I still stand behind my comment from last week.
My Kibler SMR Build Log
- Thread starter wiscoaster
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The entire thread is disturbing.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
Time after time, I ask myself if we are being punked.
In twenty pages, most could have finished a slab or even a Pecatonica build.
In twenty pages, most could have finished a slab or even a Pecatonica build.
CuNosecap
45 Cal.
Not saying that hobbyist builds should be about speed. I (as a hobbyist) do these builds for fun, enjoyment, and to learn the art. Not to get to the end quickly.
So Wiscoaster, I hope you are enjoying this. It is your rifle, your build. Enjoy the ride. maybe even step back for a few.
For reference, I have built several Chambers sets and usually take a year. But I don't have a customer waiting, and do it for fun and learning.
So Wiscoaster, I hope you are enjoying this. It is your rifle, your build. Enjoy the ride. maybe even step back for a few.
For reference, I have built several Chambers sets and usually take a year. But I don't have a customer waiting, and do it for fun and learning.
A homemade leather strop is the most important part of chisel sharpening, I have good carving tools and middle of the road ones, my flat chisels are middle of the road. You need some polishing rouge to go on your leather.
With them it is cut a little, strop the edge a little, every 5 minutes or so.
With chippy walnut side to side cutting sometimes works better.
With them it is cut a little, strop the edge a little, every 5 minutes or so.
With chippy walnut side to side cutting sometimes works better.
Thanks, I discovered that the hard way. I've never worked walnut before, but I can tell when wood fibers are fighting me, and that walnut wasn't happy with the way I was going about it. Also, I've never chiselled by finger pressure alone before, so those two big ragged hunks you see out of the finial inlet were the result of doing it the only way I've ever done before: with a small hammer. Not good. Thanks for advising about strop.
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Build Log Update
Pin Wire
Thanks to suggestion by @mikesto44 I stopped at Ace and picked up some of what they label "music wire" in two sizes: 0.062 and next size up 0.078 (basically 1/16 and 5/64), but they're only sold in bundles of three, so I now have:
... lots and lots of pin stock.
As close as I can measure with my calipers, the 0.062 music wire is the same diameter as the Kibler pin stock in my kit, which is too thin to fix the loosey-goosey pipe problem I'm trying to solve. The 0.078 is too thick, so I'm in the process of seeing if it's practicable to reduce it.
Anybody need any extra pin stock? I think I have enough for about 100 rifles. They're only about $3 a bundle. Plus $15 shipping, of course. (J/K - go buy your own).
Edit to add: this "music wire" actually makes great pin stock. It's tough spring steel and blues up really nice.
Pin Wire
Thanks to suggestion by @mikesto44 I stopped at Ace and picked up some of what they label "music wire" in two sizes: 0.062 and next size up 0.078 (basically 1/16 and 5/64), but they're only sold in bundles of three, so I now have:
... lots and lots of pin stock.
As close as I can measure with my calipers, the 0.062 music wire is the same diameter as the Kibler pin stock in my kit, which is too thin to fix the loosey-goosey pipe problem I'm trying to solve. The 0.078 is too thick, so I'm in the process of seeing if it's practicable to reduce it.
Anybody need any extra pin stock? I think I have enough for about 100 rifles. They're only about $3 a bundle. Plus $15 shipping, of course. (J/K - go buy your own).
Edit to add: this "music wire" actually makes great pin stock. It's tough spring steel and blues up really nice.
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If you decide to try this again and want your chisels sharpened, I would be willing to sharpen them to the correct angle for carving. After that if they are "good steel" and you take care of them, you should only need to buff them to keep them sharp. All I would ask is that you cover the shipping both ways.
Thanks, really appreciate the kind & generous offer. It's something I need to learn how to do if I'm to be a DIY'er.
BillyC
Shooting my .45 better every time
I’m not sure but I think Kibler heat treats his wire to make it harder.
64Springer
75 Cal.
Music wire is harder than a diamond in an ice storm.
kansas_volunteer
45 Cal.
I withdrew $500 cash from my bank account today. Should I hang onto it and buy this rifle when done? It would be a way to get a genuine Kibler at below market prices, a real penny pincher's delight.
No kidding, I'm finding that out.
What do you mean by THIS rifle? MY rifle? No way. Not for sale. Never. Not any ANY price.* If you mean a Kibler SMR kit, buy it from Kibler Long Rifles NOW. They're on sale.
* well, OK, maybe if you paid me retail for the rifle and materials, $50 an hour for the build labor, and $100 an hour for the build log creativity, compositon, production and posting, and I might consider it. At present, it would come to about:
rifle kit $1300
misc material $250
build labor $175
build log $8800
total $10,525
More, when it's finished.
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Build Log #32
Toe to Butt
( metal, that it, not an extreme yoga posture )
Due to incredibly competent foresight, planning and execution ...
... oh, who am I kidding?!?! Due to extreme good luck:
... the toe and the butt already almost meet perfectly.
I do some reduction of the butt plate (and yes, MR. DREMEL helped out, and get over it) so as to match the level of the toe plate and round the edges:
... which after some dressing with a file results in this:
Some rounding is also necessary on the flip side of the butt plate to make it equally esthetic front and back:
I still need to drill screw holes in the toe plate, but who screws up drilling holes? No sweat ....
Toe to Butt
( metal, that it, not an extreme yoga posture )
Due to incredibly competent foresight, planning and execution ...
... oh, who am I kidding?!?! Due to extreme good luck:
... the toe and the butt already almost meet perfectly.
I do some reduction of the butt plate (and yes, MR. DREMEL helped out, and get over it) so as to match the level of the toe plate and round the edges:
... which after some dressing with a file results in this:
Some rounding is also necessary on the flip side of the butt plate to make it equally esthetic front and back:
I still need to drill screw holes in the toe plate, but who screws up drilling holes? No sweat ....
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Looking good...sometimes doing things the hard way is the best teacher.
Your doing ok...at first it was scary though...lol
Your doing ok...at first it was scary though...lol
Still is for me, and I think maybe that's something I'm trying to communicate in this thread: the POV of the first-time kit builder, and do it with honesty and a bit of humor, so it's at least slightly entertaining. And who doesn't like looking at pics? Tells a thousand words, right? After someone's built multiple kits (or any new thing) it's easy for the experiences of the first time to fade into the background of one's memory.
Thanks for the kind comments.
Do not drill for screws too far back, or you will have to use very short screws. And there is a butt plate screw not far in.
That's a great point, one not yet mentioned in this thread. The top rear butt plate screw axis and the back top butt plate screw axis intersect. Nobody should think of using longer screws to resolve any screw seating problems, and also of locating new screw holes too close to adjacent edges. The screws might run into each other.
You have mentioned wonky screw holes for the butt plate in your stock a couple times, and I remember you opting to stay with the glue or epoxy instead of properly repairing the holes with wooden dowels, maybe 10 to 15 pages back. It might be time to consider the dowels and avoid the likely pending repair coming down the road.
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