Rust In The Bore

[kelljp]

After firing, run pine sol soaked patches thru barrel until clean, run a dry patch then a gun oil patch. If you do this religiously when you shot, rusting problems aren't a concern. Just takes discipline.

 

[gustrolland]

I have different thoughts on the matter.

I don't think it's so much the steel as it is the water. Water is not the same everywhere. Some is chlorinated, some is not. Some is hard, some is soft. Some has iron or sulphur or who knows what in it. What is in the water may be the key as to flash rust or not.

I own or have owned Traditions, Pedersoli, Investarm, Colerain, T/C, Douglas, and Rice barrels and all have flash rusted with my water when hot. My water is full of minerals and chlorinated. A house I lived in years ago was chlorinated but had very little in the way of minerals. I don't remember much in the way of flash rust.

I believe its the chlorine in the city water thats not helping, chlorine is not good on iron if I'm not mistaken

 

[Tb54]

My $.02.
There’s no chlorine in boiled water. Cl2 doesn’t stay in solution well, and even less as the water temperature rises.

The higher the carbon content in steel, the easier it oxidizes.

Hot steel will oxidize easier than cold steel.

Oiling before completely dry can trap water on the steel, under a film of oil, where the O2 in the water can work on the steel.

I use alcohol when drying the bbl. sometimes I use it on the gun too.

 

[user 34300]

I can't ever recall having rust in any of my ML, or modern guns that used corrosive primers. I use lots of water. When I can I use a hose and brass tube to flood the bore with warm water for several minutes. I dry with alcohol and compressed air. I then oil with Fluid Film, cosmoline, or light oil. I live on the west coast, it is cool and not humid. Watch out for pyrodex and substitutes that use perchlorates.

 

[Carbon 6]

My $.02.
There’s no chlorine in boiled water. Cl2 doesn’t stay in solution well, and even less as the water temperature rises.

Chlorine dissipates when boiled, but chlorides concentrate when boiled. Chloride easily forms into chloride salts like sodium chloride, potassium chloride and calcium chloride. All of which accelerate rusting.
Chlorides are often found in well water and can also be found in surface water.

 

[Marshhawk]

Lordy, I hate to even ask, but when y'all mention alcohol are you talking about isopropyl or denatured alcohol or does it matter which?
Thanks!

 

[Carbon 6]

Lordy, I hate to even ask, but when y'all mention alcohol are you talking about isopropyl or denatured alcohol or does it matter which?
Thanks!

Denatured preferred, or methanol. Isopropyl usually contains water (up to 30%) it doesn't make sense to add water when you are trying to remove it. The exception would be gas line antifreeze (100% isopropyl) .

 

[fillwa]

Here is what I use:
Cleaner - Dawn dish soap and cold water, bore brush short strokes then dump out repeat a few times
Rinse - Cold water, patch short strokes and dump out repeat a few times until clean.
Dry - Alcohol, a few patches then a few dry ones.
Rust prevention - Mineral Oil (Johnson's Baby Oil) lightly applied to patch.

 

[Frontier's]

Lordy, I hate to even ask, but when y'all mention alcohol are you talking about isopropyl or denatured alcohol or does it matter which?
Thanks!

Both will work.

 

[Griz44Mag]

Most of the time I use MAP - (Murphys, Alcohol and Peroxide) to wipe the bores and breech out.
I have found no issues with rust of any kind doing this.
After cleaning, I will flood the breech and coat the bore using solution of Miracle Red, Colemans and Mineral spirits and then chase that with a bore wipe down of Mink on a patch.
On regular wipe down maintenance I use a mink patch.

 

[smo]

Personally I have stopped using water and use Hornady One shot. I have found it to be excellent and that missed fouling converts to a white powdery substance in a few days.
I used to clean with water and do it again over the next 2 days to ensure no rust. Now I do it once and check in a few days. Slack aye?

I’ve been using One Shot for a few years now.

My supply has gotten low so I decided too reorder..

Hornadys says it was discontinued 2 years ago, at least the muzzleloader cleaner/lube version.

 

[Daryl Crawford]

I've found that I pull lead fouling out, not necessarily rust, as the gun sits. I use Ballistol and it should reduce lead fouling . That said I'm shooting a fowling piece with shot often. Really, I only posted because I wanted to use both fouling and fowling in the same sentence : )

 

[LawrenceA]

I’ve been using One Shot for a few years now.

My supply has gotten low so I decided too reorder..

Hornadys says it was discontinued 2 years ago, at least the muzzleloader cleaner/lube version.

Bugger!

 

[Ben Meyer]

I have an old Dixie TN Mtn rifle and a Investarms Hawken. The DGW has been shot considerably more. I clean them both the exact same way, with the same products. After hot, soapy water, and dry patches til they're spotless, i run a patch saturated with Barricade down and up, wait 5 min, and do it again.

I could run a dry patch down the DGW right now and it would be spotless. But the Investarms Hawken would have rust lines where the patch touches the rifling. Ive chalked it up to either the DGW is better "seasoned," if thats actually even a thing, or the barrel steel is just different. Obviously, I believe some guns rust more/less than others, because mine do.

 

[Marshhawk]

Uh, we're not talking One Shot Case Lube are we? (long-time centerfire reloader)

 

[Bent Sight]

I am not seeing any difference between my US made rifle and my Italian made rifles. I clean and lubricate them all the same way.

 

[smo]

Uh, we're not talking One Shot Case Lube are we? (long-time centerfire reloader)

No ...I said lube, but it’s a cleaner/ protectant.
Although I used it for a patch lube......

 

[Bledfor Days]

I can't ever recall having rust in any of my ML, or modern guns that used corrosive primers. I use lots of water. When I can I use a hose and brass tube to flood the bore with warm water for several minutes. I dry with alcohol and compressed air. I then oil with Fluid Film, cosmoline, or light oil. I live on the west coast, it is cool and not humid. Watch out for pyrodex and substitutes that use perchlorates.

Interesting that you mentioned Fluid Film. I use it on my rigging that I chain down heavy equipment on my lowbed. I've never considered using it on my firearms. I'm going to give it a try after my shoot tomorrow.

 

[Carbon 6]

Interesting that you mentioned Fluid Film.

I use it sometimes depending on what my needs are. Good stuff.

 

[Josephg]

Last time I poured hot water down a bore for cleaning was 1974. I clean my bores with a wet patch, several wet patches, then dry patches till it's dry, then a liberal dose of Hoppes. I pull the nipple and put several drops of Hoppes down the breech. Clean the nipple and fence then screw the nipple back in. Set the hammer on a dry patch and put it away. Here is a patch I just used to check a rifle that has not been fired for over seven years. Been in the gun rack all the time. Here's the patch and rifle. Fairly expensive rifle so I do try to take care of it.