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my edward marshall build

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Sorry to disappoint, Robby, but I'm gonna use the E.M. butt plate, and braze an extension on it. It already fits better than the acanthus, and will be easier to inlet. Time I learned how to braze.
 
You won't be hearing from me for the next week, my wife is doing one of her gazillion mile bike rides, and I'm going to support her. It starts Saturday and runs a week. Keep these guys in line while I'm gone? :v
P.S. Thanks for all your help and inspiration. :bow:
 
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E.M. buttplate is down.
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This is a design I came up with on my wife's gazillion mile bike ride. I'm not completely satisfied with it, needs more leaves or something at the heel. It also is not to scale, so I'll have to blow it up on my computer. If I can figure out how.
I intend to make the extension on the buttplate on top and solder it on as per suggestions from Snowdragon. It's amazing how much help is on this forum. Thanks, Bill!
 
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Got the extension soldered, and the whole thing inlet. A word for newbies like me. I thought I could inlet the buttplate, solder on the extension, then inlet that. WRONG!! I had to re-inlet the whole shebang. Ain't no shortcuts in this gig.
So now to the all-knowing masters of the gunmaking universe: Why is the extension a different color brass than the buttplate from TOTW? I got the brass from ACE hardware, and I thought brass was brass.
 
Because it has different alloys in the two metals. Dif. alloys & amounts of the alloy added in will make it a dif color.

Keith Lisle
 
Well, that just s^%*&. I figure if I engrave them with different patterns, it won't show as much?
 
Yep. Unless you buy 2 buttplates & cut part off one & solder it to the other one, you will notice the added piece.

Keith Lisle
 
I agree with Wick Ellerby. You should scab on some metal onto the sides of the tang and then file to fit the inlet in the stock.
 
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Polishing the lock. I'm using jeweler's files and water proof sand paper. Once I get the parts down to where I want them, I'll use different size dowels and small sanding blocks to polish 'er up. I already have an idea of a pattern to engrave on the ****.
 
Just a suggestion,.... Remember the hammer will normally be in the down (fired) position when viewed, so put it in that position with the tumbler & bridle on, so you are sure it will be at the proper location. Then base your lines from there.

Keith Lisle
 
My version of Murphy's Law. If I drop a chisel or gouge, it will land on the concrete floor sharp end first. :cursing: :(
I have one of those chef's mats, and it misses the mat every time.
 
They make a larger, longer mat than those you normally see in most places for sale. Mine is about about 6' long & 3' wide & it is 7/8" thick. Very dense rubber, non-slip, & no holes in it. It is awesome. Wife got me it for X-mas & as my hip joints were hurting me from standing at the bench so much. Instant cure, no more hip aches. Not cheap in cost, but it was well worth it.

Keith Lisle
 
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