Fusil de Chasse , for fella in N.H.

[Rob M.]

Rob when your inletting the breach/tang you put I let black on end of barrel and tang as well as under the tang and barrel.And what do you use to clean that inlet black off your hands the barrel and especially the wood.

Yeah , when first start I don't inlet black but shortly ,esp. when plug is started down V ,I do .... I clean with rubbing alcohol in shop then soap and water at the house ....

 

[Rob M.]

Lay out lug and RR pipe positions , Make barrel lugs and solder them to the barrel ....

 

[Rob M.]

Always start at lug closest to breech then work forward , file lugs flat ,inlet black on and around lugs ,barrel in , center and tap ....remove . Make pencil lines as shown when the whole lug shows it self ...

 

[Rob M.]

Barrel lugs inletted , barrel back down to bed , mark spots and center punch , tap e barrel back at muzzle , no gap , clamp down then drill for barrel pins ....barrel is all down and pinned to stock ....good deal ....

 

[Rob M.]

Strip that lock ! Mark your T.H. optimum spot then get that barrel out of the stock ....drill small hole then larger one to see your T.H. position. That spot dictates your lock position . As your sinking the lock down you keep that spot at top of pan and center . Later when drilling small adjustments can be made but this is important . Youll see gap at breech and flash pan ,oh well , thats the joys of production barrels ....

 

[Rob M.]

Clamp or have barreled stock in vice keep barrel down in channel , place lock plate where it needs to be , T.H. position and front of lock over web for front bolt and level as possible ,then trace top and sides of lock plate bolster , bottom you can get to till you take plate away so have to measure and mark but bottom isn't critical ....then start chiseling straight down ....take bolster inlet all way to the barrel ..When close to barrel use a sacrifice chisel so you dont ruin a good chisel edge against the steel barrel ....

 

[Rob M.]

Following inside of your trace line , start inletting the lock plate down . Use 1/8" or smaller chisel on ends

 

[Rob M.]

Shes down . Watch at pan/bolster area ....till it is flat ,level and no gap at pan .... At pencil you can see half of pan hitting the barrel , then I sunk er down a couple more times in the front then she was down ....next will be to start inletting the inside parts of the lock and drilling for the lock bolts .....

 

[Rob M.]

Put plate in mortice , use undersized bit and drill holes to mark wood ... Mark hammer hole , put parts on holes and trace parts , mark end of sear ...Sear hole comes first . Put tape on drill bit to mark trigger position , then drill sear hole . I drills under sized hole then as close to 7/16 hole as possible , some times not possible , larger hole the better but if it gets close to edge , no bigger.....mark middle on under side for trigger slot . Start chiseling out those parts

 

[TDM]

Amazing workmanship @Rob M. !

 

[Rob M.]

When you are inletting the individual parts just remember , your only roughing them in . After roughed in you assemble the lock , cover the insides with inlet black then start tapping the lock in , pulling it out and checking for black to remove . It takes awhile . Knock the edge of the wood above lock off at angle first , room for **** to be there and to move ...One of the first things you do is mark on rack side of hammer / **** as pointed to with pencil , you gouge it out so **** moves and does touch stock ....then , kepp tapping the lock in and removing black ....on this lock screw heads too. Keep doi g this till lock goes to bottom

 

[Rob M.]

Strangely ....this one goes to half ****. If reluctantly, you usually have to fight it more ... It is down all the way , its flat at T.H. position .Keep working lock and removing black in the lock mortice .... I want to drill out the trigger slot ,dont know if I will today , so I can work lock without removing each time .... To remove , brass hammer , tap on each side of pan lightly ....

 

[Rob M.]

Keep at it ,black on inside of lock and on the hammer , put in mortice , work lock , I'm still only to half **** now , take out lock and remove black spots on wood ....its workin better each time ... I marked sear hole position on the side , then marked on bottom , drilled holes for slot , opened them up into slot ....now I can put lock in and work the lock with screw driver in slot ....keep going till it works correctly , no drag ,no marks inside or outside at hammer throat , make sure its seated , bedded completely ... make sure it goes to each position and , rest , half , full , and doesnt fall or is touchy at full **** ....mines still movin rough ... still have to keep refining . When trying to get it to go to full **** most of the trouble will come , at this stage ,from throat of hammer hitting wood on outside above lock keeping the hammer from going back any further and not getting to full **** position ...this ones doing that now

 

[Flintandsmoke]

Loving the updates! She’s shaping up

 

[Rob M.]

...

 

[Rob M.]

Shes darn close to being a working mechanism ...

Loving the updates! She’s shaping up

 

[Rob M.]

Why thank ya bud ....very kind .

Amazing workmanship @Rob M. !

 

[WALT53]

Why thank ya bud ....very kind .

I’m all eyes and ears Rob ,just taking it all in .

 

[Tradbow]

Enjoy watching you build a gun. I hope to build one someday

 

[Rob M.]

I’m all eyes and ears Rob ,just taking it all in .

I was hopin so bud