• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Simple, single triggers

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TinStar

45 Cal.
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
673
Reaction score
0
Anyone here use the simple single trigger on their builds? If so how is the pull if the pivot point is high enough? Would double-set triggers be period correct for era during the Revolution and shortly thereafter?

TinStar
Soli Deo Gloria!
 
I have 3 customs used for hunting and all three have single pinned triggers. They range from 14 oz to just over 2 lb no creep pull. Perfect for me.
 
I'm still in my first build ever, but I did just finish installing a single trigger, pinned to the stock,
with a hole in the trigger arm to capture the sear bar.

TriggerInlet2.jpg


You can see the pin just in front of the sear arm inlet.
Following tips I've read here, the distance from sear bar to my pin is about 3/8", and I like the pull - maybe even a little light for a hunting gun.

People far wiser than I - and there are many of them - can answer your PC question.
 
I pinned this York high as well. I don't know the trigger pull weight, but it is light.

Triggerpinhole-1.jpg
 
I pin them as close to the same height as the sear screw as I can. Distance 1/2" from sear arm. I have found that the distance doesn't have that much bearing on weight of pull, but it sure has a bearing on the distance of pull. I've tried one at 3/8". Never again. Oh, the pull was light, but incredibly long. Very disconcerting. It felt like it would never let off. The weight is controlled more by the sear spring than anything.

By the way, on every old gun I have been able to examine (no, there haven't been that many, but several), the trigger is pinned at least 5/8" away from the sear arm. Usually about 3/4"! And you're durn right they're heavy, but that's because the sear springs are massive compared to the puny little sheet metal springs used on modern locks!
 
Here's one of my recent guns:
Right1.jpg


Here's a couple of old German guns:
IM000633.jpg

IM000636.jpg
 
I like single triggers. I pin them high and set the pin about 5/16" ahead of the sear bar contact with the trigger. That gives a pull weight of about two pounds. I have had them closer and with a pull as light as six ounces, with no lock tuning of any kind. But I like hunting rifle triggers heavier than that. I built a Green River Leman in their shop and the sear contact is about 3/4" from the trigger pin. That pull is heavier than I like, probably more than five pounds.
 
I've built several longrifles using a single trigger.
Some of them are that way because that's the way the original I based them on were built and some of them just because I know there are a lot of hunters who don't like double set triggers.
(IMO, double set triggers always have a very poor feel and trigger weight when they are used "unset".)

I try to locate the pivot pin about 3/8 inch in front of the sear arm and it always gives a nice trigger pull, neither too heavy or too light.
I don't worry much about the height of the pin although in theory it is best if it is about the same height as the sear arm.
 
Personally, I prefer a single trigger and I try to get the pivot pin as close to the sear screw as possible.....

I think they are easier to maintain too...
 
I have 3 with pinned triggers, 2 I built myself, and most of the guys I shoot with have pinned triggers, even the competition shooters. I'm certainly not opposed to either, but I like the smoothness of pinned trigger.

One thing I have noticed with pinned triggers, is there is either no creep or some of what I call "take up" creep (like on a modern gun where there is some play). I've talked to a few guys who can't stand it, but most don't think anything of it, including myself. Over the last couple of years I have had the opportunity to study, up close, a half a dozen original rifles. 1 had double set triggers, the rest had pinned triggers. Of the 5 with pinned triggers, 3 of them had what I would again call that "take up" creep. So I guess a little creep in your trigger is PC :grin:
 
So many people are worried to death about "take up". "ooh, the trigger rattles". Big deal. What would these people have done 250 years ago?
 
I've never owned a gun with a set tricker. I don't shoot for competition and prefer simple trickers like Chris sets them up. If I get a 3-4 pound pull that is crisp, I'mm a happy camper. if I don't, I re-work things till that's what I have.
 
I copy existing rifles and most that I build have single triggers. I prefer the single for myself as well, I personaly hate doubles. Pin about 3/16 high and 3/16 in front of the bar. Never measured but, they are comparable to my NM AR which is about 4.5 lbs. Both styles were used before and after the Rev.
 
Stophel said:
So many people are worried to death about "take up". "ooh, the trigger rattles". Big deal. What would these people have done 250 years ago?

They'd have gone out, and killed a deer with it and drug it home to feed their family. :wink:
 
I'd like to thank everyone for posting the photos. I'm in the process of restocking a rifle and I am making the stock from a blank. I'm no craftsman although I wish I was, in any event my best asset is to go slow and take plenty of time. Part of this project is a learning experience and using a pinned trigger is part of that.
In any event if the pin is 3/8" in front of the sear arm and the same height as the sear arm it sounds like I am good to go. Either here or on another form someone said to hold off on the slot in the trigger plate until the trigger has been pinned and then lengthen the slot forward until the trigger just engages the sear- that would reduce the free play on the trigger. If that isn't correct I hope someone will comment. My other issue on a pinned trigger- it's the width of the slot the trigger fits into versus the width of the trigger. It seems the trigger could move sideways along the pin. Are washers ever used or how close should the fit be?
 
It needs to be loose enough to move freely. Not snug AT ALL. I like to make the slot in the triggerplate a tad wider so that metal doesn't scrub against metal.

Clear your mind of 21st century CNC machining and $50,000 English shotgun tolerances.

:wink:
 
Back
Top