My Kibler SMR Build Log

[wiscoaster]

Now your thinking outside the box and I am pretty sure you ain't the only person to ever do something like this.

Thanks. I tried the one hole in the entry pipe tab that way, and unfortunately I don't think it's a viable method. There's a good mark in the right spot, sure, but without a dimple there it's just about impossible to free-hand drill that precisely given tip wobble and walking. And wrt tip wobble, the adapter provided actually makes that MUCH worse because the tip is a lot farther from the chuck. I did get the hole drilled, and all three holes line up, but it took about half an hour. Pretty aggravating.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Drilling them in place is the only way to assure they’re right, and tight.

 

[wiscoaster]

Drilling them in place is the only way to assure they’re right, and tight.

Yes, I couldn't find a drill guide bushing, so I guess I'll have to just bite the bullet and do it the old fashioned way, and carefully. Thanks.

 

[BillyC]

Center punch that dimple and the bit won’t wander.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Yes, I couldn't find a drill guide bushing, so I guess I'll have to just bite the bullet and do it the old fashioned way, and carefully. Thanks.

If you have a drill press you can make a center to center post. I can post some pictures if you're interested in going that route.

 

[COTNTOP]

Post it, everyone will benefit.

 

[Flintandsteel]

In over 100 rifles, I’ve never used a drill guide.

 

[wiscoaster]

Center punch that dimple and the bit won’t wander.

No, the metal is too hard, it won't dimple under a simple pin punch. There is no such item as a 1/16 inch center punch available locally. (I did look) Thanks, anyway, for offering your input.

 

[wiscoaster]

If you have a drill press....

Hah, hah, you kidding?!?! You think I'd go to all this trouble if I had a drill press?!?!

Sorry, but thanks anyway for the offer, I appreciate the support.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

Pinning the Pipes

I got the entry pipe pinned:

... but it wasn't easy. My "brainstorm" marking method resulted in a pin hole at the appropriate depth but very slight offset on the fore and aft axis. I discovered this by painting the punch with Sharpie and marking where it hit the tab when inserted. To get the pin holes to properly lined up, I had to reduce some extra stock wood on the inlet end, and I also reduced the pipe itself on that same end, probably filing / sanding off as much as 1/32 inch. But fits it now does, pinned, and it's snug against the channel, with its tab not hitting the barrel, and the ramrod slides in smoothly. There's now a bit of a gap on the forward inlet end, but nobody's going to see that with the ramrod installed.

I don't recommend my "brainstorm" method.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Post it, everyone will benefit.

 

[wiscoaster]

Wish I had one.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

Metal Finish Testing

The last application of LMF rust browning on the test article was left on overnight (about nine hours), then scaled with #0000 and washed. Its color is now evening out very nicely, but needs to be a little darker to be where I want it:

... but mainly I think this is enough of a test to decide me on using LMF for all the metal, and anyway, I need this test article installed on the rifle for when I begin sanding the stock.

IMO, one needs to be flexible on following the LMF directions, and when they're not producing the desired result, try something a little different. Because in this case, the improvement in my results seemed to occur when I extended the interval and carded with steel wool. One further observation is that I also think it's helpful to degrease the item again after carding and before the next application, regardless of LMF saying it's also a "degreaser". I think a target surface that's not clean causes the solution to distribute itself unevenly. But that's just a guess, so don't quote me.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

Pinning the Pipes

Cleaning out and squaring the ends of the pipe inlets has been a bear, so I made myself a little "sanding block" from the pipe itself, and that's been doing a better job:

On the middle pipe I tried using the "spot" method. I started with the #52 bit, but didn't get a dimple before wood shavings started coming. Then I switched to the #55 bit and got a decent dimple. (Note that this bit is smaller than the pin hole, probably to blame for what followed). I removed the pipe, vised it, and drilled a guide hole through the dimple with the #55 bit easily enough. Except the bit broke just as it punched through. This is the second #55 bit I've broke. I hope the hardware store has more. Maybe I'll just skip the guide hole.

Finishing the hole with the #52 bit was easy. But as last time, the hole produced by spotting was just a hair off on the fore and aft axis. Not much; I could barely distinguish the offset using a bright light behind and magnifying glass in front; but it was enough to prevent the pin from going through. Ah well, this time I know what I can do, and it's easily done. So, the middle pipe now snuggly pinned and tested OK by ramrod insertion.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Use a 1/16" drill bit and 1/16" pins. I hate all that # drill BS.

 

[wiscoaster]

Use a 1/16" drill bit and 1/16" pins. I hate all that # drill BS.

No kidding.

If worst comes to worst I probably don't need to use the Kibler-provided pin stock; there are plenty of gun pins of various sizes in my misc discarded gun parts box, and amongst various parts guns.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

Pipes Pinned

Got all pipes fitted & pinned:

The last pipe (front) was, well, not easy, but easier given my practice on the other two. This inlet was a bit too short, so instead of futzing around with enlarging the inlet, I just filed down the ends of the pipe to make it shorter and fit the existing inlet. Worked just fine. It's pretty surprising how much filing and sanding you have to do with these pipes. I don't remember which pipe it was Jim Kibler said in his video needed extra filing on the stub, but frankly they all needed fairly considerable reduction of their stubs before the pipe hit the wood.

I used the drill through method on this pipe, and I think that's the way to go. Plus I just kept it clamped after drilling and then put the pin right through without any extra futzing around with the vise. (And no broken drill bit). Yes, it's might be a tad loose, but for now a little water in the hole solves that and anyhow, the whole thing is going to swell and require fit tweaking anyway when I refinish it, because I'm pretty much decided on using the water-based dye stain.

Pipes pinned; barrel next!!

 

[mikesto44]

Do it the way you want. But I would have pinned and installed the barrel first. To each their own ....

 

[wiscoaster]

Do it the way you want. But I would have pinned and installed the barrel first. To each their own ....

Actually, that would be out of order per the Kibler videos. See next log entry.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log #20

Setting My Sights

I was going to pin the barrel lugs next, so re-watched (yet again) Kibler's how-to video, and found he installs the sights first. So, here we go, following Kibler's videos, so as to not generate a raft of complaints that I'm doing it out order. But I can't win either way (see above post).

The rear sight was a real bitch*. I did the recommended burr cleanup and entry beveling, but the sight didn't want to engage the dove tail cut all the way through. It kept jumping out of the cut about half way through (and I did try coming in from both sides):

You can see above that the front bevel isn't fully engaging the dove tail. I think the problem was two-fold: first, the sight front bevel was malformed:

And the dovetail cut itself was malformed:

I "fixed" the dovetail by pounding down that metal you see raised on the lower right, and also by filing the entire dovetail ledge a little deeper and tried to file that malformed edge with with a sharper and deeper V-cut, and "fixed" the rear sight by filing its front bevel to be a little sharper (sorry, forgot to take pic, and I'm certainly not going to remove it to take one (!!) :

That seemed to do the trick as I was able to get the sight installed and it seems tight, though I wonder if it's hanging on by about half of its width. Maybe rust browning the barrel will serve to firmly rust that sucker into there:

By contrast, the front sight was a breeze. Just a little light filing to clean the burrs and bevel the edges for entry and she went right in. Well, actually, went right in and then a few minutes later back out and back in again. The first time she was in backwards. And I was thinking, "Is that right?" so went online and checked some pics and then had to go back down and turn her around:

Wouldn't want to be responsible for 23 comments about my sight being backwards, would I?

* thank you forum auto-censor