Misdrilled hole in lockplate

[chawbeef]

Unfortunately I got my forward lockplate hole angled downward so that it is too low on the opposite side plate. I tried opening up the hole in the stock to no avail. I ended up drilling the stock out to 1/4 inch and gluing in a 1/4 inch hardwood dowel to start over.
I am looking for suggestions on how to redo the hole in the lock plate. I think options are welding (I don't have the equipment), brazing (I can braze) or plugging.
I will appreciate any and all comments. Thank you..........Daniel

 

[Larry Akers]

Been there, done that. Countersink both sides of the hole slightly, thread in a section of screw, peen both sides into the countersinks and then run some braze into the joint and file smooth.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Chawbeef,
Two choices: Drill the lock plate hole larger and use a fine thread tap to accommodate a mild steel machine screw. Lightly countersink the outside of the lock plate so you can extend the screw beyond the sideplate enough to peen it into the contersink recess. File flush and you are ready for a new hole. The second option would be to just plug the original hole the same countersink/peen metal as above. I agree with LJA both sides should be countersunk.
Hope this helps, we all have Awe ships!
Flintlocklar :wink:

 

[don hepler]

I don't have a good answer and I have been a machinist, my entire adult life. I'm assuming that you have a brass plate on one side and the drill went low into the lock plate. And....the error is too much, just to go up to the next size thread.

If that is the case, then I would have it welded and then it would need to be annealed, in order to re-drill.

The only way, to prevent this from happening again is to properly jig it up, so the hole can be drilled straight. You would need a drill press. There are some tricks of the trade, on jigging for proper alignment, but I won't go into that now.

 

[Ames]

Or buy a new lock plate.

 

[chawbeef]

Or buy a new lock plate.

Out of the question. I don't cave in that quickly. :youcrazy: :v

 

[Davemuzz]

Or buy a new lock plate.

Out of the question. I don't cave in that quickly. :youcrazy: :v

A man on a mission!! Gotta love that!! :hatsoff:

 

[B.Habermehl]

Tap your existing hole, carefully degrease, degrease the bolt. Use rosin flux on both the hole and bolt, solder the bolt into the hole using rosin core solder and a torch being careful not to over heat. Heat till the solder will flow remove heat. Allow to cool and file flush. Center punch heavily and use a center to center jig on the drill press on your next try. BJH

 

[eggwelder]

happened to me on a small siler frizzen bridle. i welded, redrilled and tapped and no-one is the wiser.
used flux core wire and a low setting. i`m sure you know someone with a 110 buzz box.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Flint or percussion?

If flint, the frizzen spring will cover up much of it.

 

[Black Hand]

Slightly countersink both sides of the threaded hole in the lock plate, screw in a piece of threaded rod/bolt, peen the ends to fill the countersunk areas and dress with a file. Move on to drilling the hole again.

 

[Davemuzz]

Slightly countersink both sides of the threaded hole in the lock plate, screw in a piece of threaded rod/bolt, peen the ends to fill the countersunk areas and dress with a file. Move on to drilling the hole again.

LGA said the same thing in the 2nd post. But I'm curious when you say "Move on to drilling the hole again." Are you saying drill and tap in the same location that you just fixed? I can't seem to think it would work. Wouldn't the material you just "put in" fall out? :hmm: :shocked2:

 

[Black Hand]

LGA said the same thing in the 2nd post. But I'm curious when you say "Move on to drilling the hole again." Are you saying drill and tap in the same location that you just fixed? I can't seem to think it would work. Wouldn't the material you just "put in" fall out? :hmm: :shocked2:

From the description, the new hole will not be in the same place. If it were, why would the OP want to plug the existing hole...?

If the new hole was to be drilled close to the original hole, I would solder the threaded plug in place before peening into the countersink. I've only soldered one plug, but I was being cautious, as the new hole would remove ~1/2 of the plug.

 

[Davemuzz]

From the description, the new hole will not be in the same place. ...

Well, I didn't read where the OP stated the hole would be drilled in a different place. I can only assume that one would do that.....so that's why I ask for the clarification. OTOH....the older I get, the more I mis-read statements.

 

[chawbeef]

I ended up counter sinking both sides of the lockplate then screwing in a short piece of 8-32 bolt with red 262 Loctite in the threads. After that set up, I peened both sides and filed smooth. I redrilled the hole, half in the plug and half in the plate. Without moving the position of the plate on the drill press, I chucked up 8-32 tap and gently started it by turning the chuck with my hand while applying slight pressure downward. Once the tap was in the hole, I held it there and loosened the chuck, lowered the table and finished tapping on the bench. It lined up in the stock perfectly.
Now onto the rear bolt. :grin: :grin: :grin: ......................Daniel

 

[Davemuzz]

Nice job!! How you describe tapping is exactly how I tap metals. I've learned that no matter how straight I think the tap is doing it freehand......It's always off.....some a little....some, well....more than a little!! :surrender:

 

[Black Hand]

From the description, the new hole will not be in the same place. ...

Well, I didn't read where the OP stated the hole would be drilled in a different place. I can only assume that one would do that.....so that's why I ask for the clarification. OTOH....the older I get, the more I mis-read statements.

As the OP mentioned the bolt was angled downwards, it suggested to me that the new hole would per force be in a different location. However, the OP did not specifically state as much....

 

[chawbeef]

From the description, the new hole will not be in the same place. ...

Well, I didn't read where the OP stated the hole would be drilled in a different place. I can only assume that one would do that.....so that's why I ask for the clarification. OTOH....the older I get, the more I mis-read statements.

As the OP mentioned the bolt was angled downwards, it suggested to me that the new hole would per force be in a different location. However, the OP did not specifically state as much....

Yes the hole was not drilled in the same place. I drilled it a bit lower so as not to interfere with the barrel channel. Sorry for any confusion..........................Daniel

 

[don hepler]

In the future, if you want to have the hole come out at the correct loacation, first get a piece of threaded rod and sharpen it to a point, by grinding. Mount it on the table of the drill press and line it up to where the drill will come down and touch the point of the threaded rod. Now lay the rifle down(opposite side of the lock) on the point of the threaded rod. You will need another hand and a way to support the rifle. Also, insure that the rifle is level, square, etc. With a small drill you can drill, through the stock and it will line up with the threaded rod. Then you can use this hole(lock side of the rifle) as a jig to drill thru into the lock plate.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[chawbeef]

:thumbsup: Makes perfect sense, and exactly what I did.........on the second try. :hatsoff: ................Chawbeef