Just a couple questions on my first build.

[chucktaylor]

Well I am building my first Hawken kit. Now I know that this forum is very partial to the GPR as far as introductory kits goes, but due to a great deal and an impulse buy I have ended up with the cabelas hawken kit. The stock looks like a nice walnut and i think with a little work (or more likely a lot of work) it can turn out pretty nice. Questions:

How tight should the pieces fit into the pre inlayed stock? (patch box, lock, tang, etc.) Should they be pretty snug or slightly loose?

What is the easiest and best looking browning? Birchwood Casey, Danglers, or Laurel?

Should I leave the brass and other parts in the stock while sanding and finishing? What about the case hardened lock?

I any of you could impart any good wisdom regarding these questions it would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[paulvallandigham]

Leave the lockplate out of the mortise when sanding. The Case colors will scratch easily, and you don't want that to happen. The other parts can be left in place, but use some judgment. The buttplate has to marry to the stock all around, so screw it on and sand down to the plate. Same with the patch box. I leave off the triggerguard, and sideplate. Escutcheons are also left off the forearms, as is the entry pipe if you have one. When I get down to the very final fine sanding, I will put the escutcheons, patchbox, sideplate, and sometimes, the trigger guard on, and simply tape them up so that I can make sure the wood to metal fit is close. The Tape will protect the finish of the brass parts so they are not scratched by the sand paper. You can leave the taped parts in place during finishing work, too.

The Browning compounds you ask about are all good. They give slightly different results. The best thing to do is spend the money to buy all of them, and then do some testing on scrap metal you have.

How tight should parts fit? It depends on the part. the patch box is held on by screws, so it doesn't need to be a press fit in the mortise. Same with the sideplate. The trigger guard should fit tight, as should the escutcheons, even though they too are held in place by screws. You don't want escutcheon plates wiggling around in the shallow mortise because if they bind the key, or pin, taking the key or pin out may result in destroying those small screws and tearing out an escutcheon on one side or the other. The lock plate has to come out on a regular basis for cleaning, so I don't think this should be fitted too tight.

These parts all get a bit tighter as you finish the stock with an oil finish. Expect to have to run a razor blade between the metal edges and the wood to free up the piece to take it out, and put it into the mortise easily.( I use an Exacto Knife blade to do this.) Obviously, the closer the actual fit, the more " professional" the work will appear, so do the mortise work very carefully.

 

[chucktaylor]

Thanks a lot. I will get to work!

 

[mickman15]

You may find this link helpful, lots of pics and directions.
http://hunting.about.com/od/blackpowder/l/aamuzzlekit_1.htm