Sharps failures. Suggestions?

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I hit the range today with my IAB Sharps. It was impromptu so I planned to loose load and just tune myself up at 50 yards. It was clean and everything seemed to be operating as it should. I blew through the channel to assure myself it wasn't blocked (air came right out where it should) and then snapped a cap before loading.

Bullet pressed in with a dowel, 50 grains measured on top, closed the action, capped, aimed and snap. No fire. Another musket cap, snap, no fire. Unloaded, cleaned, did it all again, and the same blasted result. The caps themselves seemed underwhelming to me, just a little pop, so maybe that's something to do with it. CCI winged caps. The whole thing was just so frustrating I packed it up and played with my pal's plastic unmentionable for the rest of the morning.

I have the entire block soaking in Kroil right now so I can try to get the clean-out screw loose and to hopefully help clean up whatever's in the channel. Tomorrow I'll use some compressed air on the channel too, if need be.

This isn't the first time I've had this sort of problem. (I really wished I had a rock lock with me. Those I can keep working every time). Any thoughts, suggestions, observations, undeserved allegations? I've had good sessions with this in the past, I'm sure, and I do keep my guns very clean. I'm frustrated and could use some guidance.

Thanks in advance.
 
When I pop a cap to clear the breech the blast that comes out the muzzle is enough to move soil. (Our soil here is more like coarse sand) Generally I pop two and if I don’t see that effect on the soil I pop another. My Sharps are two Shilohs and one original each giving the same results. Does yours do this as well?
 
I was at a range today (all wood and concrete where I'm allowed to handle the gun), so I can't really say. My guess would be no, I seriously doubt it would move soil.
 
I have equal success with CCI, RWS and old Navy Arms caps. Maybe you could drop something on the ground to point your barrel at then retrieve it after seeing how it moves.
 
When making sure the fire channel is clear with caps I run a jag down the bore with a clean patch on it. When you remove that patch you will see clear evidence on it that the fire channel is clear.

Just a guess, but maybe too much oil used after cleaning? Try storing the gun muzzle down for a few days after cleaning and oiling so it drains away from the fire channel. Also consider flushing the bore with a solvent like isopropyl alcohol well before you load, possibly before you head to the range or the day before you plan to shoot.

Sounds like whatever it is you are doing isn’t working to well. Time to change things up a bit.
 
I'll give that advice a try, thanks to both of you. The funny thing is that I've been shooting, mostly flint but I've got plenty of percussion, since the mid 70's and almost never have trouble. This is the only gun I've got that is problematic.
 
If no dirt how about a simple cleaning patch put down the muzzle with a finger? Not far down and see how far the cap blows it out?
 
My assumption was that something was partially blocking the channel, but is it possible I've got a tin of bad caps? It would be a first for me over a long time shooting, but does that happen? They seemed lackluster, just a tiny little pop.
 
My assumption was that something was partially blocking the channel, but is it possible I've got a tin of bad caps? It would be a first for me over a long time shooting, but does that happen? They seemed lackluster, just a tiny little pop.
Reinactor caps by chance? Do you have another container of caps from a different lot?
 
I wasn't even aware there's such a thing, to be honest. I've still got quite a few #10 & #11 caps for my revolvers, but this is the only tin of musket caps I could find, stuffed in a bag I haven't visited for a while (as I say, I usually go for one of my rock locks). There's no one locally who sells black powder stuff, so I'll have to order some caps online. As someone wrote elsewhere, this is getting to be a pretty expensive hobby.
 
Ran into this problem years ago when reenacting. After much frustration, the way the problem was effectively dealt with was to:
  1. remove the nipple and clean out screws -those screws should not be so tight or treated with LocTite or similar to require an overnight soak in anything,
  2. get a drill bit that snugly fits the flash channels, hold the bit with your fingers and chase or rotate it with finger pressure only!. Do that several times, use a straw to blow through the channels to remove the loosened crud,
  3. Get an airline sized bottle of cheap rot gut whiskey and pout some in the nipple opening, let a drop or two drip from flash hole while blocking the clean out openings, fingers work well here.
You might repeat this several times. Once you've done this a couple of times, run a pipe cleaner through the channels. When it comes out clean no crud, detritus or staining you're ready to test again. Just pop a couple of caps in the house against a paper towel or plate that has a handful of loose dirt on it. If the dirt moves, you're ready for field testing. If not repeat the the above steps until things work as they should. You might have to soak the flash channels over night and/or dip the pipe cleaner in the whiskey to get the channels crud free. I had to do both!
Remember that solvents leave a residue behind that will become obstructions whe exposed to heat, fire and pressure. The idea for the whiskey as solvent is from the 1864 Army Ordinance Manual. IT WORKS!!
 
When the Paper ctg. Sharps rifles first were introduced in the 1980's, I had intentions of hunting the Pa. deer seasons. On the range , the Sharps was amazing. Very accurate , fired reliably , good handling , and operationally sound. Never attempted to use the rifle in foul weather , only on fall days w/ sunshine , and or , cloudy cool weather. My problem , and could have been , my problem , something I was doing to cause end of hunting day miss fires , and hang fires. Tried to remidy the hang fires , etc. , w/little success , and bottom line , didn't want to risk loosing a nice Pa. buck due to firing reliability. Sold the rifle to a guy that really wanted it.
 
Caps are CCI four wing. Wow, learn something new after all these years. Suggestions on better caps? And for Walks with Wheels, I never pass up a good excuse to get a bottle of whiskey! I will absolutely try that.

Y'all have been very helpful, and I thank you for it. I'll report back how it goes if you're interested.
 
I hit the range today with my IAB Sharps. It was impromptu so I planned to loose load and just tune myself up at 50 yards. It was clean and everything seemed to be operating as it should. I blew through the channel to assure myself it wasn't blocked (air came right out where it should) and then snapped a cap before loading.

Bullet pressed in with a dowel, 50 grains measured on top, closed the action, capped, aimed and snap. No fire. Another musket cap, snap, no fire. Unloaded, cleaned, did it all again, and the same blasted result. The caps themselves seemed underwhelming to me, just a little pop, so maybe that's something to do with it. CCI winged caps. The whole thing was just so frustrating I packed it up and played with my pal's plastic unmentionable for the rest of the morning.

I have the entire block soaking in Kroil right now so I can try to get the clean-out screw loose and to hopefully help clean up whatever's in the channel. Tomorrow I'll use some compressed air on the channel too, if need be.

This isn't the first time I've had this sort of problem. (I really wished I had a rock lock with me. Those I can keep working every time). Any thoughts, suggestions, observations, undeserved allegations? I've had good sessions with this in the past, I'm sure, and I do keep my guns very clean. I'm frustrated and could use some guidance.

Thanks in advance.
Some here have said the CCI “Re-enactor” caps are not very strong, if that’s what you are using.
The percussion Sharps design has a flash channel with a rather tortuous path between nipple and channel.
Smoking pipe cleaners with the small metallic bristles in with the cotton mop part ( often hard to find ) will be your friends.
 
Is the fire channel cleanout screw in the breech block the correct length? I had an armi-sport rifle that had a screw that was way too short and was causing very little fire to actually make it to the chamber. Lots of failures to fire. was having to prime the nipple. Replaced the short screw with the correct length, and it started firing every time.
 

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