• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Stain color?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'll throw this one out there for consideration. I experimented with Lye with some success on a recent build. It worked very well on a cherry stock, but I haven't tried it on any other type of wood yet. I do know that one application with the correct mixture will darken the cherry wood considerably and additional applications will darken it even more. I have a Traditions kit I am planning on doing very soon, so I may experiment with the Tradition's beech wood in an inconspicuous area to gauge the results.
 
Hello all you builders! I'm going to be putting together a Traditions Crockett rifle kit as soon as it arrives and my plans are to make it different than others out there. I don't want to have the usual walnut/brown or in that area of color. Was thinking of a black or charcoal stock and dress it up with some brass tacks. What would y'all suggest for a stain color for what I'm looking to achieve? As always, appreciate the help in advance! :)
1 coat of tannic acid stain let dry
1coat of iron nitrate stain let dry

Heat activate! And voi le. Dark stain.
If to dark abraid w 3m pad
If too light 1 more coat of iron nitrate.
IDIOT PROOF!
 
If your kit is like mine, there is plenty of wood that needs to be removed that you could try it on the stock and then sand it off to get the shape correct. Not much risk. I had an 1/8 inch in several areas that had to be removed.
 
1 coat of tannic acid stain let dry
1coat of iron nitrate stain let dry

Heat activate! And voi le. Dark stain.
If to dark abraid w 3m pad
If too light 1 more coat of iron nitrate.
IDIOT PROOF!
People don't seem to like this method, not sure why. The only real negative that I've read is that it might make the wood brittle, so staining a ramrod might be a bad idea. I haven't tried this myself to see, at least not yet.

I think the same technique applies to iron acetate which is often used to ebonize wood.
 
People don't seem to like this method, not sure why. The only real negative that I've read is that it might make the wood brittle, so staining a ramrod might be a bad idea. I haven't tried this myself to see, at least not yet.

I think the same technique applies to iron acetate which is often used to ebonize wood.
Its fine for ram rods
But not necc.
Soak in turp ,use or
Buy a range rod and leave it for show👈👈🤔
 
This
1 coat of tannic acid stain let dry
1coat of iron nitrate stain let dry

Heat activate! And voi le. Dark stain.
If to dark abraid w 3m pad
If too light 1 more coat of iron nitrate.
IDIOT PROOF!
Yep! This is Beachwood done with Tannic and Iron Nitrate.
IMG_20210416_102443~2.jpg
 
Ok, at the risk of negative comments, because several have already been made... If you don't like it, don't comment. No its not traditional or historically accurate, don't care. It's what I wanted to do, and if the technology had been present, I guarantee that some builders would have done this back in the early 1800s. Again, if it's not for you, move along to something that is for you. Tired of people trying to make themselves feel superior by putting other people down. Think I'm out of line, report this post and let the moderators sort it out.

PSX_20221214_221641.jpg

Ferric nitrate over tannic acid, many coats of truoil. Camera flash doesn't really show it very well, but you can kind of see where the tannins soaked in and where they didn't. And for those that don't know, yes it is nickel plate. Click it for higher resolution. The end grain where the tannins really stayed in place are basically black, the toe of the stock and parts of the wrist. If you don't wipe the tannins off the surface, the whole thing will be essentially black. And because it is a metal, it should be fade resistant. All that said, not sure what will happen if you just oil it, the polymerizing finishes like truoil will hold things in place. Testing would be a good suggestion with both stain and finish coatings.

And yes, fingerprints are difficult to keep off these polished surfaces. Going to have to try and make a matte finish next time, I didn't like how some test pieces turned out as brushed or matte. The lock was very lightly polished, but already fairly shiny. The hammer is mostly just cleaned and plated. Both of these were case hardened to a very shallow depth, I'd didn't want to grind all of the hardness out by doing a lot of polishing. The scratches had to stay because of the surface hardening.
 
The stock looks very nice. It's hard to squeeze some life and figure out of beech.

I'd say that's a success.

And I'll toss in an artistic opinion. A brushed matte nickel would look fantastic on your rifle. You have a shiny stock and a shiny metal. Too much shine. Having one shiny element and one matte element would allow the different finishes to play off of one another.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, I need to work on a matte nickel and figure out what kind of surface finish I really need to be consistent. I'd also like to see if I can find a low toxicity black nickel process. Same goes for hard chrome, would be nice to plate the bore with chrome, but more toxic than I want to do at home.
 
Iron nitrate works really well on beech.

I used it on a Jukar Kentukcy rebuild.

The stock is a very dark burgundy/maroon.
Springer, i need photos (lots) and some product names. I have a collection of these, what some would call “low end” Jukars etc and I’m customizing them one at a time. The’re all good shooters and they deserve to look a lot better. So far, beech as been pretty non-responsive to me. Thanks for the hep!

don
 
I’m unfamiliar with some of these names… what do y’all call what you get when you dissolve steel wool in apple cider vinegar? Turns oak banjo necks black.

don
 
Springer, i need photos (lots) and some product names. I have a collection of these, what some would call “low end” Jukars etc and I’m customizing them one at a time. The’re all good shooters and they deserve to look a lot better. So far, beech as been pretty non-responsive to me. Thanks for the hep!

don
Look online for a guy doing a video with Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide and Steel Wool. I'll poke around and see if I can find it and at least provide a name.

This magic elixir works well on beech, and it will rust steel parts. The pic is of the Queen Anne lock parts for the antique 20ga. Hot water in the tub and a space heater. 19 hours to go.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1739.JPG
    IMG_1739.JPG
    520.8 KB
The video is from JWSBLADES.COM Starts off with a guy beating red hot metal on an anvil. Then a video of him making the Ferric Oxide Solution.

It's very simple. Can be used full strength or diluted with water for lesser effects on wood.

Jukar with FOS and heat applied.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1745.JPG
    IMG_1745.JPG
    885.7 KB
  • IMG_1744.JPG
    IMG_1744.JPG
    626 KB
  • IMG_1743.JPG
    IMG_1743.JPG
    591.7 KB
Last edited:
I’m unfamiliar with some of these names… what do y’all call what you get when you dissolve steel wool in apple cider vinegar? Turns oak banjo necks black.

don

It's called vinegaroon. Usd mostly on leather. It responds with the tannin in vegetable tanned leather. It will turn leather black or at least dark gray. But save the cider vinegar for marinades and get the strongest household vinegar that you can find. 5% is the usual but my local soopers sells a 6%. Also, forget the steel wool. Go to a parts store or repair shop where they turn rotors and drums and ask for a cup full of the shavings. Pour so.e straight into the vinegar bottle and wait. At room temp at least two weeks but longer is better.

The more tannin i. The leather or wood the darker it will get. Proceed cautiously so as not to get results that would be permanently unsatisfactory. 😒

Tannin Can be added by brushing on a very very strong tea. Another thing to go careful with.
 
Look online for a guy doing a video with Muriatic Acid, Hydrogen Peroxide and Steel Wool. I'll poke around and see if I can find it and at least provide a name.

This magic elixir works well on beech, and it will rust steel parts. The pic is of the Queen Anne lock parts for the antique 20ga. Hot water in the tub and a space heater. 19 hours to go.

Interesting, whats the mix ratio of Muriatic Acid and Hydrogen peroxide ?
 
Technically, it is called iron acetate. The brake rotor shaving idea is a good one. Nails work too, but slow because of the lack of surface area.

I used cleaning vinegar when I made my nickel acetate solution, higher concentration than most food grade vinegar.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top