My Kibler SMR Build Log
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Thanks. Not trying to be "authentic" in any way, shape or form, just functional and esthetic.
TOW doesn't provide dimensions for some styles.
They sure do look nice, though.
I think I'll order the Tennessee. Width is correct. And it's steel.
TOW doesn't provide dimensions for some styles.
They sure do look nice, though.
I think I'll order the Tennessee. Width is correct. And it's steel.
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Build Log Update
One More Thing
Possible template for toe plate:
(depending on whether the Tennessee works out, I suppose).
One More Thing
Possible template for toe plate:
(depending on whether the Tennessee works out, I suppose).
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Print it from TOW catalog with your printer set to ‘do not scale to fit’ or something similar. It should print actual size.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I told you those ram rod pipe tabs were too long.....
Build Log Update
One More Thing
I elected to proceed with the hardware store bar stock to see what I could do with it while waiting for the TOW toe plate to arrive. I've got three feet of the stuff; I can experiment and screw up as much as I want. Regardless, either choice still involves the inletting issue and neither solves it.
First, I stuck the template on the bar stock:
Then used a hacksaw with a fresh blade to cut the major angles:
A Dremel grinder drum rounded out the corners:
Then it was time for some filing. This bar stock had some pretty deep milling marks. I got some good practice using draw filing techniques:
Then it was time for Mr. Dremel once again, this time with his sanding discs:
And finally some wet 'n dry sandpaper:
All other issues being resolvable, I think this is looking like something I can use.
One More Thing
I elected to proceed with the hardware store bar stock to see what I could do with it while waiting for the TOW toe plate to arrive. I've got three feet of the stuff; I can experiment and screw up as much as I want. Regardless, either choice still involves the inletting issue and neither solves it.
First, I stuck the template on the bar stock:
Then used a hacksaw with a fresh blade to cut the major angles:
A Dremel grinder drum rounded out the corners:
Then it was time for some filing. This bar stock had some pretty deep milling marks. I got some good practice using draw filing techniques:
Then it was time for Mr. Dremel once again, this time with his sanding discs:
And finally some wet 'n dry sandpaper:
All other issues being resolvable, I think this is looking like something I can use.
Build Log Update
One More Thing
I actually think it doesn't look all that bad even without doing any inletting:
I'd just have to match and round the edges where they meet, drill a couple holes, and I'm done.
One More Thing
I actually think it doesn't look all that bad even without doing any inletting:
I'd just have to match and round the edges where they meet, drill a couple holes, and I'm done.
appalichian hunter
75 Cal.
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Your gun, but the toe plate needs to be inlet, to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. Take the beveled edge off and inlet the toe plate. A sharp chisel and go slow .
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Ok, I have to assume you are just baiting folks for a response… if not, well…
The Evil One, Mr. Numb, posted some photographs, but maybe with too much bling. Here is a photograph of a beat up GPR and its toe plate. Maybe it will inspire you. Idea is to inlet and mount it flush with the stock wood, not proud of the stock wood.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Please excuse my evil bling. Ir all works the same. Evil bling or not. 
Thanks for the pic. I like it. That makes it easier to see what should be done.
Thanks for taking the bait ... errr ... thanks for your response.
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I stumbled across this video on making a toe plate for the SMR, and I think it's excellent. He offers many good tips on doing the inletting:
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
How did I ever learn to make guns before Algore invented the internet? 
This thread is becoming rediculas.... No one is this incompetent.... Unless they just are looking for laughs..
Your test toe plate is MUCH too thick, they are wispy little things, almost like an afterthought.
I bought one from Track for my SMR, not close to being period correct but liked it, so there.
It looked much better polished and grayed but after I sold the rifle I deleted most of the finished pictures for some reason.
Before anyone has a cow; the Phillips heads screws are in for test fitting, filing and polishing, that way the slotted screws only go in once, no buggered up screw slots that way.
I bought one from Track for my SMR, not close to being period correct but liked it, so there.
It looked much better polished and grayed but after I sold the rifle I deleted most of the finished pictures for some reason.
Before anyone has a cow; the Phillips heads screws are in for test fitting, filing and polishing, that way the slotted screws only go in once, no buggered up screw slots that way.
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I like it. I think it looks great.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/should-i-discontinue-my-build-log.166615/
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it was already ridiculous on page one
Yes. I can't find steel bar stock any thinner than 1/8 inch locally. I have a TOW toe plate on order; but I'd still to prefer to design and fabricate my own, if I can locate some appropriate bar stock.
Build Log Update
Stain Testing
One member suggested earlier in the thread to seal walnut before staining. I haven't done that to walnut before, so today I prepped another walnut sample. My leading choice is a 50/50 mix of General Finishes water-based dye stains (yellow & vintage cherry), so the sealer I'll test out is their "Seal-A-Cell" product. In the photo below, the sealed side is on the left:
Post-staining was just quick soak, wipe excess and flash dry; no other enhancement done.
IMO, the sealed side has better sheen, as you'd expect, but that's not a deciding factor, since that can be dealt with any number of ways post-staining. The sealed side has better uniformity of color and the unsealed side has better figuring contrast. I'm leaning toward no seal because I want the figuring to stand out, and the sheen and uniformity can both be dealt with later by other methods.
Stain Testing
One member suggested earlier in the thread to seal walnut before staining. I haven't done that to walnut before, so today I prepped another walnut sample. My leading choice is a 50/50 mix of General Finishes water-based dye stains (yellow & vintage cherry), so the sealer I'll test out is their "Seal-A-Cell" product. In the photo below, the sealed side is on the left:
Post-staining was just quick soak, wipe excess and flash dry; no other enhancement done.
IMO, the sealed side has better sheen, as you'd expect, but that's not a deciding factor, since that can be dealt with any number of ways post-staining. The sealed side has better uniformity of color and the unsealed side has better figuring contrast. I'm leaning toward no seal because I want the figuring to stand out, and the sheen and uniformity can both be dealt with later by other methods.
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