I'm about to purchase my 1st BP rifle. I've shot both traditonal percussion and the newer inline rifles, but never a flint. I've made my mind up to get a Lyman Great Plains in .54, and thought mainly about percussion. Knowing that I'm going to shoot balls and patches, do I go "balls to the wall" and get a flint. How much trouble are they, and how often do you encounter problems such as miss fires?
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flint vs. percussion
- Thread starter evanschd
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I wouldn't use the word "trouble" when describing a flintlock. It does take some more care and attention to detail when operating. I can say they are very satisfying to shoot once you learn your weapon. I've shot percussion, but my first muzzleloader was a flinter. It wasn't so much of a hassle that I couldn't hit the ground running with just a little bit of advice from the fella's on this site.
flyfisher76544
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GA stringnsmoke said:
They aren't any trouble at all. But as already stated it is more attention to detail. Like you, I have shot Perc(But not the "I" word). The flinter is a lot more fun and rewarding to me IMHO. Few things you need to research and all, Like can you get ahold of real blackpowder? Flinters need real BP not Pyrodex. Oh....where in Georgia are ya? I am over on the coast and it looks like you are on the opposite side there.
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look deep into my pst...
you are feeling very sleepy, and i will count to three, and when i count to three, you will awake with the irresistable urge to go in search of sharp rocks, which will make your new rifle work better...
one
two
hey, do i put the bevel up or the bevel down?
cut to the chase- get a flint...
you are feeling very sleepy, and i will count to three, and when i count to three, you will awake with the irresistable urge to go in search of sharp rocks, which will make your new rifle work better...
one
two
hey, do i put the bevel up or the bevel down?
cut to the chase- get a flint...
Flintlock.
You've already tried the others so here's a chance to try something new again...and since you've already built some experience with muzzleloaders in general, the only thing left to make the final step to Flintlocks is the flint lock ignition itself.
At first glance the Flintlock ignition can be a little puzzling because there's not much else in life that its similar to...but that's actually the enjoyment of the journey, picking up the challenge of learning about it...once you do it'll be no different going deer hunting in the woods with it than carrying a .30-30.
After all, it must not be rocket science if you consider it was "THE" technology for hundreds of years all over the world, used successfully by people with far less education and resources available to them than you / we have right here.
So if you'll just read the good info here in the 'sticky' at the top of the Flintlock section you'll develop a feel for the very few basic things to focus on with a Flint lock assembly...and use real blackpowder...after one range trip you'll be on your way.
PS:
Oil up your caplocks real good so they don't rust because most people who get bitten by the Flintlock bug don't shoot them anymore :grin:
You've already tried the others so here's a chance to try something new again...and since you've already built some experience with muzzleloaders in general, the only thing left to make the final step to Flintlocks is the flint lock ignition itself.
At first glance the Flintlock ignition can be a little puzzling because there's not much else in life that its similar to...but that's actually the enjoyment of the journey, picking up the challenge of learning about it...once you do it'll be no different going deer hunting in the woods with it than carrying a .30-30.
After all, it must not be rocket science if you consider it was "THE" technology for hundreds of years all over the world, used successfully by people with far less education and resources available to them than you / we have right here.
So if you'll just read the good info here in the 'sticky' at the top of the Flintlock section you'll develop a feel for the very few basic things to focus on with a Flint lock assembly...and use real blackpowder...after one range trip you'll be on your way.
PS:
Oil up your caplocks real good so they don't rust because most people who get bitten by the Flintlock bug don't shoot them anymore :grin:
That kind of question usually comes with the first part of the answer being, "It depends ..."
I'll start with the first part of the answer by asking you what is the availability of black powder. Flint locks just don't perform unless you use real black powder such as Goex, Schuetzen, Wano, Graf or Swiss.
The Lyman Great plains is a generally well built gun. As with all flint locks you will need to learn how to best prepare the gun for firing. The lock needs to be just snug in the lock so the wood from the inletting doesn't drag on the springs. Even on a well built gun some of the parts surfaces may have to be polished. Use good flints such as the black English or Rich Pierce's Missouri flints.
A flint is a real joy to shoot and will help all your other shooting by the disciplines you will learn to be effective.
I'll start with the first part of the answer by asking you what is the availability of black powder. Flint locks just don't perform unless you use real black powder such as Goex, Schuetzen, Wano, Graf or Swiss.
The Lyman Great plains is a generally well built gun. As with all flint locks you will need to learn how to best prepare the gun for firing. The lock needs to be just snug in the lock so the wood from the inletting doesn't drag on the springs. Even on a well built gun some of the parts surfaces may have to be polished. Use good flints such as the black English or Rich Pierce's Missouri flints.
A flint is a real joy to shoot and will help all your other shooting by the disciplines you will learn to be effective.
Mountainman56
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Well IMO the only thing to do is have at least one of each, more is better. :thumbsup: I've been shooting traditional percussion rifles for 34 years. In all that time I have only fired a flintlock twice. The first time was 33 years ago and obviously the guy knew even less about flintlocks than I did at the time (whick took some doing). The experience turned me off on flintlocks for a long time. The second time was a couple years ago when Huntin Dawg let me shoot his GPR flintlock. Since shooting his and drawing from the combined knowledge of the many flintlock gurus on this forum I came to the conclusion I was missing out on something. I now have a half finished Isaac Haines in my "Man Cave" and recently purchased an Austin Halleck .50 flintlock that will be delivered next week. I am hoping to take my first flintlock deer this fall and I am certainly looking forward to it.
There will always be several percussion rifles in my arsenal (and at least one more Hawken that I plan on building) but I am certainly looking forward to the flintlocks. So my advice is get one and then get the other. Deny yourself as few experiences as life (and wife) will allow.
There will always be several percussion rifles in my arsenal (and at least one more Hawken that I plan on building) but I am certainly looking forward to the flintlocks. So my advice is get one and then get the other. Deny yourself as few experiences as life (and wife) will allow.
Well put...exactly the feeling that came over me...and its important that no one misunderstands these feeling as "put-downs" about caplocks...I enjoyed shooting several calibers of caplocks for several years.Jblk said:
But ever since my first buck with a Flintlock, I only made two range trips with caplocks in the following 10 years and eventually sold them all...bought more Flintlocks in other calibers, smoothbores, etc.
Guest
GA stringnsmoke said:
What does that mean? You can shoot patch and ball in a cap gun.
People should only purchase a flint if they truly want one.
If you are truely interested in the traditional aspect of hunting with ML's I don't think you would have any problems with a flintlock, a poorly made one can drive you up the wall, but the learning curve on a good one is not to steep, I believe the LGP has a fairly good lock as I recall if it needs some tweaking it is not a major undertaking, the ignition is a tad slower with a flinter but no so much you will notice without measuring equipment,they need a bit more care in wet weather but not enough to be a deal breaker,as others have said the flintlock takes you back and if you use the PRB and sights that were used in the flint era it is a satisfying experience.
cowpoke1955
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I'm about 20 minutes from the Georgia state line, just further north. I hunt with a .54 GPR flinter with no problem in the same type of woods you will be hunting in. At first, I had a lot of flash in the pan. Some of the guys here suggested to drill the touch hole to 1/16th". I did and it helped, but still had some flash in the pan. Someone else suggested to drill the touch hole to 5/64th", which I did. This solved my problem. Now, she is reliable and a joy to shoot. As others have said, you have to use real black powder. I use FFFFg Goex for prime at the range, but FFFg Goex while hunting. My favorite load is .530 ball, pillow ticking patch lubed with Ballistol and 80 grains of FFg Goex. You'll have to try both FFg and FFFg in different charges. Each rifle likes something different, but that is true in mdern firearms too. I bought a .54 GPR percussion 30 years ago. Since I got my flinter, the percussion hangs on the wall waiting for the grand kids to get big enough. If you get that flinter and have any questions, which you will, just come here and ask. A lot of folks here will be more than willing to help.
hanshi
Cannon
Ah, the flint lock! So simple in design and theory yet so complex in actual operation. Even a cheap, shoddy cap lock will usually work more or less satisfactorily but not a flint lock. A good flint lock must have the proper geometry, spring tension balance, frizzen tempering, etc. to work reliably. The flint lock is, IMHO, the epitome of firearms evolution.
If you have a fair to good quality flint lock and find you are having problems, a bit of tuning usually fixes the problem quite nicely. Don't just throw up your hands and quit.
Usually just getting help from an experienced flint shooter and learning the ropes is all you need to make the rifle a reliable shooter. There are a number of "little" things that have to be done correctly, unlike a percussion. If you're still having trouble, only then look for problems with the lock.
I have a couple of percussion pieces that I really love but I seldom shoot them. I haven't hunted with anything except flintlocks for years. Never a problem with reliability.
If you have a fair to good quality flint lock and find you are having problems, a bit of tuning usually fixes the problem quite nicely. Don't just throw up your hands and quit.
Usually just getting help from an experienced flint shooter and learning the ropes is all you need to make the rifle a reliable shooter. There are a number of "little" things that have to be done correctly, unlike a percussion. If you're still having trouble, only then look for problems with the lock.
I have a couple of percussion pieces that I really love but I seldom shoot them. I haven't hunted with anything except flintlocks for years. Never a problem with reliability.
Billnpatti
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If this is your first black powder rifle, you do not want a flintlock. For heaven's sake, buy a caplock to learn on. It is a lot less trouble and you are much less likely to become discouraged by shooting a muzzleloader. After you have been shooting a muzzleloader for a good while and are quite familiar with muzzleloading rifles, then you can get a flintlock. They tend to be much more persnickity than a caplock.
I think a guy just has to love muzzleloading before he is ready for a flintlock. However, once you are ready for a flintlock and you buy one, you will become a convert to them. Those of us who have learned to shoot them prefer them over a caplock any day. But, for now, get the caplock. :thumbsup:
I think a guy just has to love muzzleloading before he is ready for a flintlock. However, once you are ready for a flintlock and you buy one, you will become a convert to them. Those of us who have learned to shoot them prefer them over a caplock any day. But, for now, get the caplock. :thumbsup:
I am only doing holes in paper, just target shooting.
As to accuracy a percussion can be worse than a flint lock and vice versa.
As other before me pointed in their words out, you need a fast and reliable lock, and do not forget a good trigger. Than there is no real difference in the accuracy of percussion or flint lock. In target shooting, the recods are the same or one ring difference at utmost.
Some advise to start with percussion muzzle loader to gain experince before switching to flint lock.
If you can try out before buying try out. Ad may be there is an experienced shooter of flint lock ml around you can ask or who shows you the finer arts of how to do it.
As to accuracy a percussion can be worse than a flint lock and vice versa.
As other before me pointed in their words out, you need a fast and reliable lock, and do not forget a good trigger. Than there is no real difference in the accuracy of percussion or flint lock. In target shooting, the recods are the same or one ring difference at utmost.
Some advise to start with percussion muzzle loader to gain experince before switching to flint lock.
If you can try out before buying try out. Ad may be there is an experienced shooter of flint lock ml around you can ask or who shows you the finer arts of how to do it.
hanshi
Cannon
Since you brought this up I'll add my two cents worth. I'm a rabid flint shooter but have to admit this approach has merit. I started off with a cap lock, myself, and got a flint lock a year or two later. By then I had learned quite a bit. In my case I would have done quite well starting with a flint. I seemed to have a congenital affinity for flint and muzzleloading in general. Most bp fans don't fall into it so easily; it takes them a little time. Still it did help some to start with cap.
Like most of these guys, I started out with a percussion. A CVA Hawkin type to be exact. I still have her but she doesn't get much attention anymore. It wasn't long and the flint bug began to bite. It was like maybe I was missing out on something, you know? So I began to investigate and the more I researched the more I discovered that the rock hounds are not only a dedicated breed but a breed apart. They smile knowingly when the cap shooters expound on the benefits of the cap over the flint but it's almost like the attitude of the Harley riders over the those who like the rice burners - "If you have to ask you wouldn't understand." Still, most flint lovers that I know are quick to offer advice to those who are truly seeking knowledge. At any rate I purchased one - and then another - an then another... I don't think it will really end. Once you become twitterpated, you're twitterpated and there's no looking back. Oh, I shoot the capper from time to time but my main most "go to gun" is a flinter. And I'll pick up one of the three more times than not. I have a 18 ga. fowler that I use on birds mostly, a 32 that I use for small game and a 50 Henry for the bigger stuff and for playing around. All of them are alot of fun. Do what you want, but eventually, if you stay with this exciting/adictive/nostalgic/HowintheworlddidIgetintothis/sport of Black Powder shooting, you'll own a flinter.
Guest
Billnpatti said:
Oh, PLEASE! I strongly disagree with this advice. My first muzzleloader was flint and it fired the first time I loaded it. It's not rocket science, and in fact, it's very simple.
Some people are just not very adept at some things - that could be the problem. It may not be to gun.
