My Kibler SMR Build Log

[OldRust]

Yes, I couldn't find a drill guide bushing, so I guess I'll have to just bite the bullet and do it the old fashioned way, and carefully. Thanks.

If you need an excuse to buy more tools, these are helpful. I never needed much of an excuse <G>

https://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Pun...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699365697&psc=1
These are handy too. made for centering door hinge screw holes.
www.amazon.com/General-Tools-806-Jiffy-Centering/dp/B00004T7OX/ref=asc_df_B00004T7OX?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80401843598485&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001420373767&psc=1

Thanks O,R.

 

[Flintandsteel]

I will “ignore “ you right now.
This is time I’ll never get back.
Some one else said, it’s apparent you are here for attention, not help from those with more experience.

 

[SDSmlf]

If you need an excuse to buy more tools, these are helpful. I never needed much of an excuse <G>

https://www.amazon.com/Transfer-Pun...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699365697&psc=1
Thanks O,R.

I got a few sets of those, and they typically only go down to 3/32” diameter. Would not have helped the OP.

 

[The Appalachian]

This thread is becoming rediculas.... No one is this incompetent.... Unless they just are looking for laughs..

Nah, it's just drawing out all the Karens with excessive estrogen levels........

 

[COTNTOP]

I have several of the tools that center into the taper hole like a tang has to be able to drill a pilot hole. The tool has a drillbit not a punch, have not had time to try it out.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

Toeplate Metal

I'm taking the advice of the member who thought the toeplate was still too thick, and I'm spending some time with file and sandpaper to reduce it further, primarily toward the end, where indeed it was a bit thicker.

After that, ehhhhh, I think it's there. At most a 0.1 mm difference at the tail end where it meets the butt plate. Keep in mind these two pieces need to be brought together, so additional metal working is going to be happening there anyway.

 

[Rich44]

Now it looks too thin.
Sorry, I lost control and just had to say that.

 

[OldRust]

Build Log Update

One More Thing

I actually think it doesn't look all that bad even without doing any inletting:
View attachment 237962
View attachment 237963

I'd just have to match and round the edges where they meet, drill a couple holes, and I'm done.

The only logic that I can apply is that it's your rifle and your choice.

If you are looking for opinions, that just doesn't look proper on a so far beautiful rifle. If I were to see it on a gun shop for sale rack my first thought would be amateurish. If I mis-interpreted and you are not looking for opinions, well apologizes.

Thanks,
O.R.

 

[IanH]

It's a log; a documentary if you will. He posts after he does stuff, showing what he did. It's not a help thread nor an instruction guide. He considers comments but is muddling through this on his own. If you don't like that, don't click on it, or if you lack that sort of self-discipline, put him on "ignore".

I, for one, actually learned something today: Chrome-plated and SS screws can be made to look case-hardened with mere candle flame. Cool. I never in a million years would have thought to try that, and further never would have tried to do it with a candle, didn't think it put out enough BTUs.

 

[wiscoaster]

The only logic that I can apply is that it's your rifle and your choice.

If you are looking for opinions...

Sometimes. Maybe opinions on options would be the more precise answer, where I either don't know the options, or maybe I know the options but don't have the knowledge or experience to know which is best.

Honestly. The informative input I receive here is considered whether it's used or not. I've seen that the people most likely to have griped about me not heeding knowledgeable advice are most likely to have been those that haven't offered any.

 

[wiscoaster]

Now it looks too thin.
Sorry, I lost control and just had to say that.

Hah!! Second good laugh of the day!!

 

[mikesto44]

I doubt anyone reading this is on an ego trip. But their are times that what the O.P. is doing seems a bit interesting to the more experienced builders on here.
When a lot of us started building. We didn't have a mentor, quality kits like these. Most of the parts we used we made. Good bad or otherwise or certainly the dozens of utube video's that Jim has done.
But some of us are learning that good advice is sometimes not appreciated....

 

[Mgbruch]

Yea, I'm done for now. I'll come back in a week to see if this 3 day project is complete yet. I find it fascinating how glibly you go about turning an $1,100 kit into a $500 rifle. And at the same time you eat up the attention like you're starving. Seems like that's more important than a job well done.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Numbers easier to read for an old guy with prescription glasses.

My calipers only read in american.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

My Spock eyebrow is about wore out.

 

[wiscoaster]

.... I've seen that the people most likely to have griped about me not heeding knowledgeable advice are most likely to have been those that haven't offered any.

@Mgbruch that applies to you. I just searched the thread to make sure. Others also; you're only singled out because yours is the most recent and on this page, and typical of the type. In this thread I see complaints only. Build knowledge and advice offered, none. So, bye bye.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log #27

Toe Plate Inset Prep

In the how-to video I referenced earlier in the thread, the guy starts from the head and works toward the tail. I'm thinking that's backwards, as the final position of the finial point depends on where the tail meets and mates with the butt plate:

... so that's the approach I'm taking. Position the toe plate against the butt plate first, and then work forward from there.

The toe of the SMR butt is found not to be straight, as I thought, but it has a gentle curve, just enough to make fitting a challenge:

The stock needs to be cut down to the depth of the plate up to where the finial is inset, so I mark that off:

... and I mark the depth as best I can:

Then I proceed to remove that wood with a <<<GASP!!>>> ...

... RASP!! -- which I'm sure will give the purists fits, but serves well enough to remove large amounts of wood in a short time, if you know what you're doing!!

When that's down to the proper depth, I do some dressing of the tail end of the toe plate so that it mates up with the butt plate. As explained in the video referenced earlier, because they're at an angle, the mating surface also needs to be filed to an angle:

Then, with the tail end of the toe plate in position, I drill the two screw holes with very small holes to take very small screws whose only purpose right now is to hold the plate in place so I can accurately determine the outline for the finial inset:

 

[Brazos John]

I salute you in your effort!
At one time, I paid that detailed attention to detail, but I have learned to accept my limitations, and appreciate the skill that folks show here, including your build.
I wish for you a keen eye and a steady hand in your work.

 

[appalichian hunter]

Look boss the screws the screws, just funnnin, I do believe if you didn't make the toe plate as long as you did the slight curve in the bottom of the stock would have not been so pronounced. I am not a rifle builder though and been seriously considering giving it a go with a Kibler. I have haunted the builders' posts as well as your build and have put together I think a base of knowledge of what to do and what not to do. Awaiting a finished rifle from you to see pics of how it does turns out.

 

[wiscoaster]

... I am not a rifle builder though and been seriously considering giving it a go with a Kibler....

If it's a kit you want to build, and especially if it's your first build, my opinion is that you don't hesitate to go with a Kibler. Earlier this evening I read a post from another member building another vendor's kit who posted a pic of his problem, and my first thought was "holy cow, that's crude". However, if your goal is just a rifle to shoot, and you don't want the work that goes with a kit, then I suggest you buy a finished production rifle.