Fusil de Chasse , for fella in N.H.

[Rob M.]

Its fighting me for full ****. I ground off a little on inside of hammer throat and removed what looks like enough wood at same spot on wood but ....aint showing much black but ....needs more ....

 

[Rob M.]

Ahw righty !! We got full **** now !!

 

[Rob M.]

Ok ...you can go to trigger band trigger slot now but for s#its and giggles I want to drill the middle lock screw .... The most important lock screw , dictates the other stuff ....any who here we go . WALT53 wat h this here ....first part . Look at my lines ....you want in between these lines ...front line , to right , is the end of your barrel....line to left is the end of breech bolster ....Stay in the middle of these lines ! Not to close to either .....measure width of bolster , drive on face , divide in half scribe that line on face , now ....you have your target area ....center punch the center , obviously ....there ya go nothin to it ....before you drill , and drill it in a drill press if you are able to , clamp the d@mn barrel down into the channel ....I found out the hard way.

 

[Rob M.]

Drill it tap drill size all the way through , then take lock out and drill 3/16" all way through then lock back in and run tap through the Side plate side and tap that lick plate , done . I use 8/32" .... Chamfer the hole in bolster a little , little oil on tap , go slow , back off often to clean and break chip ...go slow !

 

[Rob M.]

Trigger making time ! Ok ...pattern is in Bills book . I use same pattern for all my trade guns then cut down, refine or change as I go ....leave pad long and cut to length and final.curl.later ... Work the pad , make the pad ...all your doing is ball peen hammer straight down , nothing fancy . When its flat as in part c you can just call it done if you want. I peen on edges ,both sides then file at slight angle then clean up hammer marks all over and smooth. After pad is made mark pattern on metal stock , cutaway extra , then grind to your shape .... Once its shaped close to final THEN cut the trigger off the stock ...clean up edges a bit at cut and curve edges at cut ...got ya a trigger ! The top part , height. will have to betaken down later for adjustment ....but now ....gotta start that slot .... Measure thickness of that trigger ...thats the slot size you need ....

 

[Rob M.]

Trigger finishing pics from last post . Make sure curve on rear of trigger is higher than top of pad , wood hides the curve that way ....On the Sideplate side ( S.P.) mark the length of your mortice . Just mark on top of stock the front and rear of your lock , then over on S.P. side ....on top of wrist too..... all around ain't bad idea

 

[Rob M.]

Your marks indicating the sear hole ...in front , mark 1/8" + , then lay your trigger there ....mark at the end plus an 1/8".... mark ....there's your slot . Check front of slot very straight , chisel straight down , no angle !

 

[Rob M.]

Chiseling , filing ....get that trigger in there ! Its fighting me . My special file I made for such work ....keep at it till it goes up to position and moves back and forth correctly ....p@in ....then ....finally goes in , to the bottom , enough to get to sear when lock is in ...finally ...well , sorta ...the slot is pretty good but the stock is too thick at bottom ....time to take awayvextra wood , get it close to final so trigger can be fit ...its a guessing game

 

[Rob M.]

Gotta get rid of that extra wood at bottom till I'm at least to the black line , tad more . Can't go to pencil line , that is ramrod hole bottom ....keep going until to black line ish , then gotta fit trigger , take off any extra on top , get all working good and what I think will be good wood at bottom THEN I can drill pin hole for trigger ....

 

[Rob M.]

Finally...got her down to where I want her and drilled and pin ... She needs a tad of adjustment , as per usual , got a bit of slop to take out , but thats tomorrow ... Time for water bucket over the head , then lazy spot and watch Mountain Men DVD.

 

[Rob M.]

....workin !!

 

[WALT53]

Trigger making time ! Ok ...pattern is in Bills book . I use same pattern for all my trade guns then cut down, refine or change as I go ....leave pad long and cut to length and final.curl.later ... Work the pad , make the pad ...all your doing is ball peen hammer straight down , nothing fancy . When its flat as in part c you can just call it done if you want. I peen on edges ,both sides then file at slight angle then clean up hammer marks all over and smooth. After pad is made mark pattern on metal stock , cutaway extra , then grind to your shape .... Once its shaped close to final THEN cut the trigger off the stock ...clean up edges a bit at cut and curve edges at cut ...got ya a trigger ! The top part , height. will have to betaken down later for adjustment ....but now ....gotta start that slot .... Measure thickness of that trigger ...thats the slot size you need ....

Gotta get rid of that extra wood at bottom till I'm at least to the black line , tad more . Can't go to pencil line , that is ramrod hole bottom ....keep going until to black line ish , then gotta fit trigger , take off any extra on top , get all working good and what I think will be good wood at bottom THEN I can drill pin hole for trigger ....

Rob how far below ramrod line is the black line and what determines the black line and how far does it run .Does it run from end of forearm to end butt or just along forearm to just past back of lock.

 

[Joemolf]

Rob when your inletting the breach/tang you put I let black on end of barrel and tang as well as under the tang and barrel.And what do you use to clean that inlet black off your hands the barrel and especially the wood.

Soap and water for your hands; light sanding and scraping for the stock. No chemicals or cleaning agents on the stock you don’t want it seeping into the wood IMO. Stuff can be messy but it cleans up easily. Amazing it doesn’t seep unless you use a thinner as I’ve read here

 

[Rob M.]

Its just a guesstimate by sight its probably 3/16" . Thats how much material will be left below the ramrod hole for strength, actually approx. 1/8" after final shaping . It goes from ramrod entry then curves at wrist ....from there it will taper into butt stock , curves at wrist .....

Rob how far below ramrod line is the black line and what determines the black line and how far does it run .Does it run from end of forearm to end butt or just along forearm to just past back of lock.

 

[Rob M.]

....

 

[Rob M.]

Much better ...had to take the slop out , put in wood flint and frizzen ... Now I can take it around and make " BOOM !" Noises when I shoot it !

 

[Rob M.]

I'm a glutton for punishment , LOL ! Using the 100 year old steel again ... Making buttplate .... Measure LOP , make buttplate and put er on there ....

 

[Rob M.]

Front lock bolt position drilled , mark on plate where main spring ends then line up with web wood ...drill ...

 

[Rob M.]

Patterns , Metal mountings cut out , in the rough , from the old 100+ year old metal .... buttplate , trigger plate side plate . side plate bolt holes aligned and drilled . Trigger plate slot , preliminary holes drilled ....

 

[Rob M.]

Make and inlet a 100 year old trigger plate ...