Misfire...

[bwhoffman]

keep the water level in the sink or bucket so that the adjustable type rear sights dont get submerged.

after washing/pumping the barrel, and a few dry patches, I run some fairly wet alcohol patches down the tube hard/fast enough that I can hear the air push out and also can see moisture. Which is usually water and then water/alcohol mix. I do this a second time and that will be straight alcohol that you can often see evaporate.

I quit using bore butter (my choice to do so) and use wd-40 or LPS3 for my final oiling/storage wipe.
wd40 has worked fine and I also wipe the lockand any other exposed metal surface.

I visit my guns often (weekly-2 weeks) and run a lubed patch up and down any ways.

Prior to the next shooting, I will run an alcohol patch to clean any excess oil and push air out the nipple to verify function, followed by a lubed patch. Just Because.

my method, not gospel, but hasnt failed me!

I also tend to use a bronze bore brush wrapped in a patch to do my main heavy scrubbing!

 

[Pork Chop]

I just had the mind set that water and guns don't mix.

Lucas,

I am with you on that one. The first time I plunged the barrel of my front stuffer into a bucket of soapy water, I was screaming inside because it was so counter intuitive to me. It works though! Best of luck!

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Brett,

I'm typing this for Louie's benefit. I've published this and distributed it to two black powder clubs that my son and I belong to so that the new members would get a good start.

How to "Rosey" Clean a Black Powder Cap-Lock Rifle:

At the range my son and I always use Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine. First make sure that the rifle is completely empty via your marked range rod. It should have a "load empty" indicator like a piece of masking tape wrapped around the rod. To use it we simply stand the rifle muzzle-up, bring the hammer to full-**** and make sure that there isn't a cap on the nipple. Then insert the range rod and look for the indicator to be even with the muzzle. If the tape is above the muzzle, there's something in the bore that needs to be removed prior to beginning the cleaning process. This could be a patched round ball (dry-ball) or a complete powder charge, or both! Make sure that the rifle is pointed in a safe direction and clear the bore. A CO2 dis-charger is great for this. If what's in there is a regular PRB with charge underneath, fire the rifle in a safe direction, remove the spent cap and you're ready to begin!

Tilt the muzzle up, bring the hammer to full-****, and squirt in some of the Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine, letting it run completely down the bore and through the flash channel and out the nipple. Next wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using a PATCH WORM on your range rod push the two soaking wet patches down the muzzle all of the way down. You'll notice some gray foam squirting out of the nipple. This is the Bore Shine starting to do it's job of emulsifying the black powder (or sub) on contact. Turn the range rod several times to snag the wet patches on the worm, then begin pumping the range rod back & forth several (6-9) times. Remove range rod, squirt more Bore Shine down the muzzle and soak another set of two patches and repeat. Keep doing this step UNTIL THE PATCHES COME OUT WHITE! Then take the whitest patches and give the entire drum and nipple area a good wipe-down, removing most of the black powder residue from the rifle. Let stand hammer off the nipple so the bore can dry some and then lower hammer onto nipple. Case your rifle to finish cleaning at home.

Once you're home, uncase rifle and separate the barrel from the stock. I use the deep sink in the basement next to my washer & dryer, but a 3-5 gal bucket works great too. Place a coffee can in the deep sink, turn water on to warm, remove nipple and place onto a paper towel wet with Bore Shine, place barrel muzzle-up into the coffee can. Wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using the same pumping technique, pump warm water in & out of the breech and draw water all of the way up the bore using the suction from the pumping action with the wet patches on the worm. Repeat this as necessary till all of the crud is removed from the breech. A few shots while sighting-in needs less work than a 52+ shot match! Next, drain the rifle's bore and dry patch it till the white patches come out dry. Finish cleaning the nipple by wiping Bore Shine onto the nipples threads and tap nipple on the paper towel to dry. The Bore Shine has a drying agent in it. Next make sure nipple area is clean by wiping with Bore Shine on a paper towel to break-up accumulated crud, then dry with paper towel.

Re-assemble rifle by first putting a drop of gun oil of your choice onto the nipple's threads, and using just your hand, turn nipple into the threads. Use nipple wrench just to make "snug", do not over-tighten. Next soak two more patches in Birchwood Casey's Barricade (formerly Sheath). Using range rod and patch worm, and with the rifle's muzzle pointed up and the nipple down in the empty deep sink, push Barricade soaked patches into the muzzle with the range rod. You'll notice oil spraying out of the nipple, and that's O-k. It means that the entire ignition pathway is now lubed against rusting. Twist range rod several times like before to "grab" the patches on the worm and pump the patches a couple of times, watching spray come out of the nipple. Then do a complete wipe-down of all of the external metal surfaces with the soaked Barricade patches. Clean-up lock externally with Bore Shine and use a small screw-driver and some Bore Shine on a paper towel or wet patches to remove black powder residue from the hammer pocket. Then wipe the entire surrounding area and dry with paper towel. Give the lock area a wipe-down with a paper towel followed by the Barricade patches. Re-install barrel, put in wedge pins, place on a folded paper towel MUZZLE -DOWN! The rifle will use what ever lube it needs and the rest will simply drain-out onto the paper towel. After several hours (overnight) rifle is ready for storage muzzle-down.

At the range, you can either use rubbing alcohol to flush the Barricade out or do what we do and just fire a couple of caps AFTER dry patching. This warms-up and drys the entire ignition pathway. Remove spent cap, and you may load and continue firing ALL DAY LONG! A spit patch once in a while is a good idea. Always follow it with a cap or two at the firing line to dislodge any foreign matter (crud) from the ignition pathway and to dry it as well.

The above drill isn't the ONLY way to do this, but it works for my son and I really well. I haven't told you to clean the lock internally...that's left to those with advanced knowledge. You know enough now to keep the rifle "in-service"! Have a great time with our hobby and KEEP IT CLEAN if you want it to go BANG!



Everybody has their own "System", and this system is mine! Bore Shine starts the cleaning process, but HOT WATER is needed to completely remove the black powder residue so that the rifle doesn't get in a "Fail-to-fire" condition!

O-K, now I have to go back to work :wink:

Dave

 

[J.D.]

squirt in some of the Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine, letting it run completely down the bore and through the flash channel and out the nipple. Next wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using a PATCH WORM on your range rod push the two soaking wet patches down the muzzle all of the way down. You'll notice some gray foam squirting out of the nipple. This is the Bore Shine starting to do it's job of emulsifying the black powder (or sub) on contact. Turn the range rod several times to snag the wet patches on the worm, then begin pumping the range rod back & forth several (6-9) times. Remove range rod, squirt more Bore Shine down the muzzle and soak another set of two patches and repeat. Keep doing this step UNTIL THE PATCHES COME OUT WHITE!

Once you're home, uncase rifle and separate the barrel from the stock.
Place a coffee can in the deep sink, turn water on to warm, remove nipple and place onto a paper towel wet with Bore Shine, place barrel muzzle-up into the coffee can. Wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using the same pumping technique, pump warm water in & out of the breech and draw water all of the way up the bore using the suction from the pumping action with the wet patches on the worm. Repeat this as necessary till all of the crud is removed from the breech. Next, drain the rifle's bore and dry patch it till the white patches come out dry. Finish cleaning the nipple by wiping Bore Shine onto the nipples threads and tap nipple on the paper towel to dry.

Sounds like a LOT of work to double clean your rifle. I just run a damp, then a dry patch through the bore when I'm finished shooting, and clean when I get home. Some of my friends use wet wipes, cut into convenient sized squares, to swab the bore when finished shooting at weekend long events. The bore is subsequently dried and oiled, then completely cleaned when we get home, though they do a good enough job with the wet wipes that it probably isn't necessary.

God bless

 

[gordy]

I would hope your Dad takes time to read and study on the cleaning methods with WARER discribed in the many posts you received.I'm over 72 years old and have owned ahd shot guns for over 60 yearsn and yes I cleaned my carteidge guns wth water when I knew they would be stored for more than a month or so. I have had my own gunshop and held a Gunsmith and dealers lic. for several years.Because of vision problems I no longer make my living in gun repair and sales. I do however still do research and enjoy building and maintaining my own small battery of BP weapons. There is little I can add to the information recived from the other members of this forum, except that it is important that the bore and breech area are totally dry before putting whatever preseritive(s) you choose to use.
I have used Pyrodex both RS and P in my caplocks when unable to obtain (REAL BP) but much prefer The (REAL BP)/ also th subs will not work in my flinters. I know your Dad is looking out for your safty and welfare,I have 5 children 25 grand children and seven great grand children, all but the youngrst enjoy shootin the old style BP weapons.Normally I would encourage you to listen and abide by your Dads wishes, but in this case He could be putting you in harms way.The longer that CRUD stays in the breech the more damage it will do, it needs to be removesd as soon as possible! One of my daughters shoots a CVA KEntucky cap lock nearly the same gun as yours I do not remove the barrel each time we clean it but use the tube mentioned by others here. I too, would be glad to talk to your Dad on the phonr, if He is interested e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll give you my number. Good luck and Good Shooting. :thumbsup:

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

squirt in some of the Butch's Black Powder Bore Shine, letting it run completely down the bore and through the flash channel and out the nipple. Next wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using a PATCH WORM on your range rod push the two soaking wet patches down the muzzle all of the way down. You'll notice some gray foam squirting out of the nipple. This is the Bore Shine starting to do it's job of emulsifying the black powder (or sub) on contact. Turn the range rod several times to snag the wet patches on the worm, then begin pumping the range rod back & forth several (6-9) times. Remove range rod, squirt more Bore Shine down the muzzle and soak another set of two patches and repeat. Keep doing this step UNTIL THE PATCHES COME OUT WHITE!

Once you're home, uncase rifle and separate the barrel from the stock.
Place a coffee can in the deep sink, turn water on to warm, remove nipple and place onto a paper towel wet with Bore Shine, place barrel muzzle-up into the coffee can. Wet two patches with Bore Shine, and using the same pumping technique, pump warm water in & out of the breech and draw water all of the way up the bore using the suction from the pumping action with the wet patches on the worm. Repeat this as necessary till all of the crud is removed from the breech. Next, drain the rifle's bore and dry patch it till the white patches come out dry. Finish cleaning the nipple by wiping Bore Shine onto the nipples threads and tap nipple on the paper towel to dry.

Sounds like a LOT of work to double clean your rifle. I just run a damp, then a dry patch through the bore when I'm finished shooting, and clean when I get home. Some of my friends use wet wipes, cut into convenient sized squares, to swab the bore when finished shooting at weekend long events. The bore is subsequently dried and oiled, then completely cleaned when we get home, though they do a good enough job with the wet wipes that it probably isn't necessary.

God bless

Hi J.D.!

Yeah, it's a little more work, but since the first part is done at the range, it doesn't take that much pumping to get clean patches at home. Also please consider that the boy already uses the chemical, so I wanted to relay to him how the use of it can be most effective. He wouldn't have a clogged breech if he did what my son and I do at the range. Our technique is good for a 52 shot NRA Qualification Match.

In fact, I've already used the "emergency Bore Shine" drill to get rifles back into service at several events where re-enactors who aren't really shooters come up with the darnedest clogs! Instead of casing the rifle for transport after the drill, we simply fire five caps at the line (after dry-patching), and then LOAD 'EM UP AND FIRE! That's how good the technique works!

I'd do the Bore Shine Drill at a Rondy if I was too tired to do the water cleaning (or had to many at the Camp pub). I'd give it the full treatment once I got it home though! Sort of like what your friends do with the wipes, only they're not FIGHTING A CLOG IN THE BREECH at the onset.

God Bless to you also!

Dave

 

[luieb45]

Alright, got my flush nipples and a lb. of 3f black powder. I got some questions. I haven't flushed out the barrel so it may still have some crud down there. Could I get it semi clear without using the flush yet? What I mean by this is I have taken the bolster screw out and cleaned it with some pipe cleaners. I have also used a .45 cal brush to get some of it out also. I am intending on shooting my black powder tomorrow but just shooting it about 5 or 6 shots. Would this work out? After I am done shooting I'll wipe the barrel with several wet patches with butch's blackpowder bore shine then go home and do the soap and water thing. Should I do the same procedure with my dads gun and pyrodex? What are the details on the alcohol flushing through the nipple to dry out that area? Would rem oil work better than wd 40 for coating the barrel after cleaned and dried? Thanks.

 

[ebiggs1]

I am failing to see not cleaning the gun thourghly. Hot soapy water is easy.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

In a word, MAYBE it will go bang at this point. I'd give it the flush treatment since it takes only about 15 minutes. I don't know what you were waiting for. Hopefully the last of the crud will flush out and your problems will be over!

I know that you're excited to go out and try real black. I and everybody else here want you to enjoy yourself! Flushing will get rid of the crud which can get into the flash channel the first time you try loading another PRB down the bore. That being said, if you give it another Bore Shine treatment as outlined above (Emergency Treatment) you should go bang! But please clean the rifle the right way when you're done, O-K Lucas?

Now go and clean the thing before bed tonight, and just a little Rem Oil will do. Remember to store it muzzle-down for the evening, and place it onto a paper towel so you don't make an oily mess and get yelled at!

NOW GO AND HAVE FUN!

Dave

 

[luieb45]

So if I do give it a flush tonight I probably won't need to flush as much water as if I were cleaning the whole gun. So a couple flushes should probably do right?

 

[bwhoffman]

Luie,
If you are giong to flush it, flush it complete!
You are already going to be set up, so might as well finish the job.
Either its clean or it isnt.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

So if I do give it a flush tonight I probably won't need to flush as much water as if I were cleaning the whole gun. So a couple flushes should probably do right?

Absolutely WRONG!

The worst thing that you can do is a half-a$$ed job! Cause you'll loosen-up some of the crud and not get it all out, resulting in yet another series of mis-fires.

You said that you brushed it. You'll also need to use a scraper or smaller-than-bore size brush to get all the way down into the drum area. When you flush all of the gunky crud out of it you'll see a "sea of crud" break-up and float off of the metal. Hot or tepid (almost hot) water and a little dish soap does the trick along with the brushing/scraping. Suction is your friend and will also help to break-up the crud and get it ready to be flushed out.

Once you work to break-up the crud with suction and pumping, it would be a shame to get lazy and leave it in there only to harden once more and cause you to have to start the cleaning process all over again!

Bore Shine on the patches along with brushing and hot water will do the trick! Then rinse, dry and oil lightly, with muzzle-down for storage!

Dave

 

[luieb45]

Alright. I have now cleaned my gun with water. What I ended up doing is putting an ice cream bucket at the muzzle and hooking up my nipple flush and filling a decent size plastic seringe and pumping water through the gun that way. I got my warm soapy water through an old cereal bowl and used the entire thing so is that enough? I ended up getting some chunks into my dirty water bucket so I think I did a good job. Then took out the bolster screw and dried all of that out with pipe cleaners. Now I have oiled the barrel lightly with rem oil and have the gun stored upside down right now and I'll check up on the gun in about half an hour and see if any rust has shown up.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Alright. I have now cleaned my gun with water. What I ended up doing is putting an ice cream bucket at the muzzle and hooking up my nipple flush and filling a decent size plastic seringe and pumping water through the gun that way. I got my warm soapy water through an old cereal bowl and used the entire thing so is that enough? I ended up getting some chunks into my dirty water bucket so I think I did a good job. Then took out the bolster screw and dried all of that out with pipe cleaners. Now I have oiled the barrel lightly with rem oil and have the gun stored upside down right now and I'll check up on the gun in about half an hour and see if any rust has shown up.

CONGRATULATIONS! You now probably have a clean rifle that will go BANG with the first attempt! The magic word I was looking for was "chunks"! Since you've already oiled it, just leave it alone for tonight.

As for tomorrow: snap a couple of caps PRIOR to loading it with the black powder. This will ensure that the flash channel is warm and dry. Then load and cap and fire in a safe manner.

Next cleaning session, look for the "chunks". If you don't see the chunks, keep working until you do! Consistency is the key!

Good luck and thanks so much for trusting us and listening to our sage counsel.

NOW GET SOME REST AND HAVE FUN AND BE SAFE TOMORROW!

Sincerely,

Dave

 

[luieb45]

Alright. I have now cleaned my gun with water. What I ended up doing is putting an ice cream bucket at the muzzle and hooking up my nipple flush and filling a decent size plastic seringe and pumping water through the gun that way. I got my warm soapy water through an old cereal bowl and used the entire thing so is that enough? I ended up getting some chunks into my dirty water bucket so I think I did a good job. Then took out the bolster screw and dried all of that out with pipe cleaners. Now I have oiled the barrel lightly with rem oil and have the gun stored upside down right now and I'll check up on the gun in about half an hour and see if any rust has shown up.

CONGRATULATIONS! You now probably have a clean rifle that will go BANG with the first attempt! The magic word I was looking for was "chunks"! Since you've already oiled it, just leave it alone for tonight.

As for tomorrow: snap a couple of caps PRIOR to loading it with the black powder. This will ensure that the flash channel is warm and dry. Then load and cap and fire in a safe manner.

Next cleaning session, look for the "chunks". If you don't see the chunks, keep working until you do! Consistency is the key!

Good luck and thanks so much for trusting us and listening to our sage counsel.

NOW GET SOME REST AND HAVE FUN AND BE SAFE TOMORROW!

Sincerely,

Dave

My dad came home today and returned with a lb. of 3f goex. He told me the story of when he bought it at grafs. He said the guy asked him how much he needed and I told him to try to get 5 lb. so I don't have to get it for a few years. The guy looked at him funny and snapped at him asking "what he is using it for." So my dad and this guy are having some kind of "interview" and the guy is quizzing him about our guns and my dad tells the guy about my gun and my dad's gun and how we've been shooting pyrodex and want the real stuff. The guy says he only has 1 lb. of 3f goex. Somehow I find this hard to believe. But I am going to use this sparingly and only target shoot with it about twice then save it for "special occasions" like hunting and prepping my deer loads in the fall. Is it just me or does a pound of black powder look much smaller than a pound of pyrodex? Just my thoughts. Thanks for the help. I have a feeling I'm not out of the woods yet because I cleaned this gun and it had been shot with pyrodex so I will see how it all works on black powder.

 

[Dave Rosenthal]

Once you get hooked on the real thing (black powder), you'll want Dad to mail-order the 5 pounds directly to your door!

I think (from what you told me tonight) that you'll do fine tomorrow. I'm getting ready to pull the plug for tonight, so will check this thread tomorrow.

Good night Lucas!

Dave

 

[jethro224]

Alright. I have now cleaned my gun with water. What I ended up doing is putting an ice cream bucket at the muzzle and hooking up my nipple flush and filling a decent size plastic seringe and pumping water through the gun that way. I got my warm soapy water through an old cereal bowl and used the entire thing so is that enough? I ended up getting some chunks into my dirty water bucket so I think I did a good job. Then took out the bolster screw and dried all of that out with pipe cleaners. Now I have oiled the barrel lightly with rem oil and have the gun stored upside down right now and I'll check up on the gun in about half an hour and see if any rust has shown up.

If you dried it good and oiled it there won't be any rust.

That way should work but you'd move a lot more water thru it by using the jag to push/pull the water thru the flush nipple. Think of your barrel as a giant syringe with the ramrod and jag as the plunger.

Have a good shoot tomorrow. I think you'll be shocked at the difference. Be sure and post your results. :thumbsup:

 

[luieb45]

Alright. I have now cleaned my gun with water. What I ended up doing is putting an ice cream bucket at the muzzle and hooking up my nipple flush and filling a decent size plastic seringe and pumping water through the gun that way. I got my warm soapy water through an old cereal bowl and used the entire thing so is that enough? I ended up getting some chunks into my dirty water bucket so I think I did a good job. Then took out the bolster screw and dried all of that out with pipe cleaners. Now I have oiled the barrel lightly with rem oil and have the gun stored upside down right now and I'll check up on the gun in about half an hour and see if any rust has shown up.

If you dried it good and oiled it there won't be any rust.

That way should work but you'd move a lot more water thru it by using the jag to push/pull the water thru the flush nipple. Think of your barrel as a giant syringe with the ramrod and jag as the plunger.

Have a good shoot tomorrow. I think you'll be shocked at the difference. Be sure and post your results. :thumbsup:

Jethro, I can't believe I forgot the ramrod as a plunger thing! My way worked tonight since the barrel already was clean but I'll be sure to do that tomorrow. I'll be trying a lot of new things tomorrow since I purchased a new patch grease too. It's the mink oil from track of the wolf. I'll keep you guys updated.

 

[jethro224]

When you clean it tomorrow with the ramrod & jag be sure and have some towels down and one around the muzzle to catch spills.

 

[luieb45]

Would a bore mop work better for flushing the water through since it fits in the barrel tighter than my cleaning jag? I don't really even use the bore mop for anything anyway.