Should I install the forward lock bolt?

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HI, new to the forum, and it's been a big help to me already. I just received my Early Virginia kit from TVM. Should I install th forward lock bolt? Most of the pictures I have seen of this style show the flb installed. Are there any benefits to it, or drawbacks? What would be considered 'correct' for the rifle? Thanks in advance.
 
Yes, it should use two bolts. The benefit is that the lock is much more securely positioned. There are no drawbacks, so long as the bolt and lockplate are properly located.
 
About 1" forward of the front lock bolt, in the center of the bottm barrel flat inlet, drill a 1/8" hole down thru that barrel inlet into the RR hole. Measure the thickness of the wood there so you can tell if you have enough wood to get a front lock bolt in without interference of the RR. Using a depth gauge, transfer the measurements of the barrel inlet to the outside of the lock where the sideplate & lock goes & you can know pretty much where the bolt is going to end up.

If it is going to be close, you might try a 6-32 bolt there rather than a 8-32, use a fake bolt, or return the stock as the RR hole was incorrectly drilled..

:thumbsup:
 
Dirigo said:
HI, new to the forum, and it's been a big help to me already. I just received my Early Virginia kit from TVM. Should I install th forward lock bolt? Most of the pictures I have seen of this style show the flb installed. Are there any benefits to it, or drawbacks? What would be considered 'correct' for the rifle? Thanks in advance.

IMO, the advice from Birddog6 is solid...otherwise you'll run the very real risk of having to significantly modify / taper that end of the ramrod's diameter to clear and slide past the front lock bolt.
 
roundball said:
Dirigo said:
HI, new to the forum, and it's been a big help to me already. I just received my Early Virginia kit from TVM. Should I install th forward lock bolt? Most of the pictures I have seen of this style show the flb installed. Are there any benefits to it, or drawbacks? What would be considered 'correct' for the rifle? Thanks in advance.

IMO, the advice from Birddog6 is solid...otherwise you'll run the very real risk of having to significantly modify / taper that end of the ramrod's diameter to clear and slide past the front lock bolt.

I had that happen. I missed the web by a little ended up filing a shallow groove in the bolt where the RR hits it. Not desirable, but it worked.

Follow BD6's advise. :thumbsup:
 
I just worked around that last weekend, ended up drilling a hole for measurement then the lockbolt hole which could only go in one spot and still make good contact with the front of the lock. I ended up filing a slight groove in the underside of the barrel for clearance, now the RR doesnt bind on the bolt.
 
Follow birddog's advise, however, if there isn't enough room for the lock bolt, and there probably isn't, I wouldn't worry about it.

I have a custom gun that has a wood screw in place of the forward lock bolt. What this means is, the forward lock bolt is a dummy and the rear bolt is what is holding the lock in place. I have been shooting this gun for probably 20 years with no ill effects, so it is possible to make a dummy forward bolt, for appearances, and not worry about the single bolt holding the lock in place.

God bless
 
I am not a builder...just a user who has experienced the binding ramrod on the front lock bolt problem.

Whenever I see this same kind of thread periodically appear I always have the same thought...that there has to be a fundamental design flaw in all this that causes it...and worse...that that the problem continues to be repeated in builds taking place today even in the year 2009.

Some stock dimension or another has to be too small...its a common, well known problem and I just shake my head that it hasn't been corrected within the industry by now.
:shocked2:
 
I don't know how much it will help your gun but these old guns generally had tapered rammers.I also have two guns with filed slots in the foward lock bolts which helps especially on the really slender fowler.I have to play with the lock bolt so that the rammer will clear when I want to pull the lock.You didn't mention it but to pull the lock back out the bolts a little then tap them back and repeat the process until the lock is pretty loose.You NEVER want to work the lock loose by pulling on the cock.This will affect the tumbler and cock.
Tom Patton
 
I don't think that is quite fair :shake: , as you are hearing of the very few drilled wrong, & not hearing about the literally thousands that were drilled correctly. :hmm: Most of these guys do Wonderful jobs on them & I will be the first to credit them. :bow:
:thumbsup:
 
Birddog6 said:
I don't think that is quite fair :shake: , as you are hearing of the very few drilled wrong, & not hearing about the literally thousands that were drilled correctly. :hmm: Most of these guys do Wonderful jobs on them & I will be the first to credit them. :bow:
:thumbsup:
Well, I wasn't trying to be unfair at all...like I said, not being a builder I simply thought it must be a matter of stock dimensions being too small, or precarves being drilled incorrectly, setting up the conditions for such a thing to occur like it seems to...but if I understand you its really under the control of each builder
 
I suppose the "design flaw" is wanting the pleasing architecture that slim lines offer.

The thin web between the bottom of the barrel channel and top of the ramrod hole is thick enough if the lock is located properly, with the nose of the lock centered on the web.

IMHO, it isn't so much of a design flaw, as builder error when the lock isn't placed, just so...and there is very little room for error.

Like birddog, IMHO, we hear about those that missed, and not about those that don't, so the focus is on the perceived design flaw, rather than those who get it right.

God bless
 
It's not a design flaw. It's a flaw in execution.

Even when done right, there is NO room for error with the lock bolt. :wink:
 
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