So how do get all the salts out?
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Rust protection.
- Thread starter Trigger
- Start date
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WATER
OK.
Hot water dissolves salts quicker and more thorough but heyho if it touches a nerve....
After a good and thorough cleaning, I fill all of my bores with molten beeswax to the muzzle. No air, no rust, right? A solid blast from the air nozzle to the fire hole pushes it all out like a missile. You gotta have a fast twist, though, if you want to stabilize it.
CRC power lube or RIG
Yeah, I used hot water until about 2000, kept getting flash rusting. I switched to cool water and never had that problem again.
smoothshooter
50 Cal.
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I normally use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol in the bore and around the lock with good results. After the alcohol evaporates I follow up with diluted Ballistol or Break Free or Hoppe’s #9.
I use plain water on occasion, but not very often. During a shooting session cotton patches soaked with saliva are quick and easy, and work superbly.
RIG, it is Rust Inhibiting Grease
Flash rusting is a non issue compared to accidentally leaving some salts in there but if your good.
Recently I've taken to not even cleaning at all but I do keep the fouled gun warm and dry and it's shot using my lube.
Well I don’t have either problem now.
Greenjoytj
54 Cal.
Hot water to accelerate the dissolving of any salts.
Then cold water to cool the metal to slow the chemical reaction that is flash rusting.
Cold slow chemical reactions, heat speeds them up.
Patch out to dry the bulk of the water
Then swab with 99% alcohol to absorb any water left in micro scratches in the metal.
It must be 99% so you only adding 1% water.
The patch dry out the alcohol.
Oil with Synthetic it the best as it has an affinity for metal it likes to stick to metal.
But any oil will do like mineral oil AKA Ballistol
Use EEZOX it is a powerful rust proofer true. But not the best lubricant in my opinion.
Rig grease or Cosmoline for long term storage solution.
Then cold water to cool the metal to slow the chemical reaction that is flash rusting.
Cold slow chemical reactions, heat speeds them up.
Patch out to dry the bulk of the water
Then swab with 99% alcohol to absorb any water left in micro scratches in the metal.
It must be 99% so you only adding 1% water.
The patch dry out the alcohol.
Oil with Synthetic it the best as it has an affinity for metal it likes to stick to metal.
But any oil will do like mineral oil AKA Ballistol
Use EEZOX it is a powerful rust proofer true. But not the best lubricant in my opinion.
Rig grease or Cosmoline for long term storage solution.
If I had to do that I'd pack up muzzleloading.
Flash rusting as ye call it is not a problem and no oil from the ground goes anywhere near a gun of mine that uses black powder.
Don't any of you wonder how they did it half way up a frozen mountain?
Flash rusting as ye call it is not a problem and no oil from the ground goes anywhere near a gun of mine that uses black powder.
Don't any of you wonder how they did it half way up a frozen mountain?
When I started shooting black powder in the late 60's, I was told (by people that presumably knew what they were talking about) that you cleaned with boiling water with a touch of soap. I never experienced flash rusting. I still use this method from time to time and haven't seen any flash rust in my rifles. Instead of soap, I put a touch of Ballistol on a wet patch as I swab the barrel. Maybe that helps?
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
That sounds like a very good way to protect the barrel.
you know I try to be silly and sometimes it backfires. Funny you say that. After I posted that, I thought to myself, you know, if one wished to store a muzzleloader indefinitely, that would be the way to do it. Plug the nipple and fill it to the brim with whatever @Britsmoothy is using. Keep it in a cool place and that bore is frozen in time.
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