my edward marshall build

[hoochiepapa]

I decided not to add more layers, it seems it's thick enough now. Made a little progress today, and things are going well.

 

[hoochiepapa]

I still have a bunch of filing to do, but it's lookin' good.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Did some shaping this a.m., going slow because I'm not quite sure how much to remove. I may have to shape the forend first. This is fun!!

 

[ryzman]

awesome

 

[hoochiepapa]

Well, I've learned something. Making a muzzle cap the way I was trying to do is very hard. First of all, I didn't leave enough room for stock material under the sides of the cap. I tried removing metal with rotary files, and can't seem to get enough removed. So I will start over, and give myself at least 1/16" oversized compared to the barrel. I'm learning a lot, and am in no hurry. Or maybe I'll make one out of horn like some have said. :grin:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Making a muzzle cap the way I was trying to do is very hard.

Everything else you've done to date looks none too easy to me. You shot past me at the engraving and the brazing.

 

[rich pierce]

Most metal nosecaps are made of sheet that is 1/16" thick or less.

 

[hoochiepapa]

That's a nice compliment. Thanks.

 

[hoochiepapa]

I agree, Rich, but I wanted, and still do, to make one like the cast ones you see on Jaeger rifles. I called rifle shoppe, and their catalog won't be out for a while, and I can't find pictures of their parts.
I'll try something different, right now I'm working on inletting the trigger guard. I need a diversion when I get tired.
Your #19 is very nice.

 

[rich pierce]

Mike, I have not seen the cast nosecaps but I have noted that cast thimbles on some jaegers can be surprisingly delicate. There's not a lot of wood out there at the muzzle, that's for sure.

 

[ryzman]

Im dieing to see this rifle completed.

 

[hoochiepapa]

SOrry this is taking so long, I'm really slow.

 

[Zonie]

Slow is good. :thumbsup:

 

[Nappers]

Amazing work.

I patiently wait for more work.

Take your time. Your engraving is awesome and couldn't find the "slip" you did.

Awesome!

 

[Birddog6]

Most of the cast nosecaps are very thick, thus end result is very little wood left under them. Some of them I take a milling bit & take metal out of them to have more wood under it. I always put Accraglas under them as to get all the strength I can at the nosecap. Then put a rivet or screw in the cap hidden by the RR. If I use a machine screw, it is installed from the inside with the flat head countersunk into the bottom flat of the barrel inlet, outside filed flush with the nosecap. If using a rivet, countersunk same way on the inside bottom flat & then lightly bevel the edge of the hole on the outside of the nosecap & peen the rivet in, then file flush to nosecap.

I prefer to make the nosecap & it be thinner, thus more wood under the nosecap. I usually use .040 to .045" thick metal for the nosecap.

Keith Lisle

 

[hoochiepapa]

Thanks for all the encouragement!!
Keith, thank you, I have tried to remove metal from the inside of the nose cap I made, it's very thick. I have some rotary files that I used, and they work pretty good. I'm inletting the trigger guard now, it's a lot harder than the standard longrifle guard, so I'm going very slow. I try to work on the rifle in the a.m., and then practice engraving in the afternoon.
I took a break on the nose cap, I'll get back at it soon.

My latest practice plate.

 

[Davemuzz]

Mike....all I can say after reading this post is..... :bow: ....Nice stuff!!!

Dave

 

[hoochiepapa]

I was going to post a pic of the trigger guard, but I can't login to photobucket. So you'll have to take my word for it, it's inletted. I'm working on the tail pipe now, Just about got it in.

 

[hoochiepapa]

Photobucket is back up!!

 

[MSW]

looks really great from where i sit!