Ok, like I said, I'm going to give the Laurel Mountain Forge Ebony Toner a try. Once I've got the desired shade I want, what do you all suggest as a finish? I don't want a glossy finish so, what product to get a satin finish?
Hi,Just curious, has anyone tried applying the iron nitrate and heat converting it first and then applying tannic acid?
The tannic and nitrate together form a compound when heated so no.Hi,
I doubt it because the purpose of the tannic acid is to add tannin to the wood so that when ferric nitrate is applied it brings out any figure in the wood more vividly and darker.
dave
Keep track take pics make a chart!Tannic acid and phosphoric acid are the two principal "rust converters." Browsing around, there's lots of stuff online about tannic acid solution, cold, turning rust into a black film. People using walnut hull dye caution that rust in a pot will turn the solution black. Trappers have long treated traps with various sorts of tannic solutions. So I think it will react. Might end up much the same as the standard method. Might be a little different, Might turn out to be a useful alternative. My interest in it is that both heat converted ferric nitrate and walnut hull dye are useful brown stains. But used together, they turn to a black stain. I'm curious about how it would work the other way, that's all. Combining the tannic acid with the dissolved ferric ions before heating it to convert the ferric nitrate to ferric oxide may well give different results than previously converting the ferric nitrate to ferric oxide (rust), then applying cold tannic acid in a solution that soon evaporates.
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