR NASTY OLD GUN STUFF! WHY ARE YOU ALWAYS DOING THINGS LIKE THIS?....."
 
I was thinking bout a humidifier but i wasnt sure it would give off enough.

Ill look into it and debate that vs oxpho. If i can find the humidifier for cheap i may go that route.
 
Hey guys. Running into trouble again...i have extra parts that i do not see in the instruction manual. First 2 pictures show a picture of my gun(1st picture has extra parts at the bottom). 3rd picture is close up of first picture. 4th are extra parts. Any ideas on what they could go to?

I feel like they go with the trigger assembly






The parts
 
Decided to go with browning lmf. Humidifiers are apparently cheap. Buying one off craigslist. Taking hoy shower and using humidifier. How would i lay my barrel while it has this stuff all over it?
 
Is the barrel pinned to the stock? If so the pins may be for that, otherwise maybe just extra locator pins for the stock. The spring holds the ramrod in, brass screws are probably for the nose cap or ramrod thimbles, and the nipple is also in your picture.
 
The leaf spring goes around the front lock screw, lays inside the stock against the barrel and holds the rammer in place just as trot said. The two roll pins may have just been accidentally dropped in the kit and are not needed. The two brass machine screws, sometimes are used to fasten the nose cap on.
 
The leaf spring is your ramrod hold down as previously stated, also the brass screws are for your nose cap. The two steel dowel pins are to pin the barrel and stock. Lastly that's your nipple that screws into your powder drum that holds a #11 cap. Can't help but notice... Is your lock setting correctly in the mortise? I know you don't have it secured (as I can see your lock bolts) but it could potentially cause issues and wear out your nipple prematurely if not installed correctly. Also can see your hammer is to far behind the powder drum, also could be that you don't have your barrel in place as well. Just checking! :thumbsup:
 
Is this how i hold it down with leaf spring and the barrel just slides on top?

Also is the nipple cap where its supoosed to be?




As for the rods. I already have rods to connect the butt stock to the forward stock, if you look carefully in yhe previous picturea youll see i had them. I also though those brass screws were to screw down the front brass but i also had proper screws for those.
 
No, the pins hold the stock to the barrel. They pass through the stock and pin the barrel to the stock.
 
Trot. I guess im confused. I have these thingys


which go on the bottom of the barrel and go into my forward stock. Those rods are pictured up top. And that is the forward stock and bottom of barrel you see.



The only thing really holding the barrel to any part of the stock is the one screw i put in at the beginning of the stock near the nipple. Kinda scary
 
I actually see these pins on the manual now. "Barrel tenon pin" theyre placed right above the ramrod assembly but im not seeing any holes anywhere for this yo go
 
I'm surprised.

Usually on these Factory made "kits" all of the holes are drilled so all the builder needs to do is to put things together.

Your kit seems to have been made so the builder actually has to do something more than just putting it together.

There needs to be something to hold the stock to the barrel besides the tang screw at the breech.

There are several ways of doing this but the most common is to install metal underlugs to the bottom of the barrel. Those seem to be in your last picture.

These underlugs fit into the dovetails that are milled into the bottom of your barrel. They usually need to be forced into the dovetails tight fit.
Pockets that are milled into the bottom of the barrel channel in the stock clear these underlugs when the barrel is installed.

I looked at your photos after enlarging them and it appears there are no existing cross drilled holes for the pins that will pass thru the barrels underlugs.

Hopefully I'm missing something here because if this is true, you have some work ahead of you.
More than the average newbie kit builder normally has.

You will have to assemble the two piece stock so there is no gap at the split.

You will have to install the barrel into the stock(s) after marking the locations of the underlugs on the outside of the stock.

Then remove the barrel and accurately measure the distance from the top barrel flat to the middle of the underlug. Write this measurement down.

Install the barrel so it is fitting all the way down into the barrel channel. If you have some C clamps, it is a good idea to lightly clamp the barrel in place.

Then, measuring down from the top flat on the barrel, mark the measurement you found on the side of the wood. Do this at both underlug locations.
(You must be as accurate as possible with this marking. If you are wrong the drill bit will not hit the middle of the thin flange on the underlug that is hanging off the bottom of the barrel.)

Measure the diameter of the two pins. You will need a drill bit the same size as the pins and an electric drill to drive it.

Now, you will need to drill as accurately as possible the pin holes thru the stock and thru the underlug(s).
Before you start drilling, make sure the drill is going to pass straight thru the stock, parallel with the top barrel flat.

If all goes right, your drill bit will produce a hole that passes completely thru the stock and thru the metal underlug(s).

Good luck. :)
 
Pretty sure i understood what you wrote. Seems like i will have to be spot on. Once i get those holes drilled and pass those rods through, do j close it up with wood putty or glue to make sure.the 2 rods stay?
 
Claycow said:
Pretty sure i understood what you wrote. Seems like i will have to be spot on. Once i get those holes drilled and pass those rods through, do j close it up with wood putty or glue to make sure.the 2 rods stay?

No. They will stay just fine unless you really wallow out hole while drilling.

Be sure to bevel the ends of the pins before installing them, BTW, lest they chip the wood when you inevitably take them out again.
 
Thanks. Any comments on how that leaf spring goes in? It doesbt seem to retain the way i have it put in
 
The front lock bolt goes through the eye of the spring with the end pointing to the rear. The spring presses on the barrel when the ram rod is inserted.

2u97h1t.jpg
 
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