Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I've certainly enjoyed building this and learning a lot.I some how missed this build so I have just enjoyed an hour reading the whole build and learning a lot . Thanks for sharing your work .
I'm glad you enjoyed it. I've certainly enjoyed building this and learning a lot.I some how missed this build so I have just enjoyed an hour reading the whole build and learning a lot . Thanks for sharing your work .
That's a good point. This will be my first carving. I'll bring this up with my teacher and see what he thinks. I'm half tempted to just forget the carving and finish it. I want to shoot this baby!It looks nice. I would be wondering if removing wood to make the carving stand out in bas-relief might slightly flatten the slope of the wrist.
The tang bolt seem a little off center and peened over , or is that my old eyes ? I think since you have done the layout and seem good at this type of work you should do the carving . At least to honor your teacher .I'll be getting some help from my friend and teacher on the carving next week so we'll see what he suggests. The original I'm basing this on looks like relief to me. What do you think?
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Me too I need him!Well I hope he feels well soon!
Glad you found it!Wonderful job, Hatchet-Jack. I stumbled upon your thread tonight and thoroughly enjoyed your journey. Thanks for taking time to photograph and post your progress.
I have in the past just filed a notch in the front lock bolt enough so that the ramrod cleared. I then placed a file mark on the bolt head on the notch side to reassemble the same way every time. Worked for over 40 years on my 1728 French musket!Worked on the ramrod today. The one that came with the kit is about 1/2" thick!
About 1/16" of the front lock bolt was in the channel blocking the ramrod. I made a scraper by hammering the end of a piece of round stock to give it an edge. I scraped the ramrod channel out to give it enough clearance so the ramrod will slip by it. My plan B would be to take the diameter of the bolt down but this worked so no need.
I then used a pair of sheet metal shears in a vise to plane the ramrod down to the right diameter. It fits well.
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I am not sure what you call this British style triggerguard finial , maybe a flame, or urn. Acorn designs were used, but a little later in the 18th Century.I got a few hours in today working on inletting the trigger guard. The acorn finial is a bit tricky but it's getting there. It won't be perfect but I'm learning a lot.
I've been researching this Fowler trying to decide what kind of carving I want to do. Chambers calls it a PA Fowler. I found several original guns that have the same hardware in the excellent book "Flintlock Fowlers the first guns made in America" by Tom Grinslade. These were what he calls "British Style Fowlers" made in the Colonies. The early Acorn Finial on the trigger Guard, the round faces British Lock, the Butt Plate style etc. match the Chambers hardware. These were made in New York and Grinslade has 3 that were made in Pennsylvania. They typically had a shell pattern carving around the barrel tang, rear ramrod pipe or trigger guard. I also see examples with a thumb piece. Also some simple engraving on the brass and the lock
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My book Flintlock Fowlers by Tom Grinslade shows an original that looks identical to the Chambers finial on a 1760 Fowler. He says the English gun makers referred to this as the first form of the acorn finial. He also calls it a modified acanthus. Either way it was a pain to inlet.I am not sure what you call this British style triggerguard finial , maybe a flame, or urn. Acorn designs were used, but a little later in the 18th Century.
Very nice work, however!
Excellent oreclan! I'm glad you found some inspiration and please post your progress.I just finished going through all your posts and am inspired to finish an "in the white" Larry Williams fowler that I have.
Years ago I found a fowler relic in an antique shop. it was broken off at the rear lock bolt hole. It included the butt plate. So I had an idea what the side plate and back of the triggerguard looked like. The buttplate tang was not symmetrical ! I ordered the fowler in order to make a similar one. I lost steam on the buttplate install. Now I am enthused and motivated from your efforts!
So true PathfinderNC! I really value his feedback. It almost killed me to rework it but I'm so glad I did now.That looks really great! We are really blessed to have Dave here to provide professional advise give direction as well as show us how to do it. And that you made the commitment to re-work what had been already “finished” is super. (I recently did the same thing!) Your build is fun to watch
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