tgfrench
40 Cal
With the forearm being in a radius don't cut full length and bevel to match stock, rather leave ends square and hidden in stock for smoother removal at a later time.
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My Kibler SMR Build Log
- Thread starter wiscoaster
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I helped a guy fix his holes by using acraglas. Could not see the repair after stock was finished.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Page 20 coming right up!
NRFord
36 Cl.
Probably will be well over 30!Page 20 coming right up!
Thanks!! Yet one more great suggestion I would never have though of. My piano is digital.
No kidding. No disagreement there. Yet ... a workable solution must be found to proceed.
I'm estimating about two-thirds of the way through the project, so you may well be right. If the staff finds enough value here to keep it open that long, anyway.
Build Log Update
Nailing and Hanging
Back from the hardware store with a selection of nails. It looks like a #17 nail would sub nicely for a Kibler pin. The next size larger, #16, is too small to fix the front entry pipe problem I'm trying to solve. I'm sure a #15 would be perfect, but there's none such. From there you jump to the smallest penny nail, which is obviously too fat.
So, it's into the clothes closet with the calipers to find my skinniest coat hanger. It's a hair over 2.0 mm - too fat. So a piece gets clipped off, and after considerable turning in my drill is still too fat, and not uniform to boot. I could probably eventually make this work, and willing to do so if a more practical solution isn't found.
I think I'll try the piano wire next, which means another shopping trip, maybe not today any more, then if the piano wire doesn't play, (pun alert) I'll order the drill bit blanks as posted earlier.
For now, I'm almost run out of energy for the day and would still like to get the lawn mowed, because it really needs it, and it's going to be 95 tomorrow.
Nailing and Hanging
Back from the hardware store with a selection of nails. It looks like a #17 nail would sub nicely for a Kibler pin. The next size larger, #16, is too small to fix the front entry pipe problem I'm trying to solve. I'm sure a #15 would be perfect, but there's none such. From there you jump to the smallest penny nail, which is obviously too fat.
So, it's into the clothes closet with the calipers to find my skinniest coat hanger. It's a hair over 2.0 mm - too fat. So a piece gets clipped off, and after considerable turning in my drill is still too fat, and not uniform to boot. I could probably eventually make this work, and willing to do so if a more practical solution isn't found.
I think I'll try the piano wire next, which means another shopping trip, maybe not today any more, then if the piano wire doesn't play, (pun alert) I'll order the drill bit blanks as posted earlier.
For now, I'm almost run out of energy for the day and would still like to get the lawn mowed, because it really needs it, and it's going to be 95 tomorrow.
Number one page rank (top of first page) on my Google search, without using any search words strictly unique to the postings:
Deleting the semi-unique "log" search term moved us down to number two on the first page, but with 17 unique hits listed on that page.
Yup, I think staff will keep the thread open.
Note: your search results may differ depending on your default search engine and the data your search engine has been capturing wrt your web browsing.
Deleting the semi-unique "log" search term moved us down to number two on the first page, but with 17 unique hits listed on that page.
Yup, I think staff will keep the thread open.
Note: your search results may differ depending on your default search engine and the data your search engine has been capturing wrt your web browsing.
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Build Log #30
Toeing the Line
(part 1)
Having recovered some strength and energy due to happy hour and a meal, and having postponed dealing with the pipe pinning problem, I'm going to begin inletting my toe plate.
>>> (side note: the toe plate metal might look kind of funny; I've been testing LMF on it to see how it takes, and I terminated the test after three applications so I could proceed with this. The answer is: yes, very well indeed, and thanks for asking)
First, I removed the V 1.0 toe plate and the butt plate. I hate to do too much in and out of those butt plate screws on the top of the cheek. You'll have to read many pages back if you don't know why. The existing V1.0 toe plate screw guide holes aren't a problem. They might be used and they might not. No screw holes for right now for toe plate V 2.0:
The new toe plate can't be clamped and so I lay it flat on the butt toe and try to hold it in place as well as possible with masking tape. The plate is positioned primarily where where I want the finial to be:
... and with enough extra over the end to provide for my final choice of butt plate intersection: either abutting or overlapping:
... and frankly, the amount of time I try getting my iPad camera to focus I could probably be done by now.
But ... looking again at the finial, I'm not quite happy with its outline, as it doesn't seem symmetrical enough:
... so I spend some time dressing and addressing that issue and hopefully improving it. Frankly, I'm the only one who will notice, but if I'm not happy, then I'm not happy, and it's my rifle.
It looks better now:
The video I referenced earlier recommends beveling the underside of the inletted area, and as of the moment of this photo I don't really recall the reason, but it seemed good and logical at the time, so now I bevel:
I inscribed a centerline on the stock with my calipers* and now I remount the toeplate along that centerline as previously described:
I take a new Exacto knife with a sharp blade and outline the inlet area, and it becomes clear what the advantage of the bevelled edge is:
That's as far as I'm taking it tonight - I'm really all in for the day - so you'll have to stay tuned to see if I screw up this part or not.
* see elsewhere for technique; not detailed here.
Toeing the Line
(part 1)
Having recovered some strength and energy due to happy hour and a meal, and having postponed dealing with the pipe pinning problem, I'm going to begin inletting my toe plate.
>>> (side note: the toe plate metal might look kind of funny; I've been testing LMF on it to see how it takes, and I terminated the test after three applications so I could proceed with this. The answer is: yes, very well indeed, and thanks for asking)
First, I removed the V 1.0 toe plate and the butt plate. I hate to do too much in and out of those butt plate screws on the top of the cheek. You'll have to read many pages back if you don't know why. The existing V1.0 toe plate screw guide holes aren't a problem. They might be used and they might not. No screw holes for right now for toe plate V 2.0:
The new toe plate can't be clamped and so I lay it flat on the butt toe and try to hold it in place as well as possible with masking tape. The plate is positioned primarily where where I want the finial to be:
... and with enough extra over the end to provide for my final choice of butt plate intersection: either abutting or overlapping:
... and frankly, the amount of time I try getting my iPad camera to focus I could probably be done by now.
But ... looking again at the finial, I'm not quite happy with its outline, as it doesn't seem symmetrical enough:
It looks better now:
The video I referenced earlier recommends beveling the underside of the inletted area, and as of the moment of this photo I don't really recall the reason, but it seemed good and logical at the time, so now I bevel:
I inscribed a centerline on the stock with my calipers* and now I remount the toeplate along that centerline as previously described:
I take a new Exacto knife with a sharp blade and outline the inlet area, and it becomes clear what the advantage of the bevelled edge is:
That's as far as I'm taking it tonight - I'm really all in for the day - so you'll have to stay tuned to see if I screw up this part or not.
* see elsewhere for technique; not detailed here.
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I would fit the toe plate to the buttplate before you inlet it, you are putting the cart before the horse.
I use 5/64th music wire for pins, most Ace Hardwares carry it or can order it for you, it is hardened steel, tough stuff.
https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=music wire
I use 5/64th music wire for pins, most Ace Hardwares carry it or can order it for you, it is hardened steel, tough stuff.
https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=music wire
Last edited:
Build Log #31
Digging a Hole
- or - learning to inlet on a $1300 piece of wood
( part one of two )
... We last left poor befuddled wiscoaster with a toe plate finial outline, and pick up there:
Next I cut a "stop" line to coincide with the straight angles of the finial:
... and began chiselling away that wood:
.. but this happened:
... so I moved the finial forward and inscribed a new stop line:
( Later realized that I should be chiselling away from the stop line, not toward it. )
At this point I also realized a straight cut across like that could much more easy and safely be done with a file, and so I filed it away and down to a rough proper depth:
... and scribed the new finial outline:
... which new location left just enough at the tail:
Beginning to chisel away at the straight part of the inlet looks pretty bad at first:
... which makes me sick, and makes me reconsider my tool usage. The one on the left or the one on the right? They're the same width:
... continued in part two ...
Digging a Hole
- or - learning to inlet on a $1300 piece of wood
( part one of two )
... We last left poor befuddled wiscoaster with a toe plate finial outline, and pick up there:
Next I cut a "stop" line to coincide with the straight angles of the finial:
... and began chiselling away that wood:
.. but this happened:
... so I moved the finial forward and inscribed a new stop line:
( Later realized that I should be chiselling away from the stop line, not toward it. )
At this point I also realized a straight cut across like that could much more easy and safely be done with a file, and so I filed it away and down to a rough proper depth:
... and scribed the new finial outline:
... which new location left just enough at the tail:
Beginning to chisel away at the straight part of the inlet looks pretty bad at first:
... which makes me sick, and makes me reconsider my tool usage. The one on the left or the one on the right? They're the same width:
... continued in part two ...
Build Log #31
Digging a Hole
( part two )
I switched to the one on the left, and things started looking better:
Now approaching proper depth and up to the tricky part:
... so I switched to this tool:
... which has a curve that almost exactly matches:
... and got the outline done:
Working on increasing the depth and cleaning up the bottom and the edges, mostly by scraping:
... and with some marking, more scraping, and a bit of precision filing, the inlet finally gets to a point where the toe plate seems to be happy just sitting in there, not needing to be taped down, almost like that inlet was made just for it:
With a little more fit tweaking I think it will be ready for its screw holes. Or should I first mate it to the butt plate?
Hmmmm ... still deciding ....
Digging a Hole
( part two )
I switched to the one on the left, and things started looking better:
Now approaching proper depth and up to the tricky part:
... so I switched to this tool:
... which has a curve that almost exactly matches:
... and got the outline done:
Working on increasing the depth and cleaning up the bottom and the edges, mostly by scraping:
... and with some marking, more scraping, and a bit of precision filing, the inlet finally gets to a point where the toe plate seems to be happy just sitting in there, not needing to be taped down, almost like that inlet was made just for it:
With a little more fit tweaking I think it will be ready for its screw holes. Or should I first mate it to the butt plate?
Hmmmm ... still deciding ....
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
YIKES! I sure wish you didn't put a toe plate on that gun.
I sure wish you didn't put a toe plate on that gun.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Do you know how to sharpen chisels?
I have a sharpening stone; I did use it, but I'm no expert with it, and even less so with a chisel.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
That was disturbing to look at 
!
Sharp chisels, "Razor" sharp are needed for a good inletting job. Filing a slight "draft" on the edges of the metal helps to get a tight fit.
!Sharp chisels, "Razor" sharp are needed for a good inletting job. Filing a slight "draft" on the edges of the metal helps to get a tight fit.
64Springer
75 Cal.
OP.
Take a break from the build and immerse yourself in the art of sharpening chisels.
Looking at those pics I thought you had a drunken and mildly ******** beaver you didn't share with the group.
The metalwork, on the other hand, looks great.
Take a break from the build and immerse yourself in the art of sharpening chisels.
Looking at those pics I thought you had a drunken and mildly ******** beaver you didn't share with the group.
The metalwork, on the other hand, looks great.
Me too. More so. I was there.That was disturbing to look at
....
I am ... the beaver!!
Hopefully, all the chiseling is over and done with.
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