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My Kibler SMR Build Log

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so that's the approach I'm taking. Position the toe plate against the butt plate first, and then work forward from there.
Not arguing, just commenting that I have found it quite simpler to leave the toe plate long, get the inlet fit correct at the front end, then cut the plate to fit the butt plate. When you start at the butt plate you have one shot to get it right. While it can be done, find it more work to stretch the butt plate if necessary than cutting off the excess square to fit the butt plate. But that’s just me.
 
If it's a kit you want to build, and especially if it's your first build, my opinion is that you don't hesitate to go with a Kibler. Earlier this evening I read a post from another member building another vendor's kit who posted a pic of his problem, and my first thought was "holy cow, that's crude". However, if your goal is just a rifle to shoot, and you don't want the work that goes with a kit, then I suggest you buy a finished production rifle.
I have three production rifles, and five custom built rifles and one original, so I don't need a gun just to shoot. This is something I have been thinking about for a while now, I am pretty good at making things as I make all my own pouches some horns and associated tools needed for the guns as well as mocs and those type of things, made most of the gear for camp equipment just like to be busy. Will look further into it when I get back from Wyoming this October, pretty sure I will do it just don't like jumping into it, like to have my ducks lined up so to speak. Really don't think I will ever buy another production gun. Just something to cross off the bucket list.
 
... I have found it quite simpler to leave the toe plate long, ...
Thanks. My concern was that because of the butt plate extension getting in the way it would cause me to be working at the finial end with the back end offset at an angle away from the stock, rather than flat against it. The guy in the video got his finial outline a little sloppy and I thought maybe that's why. Do you file that extension down flat against the stock first, then? And so the toe plate is flush against the inside of the butt plate, or so the toe plate overlaps the butt plate? TIA...
 
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Build Log Update

Toe Plate Inset Prep

The toe plate I ordered from Track of the Wolf is "out for delivery" today, and I want to at least take a look at it before I do any inletting on the one I made from bar stock. Also considering the post by @SDSmlf and awaiting a response to decide if I change my approach detailed previously. So, further progress on this task is postponed for a day.
 
I made the toeplate for my squirrel rifle, like you I wanted it simple. It looks much better finished and on the rifle than it did when it was bare metal. You can see the thickness; I think it is 1/8" thick.
squirrel toeplate.JPG
 
I always take the buttplate off when I'm installing a toe plate. ...
That makes sense. But remember, I've got those two dicey screw holes on top, so I want to screw those out and back in as little as possible. They're in there nice and snug tight and still holding firm right now. ;)
 
Build Log #29

Sandy Stock

Though I've postponed inletting the toe plate, there's no reason not to start on sanding the stock, if I work on areas not involved with the toe plate.

But first comes some setup prep. I've been wanting to try this material as a flexible scraper:
kibler_164.png


... and that turns out to be this:
kibler_165.png


A good adjustable light source is important, and I can't get my articulating arm lamp to clamp firmly enough (don't want that sucker to come loose and crashing down on my rifle), so I have to take a few moments to screw down the base:
kibler_166.png


Finally ready to start at the muzzle end?? No, not quite yet. Get those overlength pins out of the way. Don't need to punch them out, just move them a little so they're recessed:
kibler_167.png


OK!! Now ready to start. Looking for milling marks. They're really light at this end, almost impossible to photograph:
kibler_168.png


I do some scraping.

Side note: I'm unimpressed with the flexible scraper.

After scraping I also do some light filing with a small old mostly worn-out file, then some very light sanding with a 150 grit sponge. Cleaning off dust, of course. Check and repeat as needed:
kibler_169.png

... and after looking at the pic I see I need to do a little more work with a round file. You see where?

These marks are easier to photograph:
kibler_170.png


Results of same process:
kibler_171.png


These marks are irregular and got more prominent with scraping, so I wrote them off as a feature of the wood:
kibler_172.png

... about which I may be wrong but I'm leery of doing too much scraping on this elegant but thin forearm.

Grain raising and dewhiskering will be another whole process just before staining. I may be using some dampness here or there now, but just to highlight marks, not for that.

This documents what I'll be doing for the entire forearm, so there's no need to post any more about the rest of that in such excrutiating detail. Expect the next update when I get to something more interesting.

I do like working with this walnut. It seems to be more cooperative. The fibers in some wood species fight you too much when you try to cross them. Then again, this is my first walnut piece, so I might change my mind on that.
 
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I have never seen anyone use brass for a scraper.
And, as I noted in the log entry, I was unimpressed with its performance as a scraper. I tried it for its flexibility, but the flexibility turned out to be not much of an advantage, and the brass too soft to retain a sharp enough edge. Perhaps I should have been more clear on those points in my log entry commentary. But, it's noted now here.

What do you make your scrapers from? That would be helpful ...
 
And, as I noted in the log entry, I was unimpressed with its performance as a scraper. I tried it for its flexibility, but the flexibility turned out to be not much of an advantage, and the brass too soft to retain a sharp enough edge. Perhaps I should have been more clear on those points in my log entry commentary. But, it's noted now here.

What do you make your scrapers from? That would be helpful ...
Woodworking supply stores like Woodcraft. Get a burnisher while you're at it. Both are inexpensive. MANY YouTube videos on scraper sharpening - watch a few.
Kevin
 
Woodworking supply stores like Woodcraft. ...
Thanks, I'll give that a try. Though ... the Woodcraft sales people have given me more than one bum steer. They're good sales people, but I think some of them a little short on craft knowledge. Such is the state of hired help these days ...

The main reason I MADE a scraper is precisely because I had watched a video about making a scraper: Jim Kibler's video on that topic. It was interesting to see how he made the edges sharp.
 
Build Log Update

Toe Plate Metal

The toe plate ordered from Track of the Wolf just arrived and I could tell already just from the size of the package it was way too short.

So, at this point, the plan is to fabricate a new toe plate from the remaining bar stock and do the insetting as advised in posts above from other members.

I don't plan to post that redo as a new log entry; it would be redundant.
 
Build Log Update

Toe Plate Metal

The toe plate ordered from Track of the Wolf just arrived and I could tell already just from the size of the package it was way too short.

So, at this point, the plan is to fabricate a new toe plate from the remaining bar stock and do the insetting as advised in posts above from other members.
Did you not print print the image of the toe plate from TOW’s website ‘actual size’ so you could get the dimensions?
 
Did you not print print the image of the toe plate from TOW’s website ‘actual size’ so you could get the dimensions?
No, I forgot. I should have done that before I ordered. I have a bad habit of ordering stuff before doing my full due diligence. Especially when it's only a couple bucks. Plus shipping.
 
Wiscoaster you can make a really good scraper out of hack saw blades. Easy to sharpen and they work real well. Also maybe it's the angle of the photograph but your ramrod pipes look a little high. To me they should be set down a little more. But like I said it could be just the angle of the picture.
 
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