Scraping up some advice

[Rangefogger]

Well guys, I have decided to step even a bit further into the dark side, and give scraping a try over sanding on my upcoming flint rifle build. I am looking for any advice on all things scrapers, and scraping. What do you who scrapeth, scrape with? what is your method? What should I avoid? Any pictures would be well appreciated as well, thanks!

 

[SOLANCO]

Gentleman I knew, now passed, used pieces of glass. Cheap. Recyclable.
He was very definitely "old school". He also used glass to smooth horns.

 

[necchi]

and give scraping a try over sanding on my upcoming flint rifle build.

That's cool. In all honesty there's probably only 2 or 3 builders left here that can share useful information of the technique.
To help them, what is it that interests you about a scrape finish? Honest?
What is it that you seek from the process, and/or, expected result from executing that process to your rifle?
I ask in all honesty, it's hard now-a-days what with all the "you-tube" ex-sperts, and rantings from the same about the qualities of past practice and how great it is,,
Scraping lends a texture, that modern rifles don't have, and many "kit's" don't recommend

 

[rich pierce]

Scraping is going to give a different look when finishing, but I also use scraping for shaping. I have concave and convex scrapers of different radius. Old handsaws from garage or estate sales are a good source of steel, just a little on the thin side.

Getting a forearm really rounded or egg shaped is not easy. Everyone has their technique for how to get it so it is close. I finish the job using a concave scraper close to, but slightly larger in radius. Same at the wrist. I use a convex scraper to scoop a cheekpiece when that is the right thing to do.

I go from rasping to filing (yes, use a file on wood) to scraping. Then carving and more scraping. Final scraping can be done using microscope slides off eBay or wherever. Make a piece of wood wide as the slide and 5/8” thick and an inch and a half tall and saw a groove in it to support 80% of the slide. This keeps them from breaking all the time.

I’ve heard of using broken glass but it never works for me.

Dressing a scraper is another story. Jim Kibler has a video on it. Look it up.

 

[1950DAVE]

SMO's uncle was known to fashion some of the best gunstocks in our area 50 yrs or so ago. He used glass extensively. I believe he used broken bottles with curved surfaces. Maybe SMO will chime in and tell you more.

 

[Codger Craig Wilcox]

Try to scrape with the grain where possible. I use metal scrapers, and they last a good while before they need to be re-set. Most of mine are fairly small and flat, although I do have some convex and concave shapes.
Practice on some scraps - you'll find that varying the pressure also varies how much you take off.

 

[64Springer]

Old hacksaw blades for exterior work.

Steel tubing for channels.

 

[Rangefogger]

That's cool. In all honesty there's probably only 2 or 3 builders left here that can share useful information of the technique.
To help them, what is it that interests you about a scrape finish? Honest?
What is it that you seek from the process, and/or, expected result from executing that process to your rifle?
I ask in all honesty, it's hard now-a-days what with all the "you-tube" ex-sperts, and rantings from the same about the qualities of past practice and how great it is,,
Scraping lends a texture, that modern rifles don't have, and many "kit's" don't recommend

Well after some experimenting on a practice stock, I noticed the sanded area of my Iron Nitrate test looked very dull compared to non sanded areas. I’m thinking if I were to use scrapers to finish I would really be able to reveal the grain to its full potential.

The encircled area is sanded, the outer areas are not.

 

[Rangefogger]

Scraping lends a texture, that modern rifles don't have, and many "kit's" don't recommend

What kind of texture is it?

 

[Flintandsteel]

It all depends on the wood you’re using. Some will scrape beautifully, some won’t.
I prefer scraping when I can. My mentor says it gives a more organic feel to the wood. Less whiskering, takes stain better, grain is open, not pressed down.
Thinner metal gives finer results. Stew-Mac, a luthier supplier, has some great thin ones for finishing.

 

[Red Owl]

If the rings are hard and soft on the wood you can dig out more in the soft sections which can create a corduroy effect. As others, I scrape to mostly reduce wood and then go to sandpaper. They still scrapers at specialty tool sources.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Brownells has 3 of them that I've found very useful; a green flat one, a red large radius convex one, and a blue smaller radius convex one. All are very useful and seem to hold an edge very well. Of course, you can make your own easily enough, (and you will need others) but I found the commercial ones to be just right for most of what I needed.

You're quite right in the "corduroy effect" caused when scraping with the grain. You need to go cross-grain to minimize it happening. Bigger and. faster removals--go with the grain, but finish it off by going across.

 

[springfield art]

Gentleman I knew, now passed, used pieces of glass. Cheap. Recyclable.
He was very definitely "old school". He also used glass to smooth horns.

I've read that, too. Talk about an easily obtainable, cheap, tool, that has to take the cake!

 

[Flintandsteel]

Glass will not give the smooth ,even surface that metal will On figured wood.
Heres a few I use. The ones on the left are thicker for shaping, and stock removal, the right for finishing, carpet knife blades after that.

 

[Rangefogger]

Glass will not give the smooth ,even surface that metal will On figured wood.
Heres a few I use. The ones on the left are thicker for shaping, and stock removal, the right for finishing, carpet knife blades after that.View attachment 206095

That’s the type of kit I want to put together. I’ve seen the larger ones on the left and plan on getting those. who would you recommend I get them from? As for the smaller finishing scrapers on the right, where can I find those? How do you sharpen these? Thank you!

 

[JohnBHM]

Many years ago I worked with a gentleman who had been a competitive black powder shooter. After we had become friends he took me into a room in his house that was full of his awards and trophies and several beautiful muzzle loaders that he had built. At the time I knew nothing about them and couldn't tell you today if they were flint or percussion but I did recognize the gorgeous engraving and carving. Working with Fred he frequently wood mention techniques he had used when building his guns and I remember telling me that he used glass to get the best finish.

 

[longcruise]

I've read that, too. Talk about an easily obtainable, cheap, tool, that has to take the cake!

I've been making them for the past few hours out of beer bottles. It's not easy getting them to break out the way they should. I keep draining beer bottles and it just gets harder.

 

[Kevin Houlihan]

That’s the type of kit I want to put together. I’ve seen the larger ones on the left and plan on getting those. who would you recommend I get them from? As for the smaller finishing scrapers on the right, where can I find those? How do you sharpen these? Thank you!

You can find scrapers of different sizes at Woodcraft and other woodworking supply stores. Jim Kibler has a good scraper sharpening video. YouTube has dozens of sharpening videos. You'll need a file, a stone and a burnisher for turning the edge.
Good luck,
Kevin

 

[Crow#21957]

Ok here is the set of 4 I picket up as a set at Woodcraft. They were not burnished on all sides. Some were ,,not all. It's very easy to burnish these.I been using the pointy end handle of a file. Handle end no where else.
They really come in handy but not a sending total replacement. I need to get some more really small ones with handles.

 

[oldwood]

50 + yrs. ago , I bought scrapers from Frank Mittimeier's Gunsmithing Supply, Bronx ,N.Y. ( out of business). The scrapers are the classic curved , straight , and goose neck tools. They feel good using them on areas where cabinet rasps have done all possible , and need a follow-up on unusual curved surfaces. I'm shaping the hardest walnut burl butt stock , I've ever seen , using a die grinder tipped with a 5/8" by 1 3/4 " length round nose , coarse rasp. After doing the area around the cheek rest w/the die grinder rasp , the curves encountered cleaned up nicely using the goose neck scraper. Perfect combination for this job , where a #49 Nicholson cabinet rasp only scratches the burl , instead of cutting it. As far as sharpening a scraper , One of the three band sanders in the shop is a vertical 1" by 42" band with a worn 600 grit belt . Sharpening any scraper is a snap , using the belt , and it's vertical backer. If the scraper doesn't cut like it should ,another pass on the 600 grit belt fixes it. ............ oldwood