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I made a noobie mistake on cleaning rod -- Range rod for PA long gun

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koz

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Ok I ordered a custom cleaning rod from Kibler. I went to use the rod and its thread pitch is for modern cleaning attachments. I am kinda in the dark on what to do.... Is there a place where I can order and adapter piece? I don't know what the modern thred pitch is to order new cleaning jags,etc.

Please help. I am so nervous using the wooden rod. I have only fired my gun 12 times. I love it but don't want to snap the wooden rod.

Thanks Koz
 
Muzzleloading cleaning attachments and loading jags come in 2 thread sizes, 8-32 and 10-32 with the #10 being larger diameter and therefore stronger. 8-32 is the universal size for modern firearms. You need to know what the thread pitch of your Kibler rod is (call and ask if you can't figure it out). You shouldn't need an adapter.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Category.aspx/558
 
From the title I thought this thread was going to be different.

I recently had a patch stuck in the chambered breach of one of my guns. No biggie I'll just use the patch puller. Screwed it in and wanted to make sure it was fully entwined into the patch so twisted a bit hard and SNAP! broke the damned thing. Wasn't a big deal though, just ordered another and it came out easily. I bought my first muzzleloader nearly 10 years ago and I still make silly mistakes from time to time.
 
We have had metal and synthetic ramrods for so long now that old wives tales about broken ramrods and impaled hands from wooden rods are rampant. Most of them are just that, old wives tales and made-up stories. I'm sure it has happened but if you listen to some guys, you'll start believing that if you ever use a wooden rod, it will break and it will run through your hand. If that were true, there would be a lot of guys with hand injuries from broken rods. If you have been shown the right way to use a wooden rod, you will see that this is pretty rare and improbable. If you are just figuring things out by yourself, well you probably have read or been told about "all of the broken wooden rods" and you have to use a steel or synthetic one for safety. I've seen it and heard it many times.

Look your rod over well. If it has little grain run-out and no knots or twists in the rod it will be fine, especially if it came from a reputable gun builder. As has been said, grasp the rod 6 inches from the muzzle and push down. Never grab at the top and push down, this is when rods break. Common sense and proper procedures will keep you safe. Once you learn this, you should not be nervous.
 
You can always drill the 8-32 threads and retap to 10-32. I use both wooden rods and delrin never had a problem with either. Don't like using steel or fiberglass they can damage the crown.
 
I am so nervous using the wooden rod. I have only fired my gun 12 times. I love it but don't want to snap the wooden rod.

Thanks Koz
Why do you think at you'll snap your wood rod? Kibler makes quality stuff -- he wouldn't put a rod likely to just snap in his kit. Don't hold the rod up high when pushing down... Grasp it only, at most, 6" to a foot above the muzzle. Then just keep moving your grip up.

Back in the day, this was all they had. Don't let all the gloom and doom get you. The only rod I've broken in 40+ years is one that got caught in a car door. Just be careful and don't get in a hurry. You'll be okay.
 
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Why do you think at you'll snap your wood rod? Kibler makes quality stuff -- he wouldn't put a rod likely to just snap in his kit. Don't hold the rod up high when pushing down... Grasp it only, at most, a foot above the muzzle. Then just keep moving your grip up.

Back in the day, this was all they had. Don't let all the gloom and doom get you. The only rod I've broken in 40+ years is one that got caught in a car door. Just be careful and don't get in a hurry. You'll be okay.
Done something like that as well, it was with my dads little 32. Hung the end of the ramrod on a seat belt trying to get it out of the way of a sick dog...it was a mess. 🤮🤢:doh:

RM
 
I am curious, by now you know that you have 8-32 threads from Kibler (at least that's what mine are) what thread size are you adapting to?

And why?
I misspoke the cleaning rod came from Rice Barrels. Not Kibler. I had to go back to my emails and see where I got the rod. I was able to email them, and got a fast response on the thread pitch. I them was able to order the correct part from the track of the wolf.

Koz
 
Has anyone mentioned pinning your hunting rod? I would go ahead and do that as well. Also if you use a wire brush stay away from those that are crimped on to threaded base. Go with the one that has the bristle binding wire that loops through the threaded base.

Just FYI

RM
Here are the cleaning brush differences.
Rod Man is right! Use the one with the looped base ONLY!!!
9C12B288-863A-4CC2-90EB-C6B08B249DE0.jpeg
 
We have had metal and synthetic ramrods for so long now that old wives tales about broken ramrods and impaled hands from wooden rods are rampant. Most of them are just that, old wives tales and made-up stories. I'm sure it has happened but if you listen to some guys, you'll start believing that if you ever use a wooden rod, it will break and it will run through your hand. If that were true, there would be a lot of guys with hand injuries from broken rods. If you have been shown the right way to use a wooden rod, you will see that this is pretty rare and improbable. If you are just figuring things out by yourself, well you probably have read or been told about "all of the broken wooden rods" and you have to use a steel or synthetic one for safety. I've seen it and heard it many times.

Look your rod over well. If it has little grain run-out and no knots or twists in the rod it will be fine, especially if it came from a reputable gun builder. As has been said, grasp the rod 6 inches from the muzzle and push down. Never grab at the top and push down, this is when rods break. Common sense and proper procedures will keep you safe. Once you learn this, you should not be nervous.
I have used nothing but wooden rods for 35 years for loading and cleaning. The only times my steel rods come out is when I am forced to use a ball screw, or to help someone with a problem (stuck ball due to fouling) I get my rr blanks from the hardware store; every time I pass the dowelling bin, I check the stock for those with straight grain with little or no run-out. When I replace a rod, it has been in kerosene for months. When one comes out, another goes in to a half inch pipe filled with enough kero to immerse the rod blank. The pipe then gets propped in a corner until I need a new rod (either for a new build, or because one in use has worn out from rubbing on the muzzle). I have never broken one except to have the brass tip break off (the weakest poit). I like to have an inch or two protruding past the end of the barrel when in the thimbles, so it's pretty easy to re-attach the brass and still have a useable rod. I am pretty sure the tales of folks getting their hands impaled are based on very few actual occurances. If you can't load and clean comfortably using a wooden rod, IMHO your patches are too tight.
 
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