Load for Uberti Walker Revolver

[45D]

You might want to actually make the described wedge and give it a try before expounding about how it is to hard, can't work and has no advantage!

No sir, have no REASON to make a wedge as I have found the wedges from Uberti (haven't tested Piettas yet) to be quite sufficient for use in revolvers firing +p ammo which is a good step beyond black powder pressures.

And yes, when you actually make, heat treat , fit new gun parts and try them out I supposed one can be referred to as an armchair experimenter, guilty as charged. I guess that makes Linebaugh, Gallegar and Bowen arm chair experimenters as they successfully take their revolvers far past any factory design parameters .

You mean "gun parts" like 2 fingered hands for Uberti or Pietta conversion cylinders or wide single finger hands you can "fit" for use in too wide Uberti hand slots or 2 fingered hands for R.M factory conversions (Uberti). Action parts that are fitted and timed?

Or, coil main spring conversions for Remington revolvers? With included action stops?

Yessir, these parts aren't or may not be readily available so . . . I make um in the shop . . .

Mike

 

[45D]

The whole reason you have to make the wedge tightening adjustment nut is because it will or has moved, distort/battered and needs taking up for it not to get worse.

Nope, again you're making stuff up!!!
Selective reading again?

In a post or 2 above I explained i use the wedge bearing for adjustment of the wedge position AFTER I "DIAL IN" the endshake spec i want.
Really?

Mike

 

[45D]

I reckon it must be ok to show Beauty and the Beast and her sister.
Both have a less than .002" endshake and shoot 45acp +p as a norm.

Mike

 

[Smokerr]

Been tapping the wedge in with wood or plastic mallet, shot hundreds of rounds, maybe close to 1000, like brand new. Per Mike, its driven in a bit further than I think it should be do the adjustment screw is a fantastic idea.

 

[Smokerr]

Wow, eye Candy!

Full on gate and ejection. very Nice

 

[M. De Land]

No sir, have no REASON to make a wedge as I have found the wedges from Uberti (haven't tested Piettas yet) to be quite sufficient for use in revolvers firing +p ammo which is a good step beyond black powder pressures.


You mean "gun parts" like 2 fingered hands for Uberti or Pietta conversion cylinders or wide single finger hands you can "fit" for use in too wide Uberti hand slots or 2 fingered hands for R.M factory conversions (Uberti). Action parts that are fitted and timed?
View attachment 372277
Or, coil main spring conversions for Remington revolvers? With included action stops?
View attachment 372278

Yessir, these parts aren't or may not be readily available so . . . I make um in the shop . . .

Mike

I was referring to wedge making as per subject discussed but yes new ideas that are beyond factory design spec although I don't care for flat wound coil springs although they do have application in tight spaces and increased tension requirements.
I also like to lathe make/wind my own coil springs for the specific requirements encountered. Guide struts really get the most out of any coil spring !

 

[45D]

I don't care for flat wound coil springs although they do have application in tight spaces and increased tension requirements.

You reduce the power of a coil compression spring by reducing the material diameter.

That's not a flat wound coil, that's a "tuned" factory Ruger coil.

In fact, it's a "progressive" main meaning the top section (1/3) of the spring is lighter (collapses before the bottom) which allows easy start and allows momentum gained to compress the heavier segment. Old Cowboy shooters thumbs love it!

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

No sir, have no REASON to make a wedge as I have found the wedges from Uberti (haven't tested Piettas yet) to be quite sufficient for use in revolvers firing +p ammo which is a good step beyond black powder pressures.


You mean "gun parts" like 2 fingered hands for Uberti or Pietta conversion cylinders or wide single finger hands you can "fit" for use in too wide Uberti hand slots or 2 fingered hands for R.M factory conversions (Uberti). Action parts that are fitted and timed?
View attachment 372277
Or, coil main spring conversions for Remington revolvers? With included action stops?
View attachment 372278

Yessir, these parts aren't or may not be readily available so . . . I make um in the shop . . .

Mike

Did you actually design and make any of those hands or springs ?

 

[45D]

Did you actually design and make any of those hands or springs ?

Yes, the RM hand leaves a little to be desired so, easier to make a replacement.
The hands from Kirst are nice but the Pietta hand had no braking (we've discussed that before) but the Uberti was good so mine has the braking and he is "adjusting" the Pietta per mine.
I just make my own because it's quick.

As far as the coil main, I started that yrs ago but as far as i know I'm the only one.

Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Yes, the RM hand leaves a little to be desired so, easier to make a replacement.
The hands from Kirst are nice but the Pietta hand had no braking (we've discussed that before) but the Uberti was good so mine has the braking and he is "adjusting" the Pietta per mine.
I just make my own because it's quick.

As far as the coil main, I started that yrs ago but as far as i know I'm the only one.

Mike

How hard do you make the hands as they typically are easy to file and stretch ? I met a knife maker at a gun show last month and may have a line on a Rockwell hardness tester that I've been desiring to own for a number of years.

 

[oldschoolhunter55]

I reckon it must be ok to show Beauty and the Beast and her sister.
Both have a less than .002" endshake and shoot 45acp +p as a norm.

View attachment 372284

Mike

dang them babys are niceeee

 

[northernThaiguy]

Wow! Both of you guys are geniuses!!!

 

[sethwyo]

Wish somebody made a .44 mold design that was like two round balls stuck together, maybe 2/3's or so of an inch long. Then you'd have the round backside that is so good for accuracy, a lube groove, round nose and a little more weight. Win-win-win.

I wanted such a thing when I had my first cap n ball revolver, wanted a boatail .45 .

I usto try to cast incomplete slugs from a mold that made the 225 round nose for the .45acp

I tryed to cast them incomplete so the end of them, the bottom or base was rounded instead of flat so I could load them in my ".44" cap n ball walker

 

[D Yager]

Simple solution is to chamfer the chamber mouths so you can start a .45 ACP bullet squarely. I like to yun a 5 degree reamer in the chamber mouth to a 1/4 inch. Doe's a couple of things, you can use a ball without shaving lead and use a 45 ACP bullet as well.

 

[M. De Land]

I wanted such a thing when I had my first cap n ball revolver, wanted a boatail .45 .

I usto try to cast incomplete slugs from a mold that made the 225 round nose for the .45acp

I tryed to cast them incomplete so the end of them, the bottom or base was rounded instead of flat so I could load them in my ".44" cap n ball walker

I've been using a heeled ACP bullet with the base only sized to fit into the mouth of the new Uberti Walker chambers I bought. I leave the top band full diameter and they so far are working quite well. They weigh 210 grains.
25 Yard target mixing balls and bullets. The aim was six o' clock on green .
A couple of wide shots owing to my wibbles and wobbles.

 

[M. De Land]

I've been using a heeled ACP bullet with the base only sized to fit into the mouth of the new Uberti Walker chambers I bought. I leave the top band full diameter and they so far are working quite well. They weigh 210 grains.
25 Yard target mixing balls and bullets. The aim was six o' clock on green .
A couple of wide shots owing to my wibbles and wobbles.

I'm thinking I will eventually open the chamber mouths to at least groove diameter but want to do some more experimenting with the factory chamber profiles that are tapered according to my plug gauges. Here are some pictures of a 60 cylinder being reamed to groove diameter.
I use the plug gauge in the quill to find x-y center in the mill vise of a shimmed and squared cylinder. The depth plug insures equal ream depth.
The reamer cuts a .45 degree transition into the chamber from the mouth reaming.
I use a reamer guide spud through the barrel frame hole on closed frame guns to insure bore alignment which is equivalent to line boring which probably is the most effective method of accuracy enhancement.
I have also found that 11 degree forcing cone cutting for conicals not balls, ( balls generally like steeper cone tapers) bore lapping high spots and re-crowning add percentages of accuracy improvement.