Priming powder for flintlock

[Celt5494]

In my opinion you are just setting yourself up for trouble using Pyrodex in your Flintlock. Besides further complicating things with figuring out what black to prime with. It will probably become very tiring and frustrating quickly. If it were me just stick to black for the main charge and the prime charge. 2f or 3f will work just fine and unless you are really putting some serious work in with that flintlock you probably will never notice the difference between the two.

 

[Flint1]

Back in 1991 when I bought my first flintlock I had been using Pyrodex P in my revolver and RS in my cap rifle. I called Hodgdon and talked with the guy who developed Pyrodex and asked him if I could use P as a priming powder in a flintlock (I believe he was later killed in an explosion at their plant). He told me not only could I not use the P as a priming powder, but I could not use RS as the main charge unless I used a small amount of real black powder as a starting charge with Pyrodex loaded on top. He said some people were trying that and it would burn a little cleaner. The reason he gave was that the Pyrodex had a higher flash point than real black and the flintlock generally was not hot enough to reliably ignite Pyrodex. That was from the guy who invented Pyrodex.

 

[J.D.]

IMHO, pyrodex is not good for any BP gun. Several friends experience with Pyrodex resulted in bad rust in the bores, even though they cleaned thoroughly and were maintained between shooting sessions. The rust went away shortly after switching to black powder.

 

[formernuke]

I've decided to use 2f powder instead of pyrodex, still wondering to use for the priming pan though.

 

[Bearkiller]

2f will work just fine in the pan. Just don't use a lot! It may take a little experimentation for the amount needed. Start small.

 

[kyron4]

I've decided to use 2f powder instead of pyrodex, still wondering to use for the priming pan though.

Any black powder will work in the pan. Tests have been done with high speed equipment and the difference is below human perception for 2F, 3F ,and 4F . 4F in a primer flask it what most use and it works well for that purpose, a pound of 4F will last longer than you.

After I got my flintlock finished all I had (or could get at the time) was 2F and it worked fine in the pan and as a main charge. I now use 3F as my main charge and 4F in the pan, unless I'm hunting then it's 3F in the pan as it's less effected by damp weather conditions.

Short anwser, as long as it's real black powder it will work as intended.

 

[Indy Durtdigger]

A-lot of these guys forget we don't all live somewhere that facilitates the easy access to a substance classified as an explosive. If you don't have ready access to real BP but can get the 2F and a ready supply Pyro.
A duplex with a starter charge of 10 gr or so of BP will work just fine for the main charge albeit an added step and mild pain. And the 2F will work swimmingly for the prime as others have noted.
However, if you can lay in a ready supply just forget the Pyro altogether or save it for the cap locks.

 

[Rebel bull]

A-lot of these guys forget we don't all live somewhere that facilitates the easy access to a substance classified as an explosive. If you don't have ready access to real BP but can get the 2F and a ready supply Pyro.
A duplex with a starter charge of 10 gr or so of BP will work just fine for the main charge albeit an added step and mild pain. And the 2F will work swimmingly for the prime as others have noted.
However, if you can lay in a ready supply just forget the Pyro altogether or save it for the cap locks.

no sir your comment that not everybody has access to real powder is bulk the problem is that the ones that bi**h about want/expect to be able to walk into their local shop and buy 1tin of caps, 1 pound of powder, and 1pack of patches. oh and they expect to be able to buy the powder in all of the various granulations. There is to many suppliers to list that are reputable to purchase powder, caps, and patches, and balls from. they will mix and match granulations in the box. the caps have to be sent separate but very affordable in my opinion. the only ones who may have a problem are those who live in Hawaii or any where they don't have truck delivery available sooooo if you get fedex you can get powder ! oh it is generally cheaper then the substitutes imho

 

[ScottK]

As someone who lives in a very tough state for firearms….

It may suck at the time, but I strongly recommend that you bite the bullet and place a bulk powder order with Grafs or similar. You can get free hazmat and be all in at less than $200 delivered for 5 to 7 pounds of powder, depending on what you use. If you are into flintlocks make one of those bottles FFFF for an almost forever supply.

I can’t tell you how happy I am that I did this. The one place here that sometimes has real black is an hour round trip. The guy bent me over the counter for over $70 for a pound of Schuetzen. Never again.

If you are shooting modern inlines, I get the argument for subs vs paying $90 for 8oz of BH209, but for what we use here, the real BP performs better and is actually less expensive than the subs if you put some forethought into the purchase.

Just my two cents as someone who has been through this learning curve already.

 

[JDBraddy]

Had been using FFFg till about six months ago, bought a pound of Nul-B and highly recommended it.

 

[cebusey]

no sir your comment that not everybody has access to real powder is bulk the problem is that the ones that bi**h about want/expect to be able to walk into their local shop and buy 1tin of caps, 1 pound of powder, and 1pack of patches. oh and they expect to be able to buy the powder in all of the various granulations. There is to many suppliers to list that are reputable to purchase powder, caps, and patches, and balls from. they will mix and match granulations in the box. the caps have to be sent separate but very affordable in my opinion. the only ones who may have a problem are those who live in Hawaii or any where they don't have truck delivery available sooooo if you get fedex you can get powder ! oh it is generally cheaper then the substitutes imho

no sir your comment that not everybody has access to real powder is bulk the problem is that the ones that bi**h about want/expect to be able to walk into their local shop and buy 1tin of caps, 1 pound of powder, and 1pack of patches. oh and they expect to be able to buy the powder in all of the various granulations. There is to many suppliers to list that are reputable to purchase powder, caps, and patches, and balls from. they will mix and match granulations in the box. the caps have to be sent separate but very affordable in my opinion. the only ones who may have a problem are those who live in Hawaii or any where they don't have truck delivery available sooooo if you get fedex you can get powder ! oh it is generally cheaper then the substitutes imho

There are states like the peoples repulik of Maryland that so severely restrict ALL powder so that anything over 5lbs icluding the weight of caps and primers can get you in deep trouble. SO it is not as simple as whether you get fedex delivery or not. Consider yourself fortunate if you can order bulk and stay within the law.

 

[MSW]

I plan on using pyrodex rs for my main powder. Problem is I can't get 4f black powder for the priming pan. Will pyrodex p work just as well?

short answer: no
pyrodex has a much higher flash point and simply will not work (or, rather will not work reliable) in a flint system.

Don't mean to rain on your parade ... i've tried it and it just flat won't go - a big dissapointment. Stick with real black powder and you'll do much better