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At the lock panels it must be the thickness of the lock bolster plus a little. Forward of the planned lock molding go for 1/8” if you’re convinced everything is square and you can saw very accurately. Otherwise shoot for 3/16” and get the rest with your tools of choice later: plane, spokeshave, rasps
 
Depends on how chunky you want the rifle to look. Leave 1/4" and file it down to 1/8" or so finished size. In addition a too-deep ramrod channel will make it look slab sided. I like about 2/3 or more of the rod exposed. That allows you to roll the wood from the barrel to the rod channel, but leave it a little thicker at its widest. A shallow rod channel also helps hide a too thick web. I also like the wood edge to be below the center line of the barrel's side flat. I use a sheet metal gauge held against the side flat to set the thickness and follow the swamp.

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When cutting the sides of the forestock my teacher taught me to mark it by holding an 1/8" drill bit and pencil against the barrel marking the line. Then cut it on a bandsaw leaving a "generous eighth inch" of wood.

This applies to flintlocks early through golden age.
 
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