Starting my winter pistol build early

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Or...just prepping for the days of January\February 2025 when the weather is lousy. I started out with a block of Maple. Sawed the rough shape of the pistol I have a 13" .45 Cal barrel that will be used. Going to pattern it after the Chambers American Flintlock Pistol.

I got the barrel channel cut. Not the tang yet as I need to buy the breech plug, drill and tap the barrel and seat it. Today I received my 12" 5/16" drill bit and finished the ramrod hole. Next is to rough cut the width. Then inlet the tang.....and move on from there!!!

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Today I decided to make my Trigger Plate (TP) for the pistol. I cut some metal, cut the trigger slot, then silver soldered two lugs that will be the trigger pivot point. I left the lugs high so I could fit it once the lock and TP are inletted.

 

[CuNosecap]

This will be fun to watch. Thanks for posting.

 

[wiscoaster]

Well, once one of these projects are started, you can't stop until it's done. At least my experience. You'll be done long before winter and then need another one to get started on.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I keep "pecking" away at it a little at a time. The breech plug is coming and I have to drill\tap the barrel. Then fit the breech plug for a good fit\seal.

My plan is to make my own RR pipes and butt cap via peening sheet brass.

But.....archery season is fast approaching and I've got a very nice ten point on my cameras. Once that starts everything else is on the back burner.

Then again.....I may be done by Christmas if I get that ten point early. You know....the best laid plans of mice and men.......

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Got another step done. Fitted the breech plug and before the "final" wrench into the barrel polished up the breech face. Got luck on the alignment of the barrel flat and the seating of the plug. (This one was easier than others)

 

[rchas]

Good progress so far, although for the life of me, I read first read the thread title as "Water Pistol Build".

Need to get my eyes checked...

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Once I get the tang inletted I'll move on to inletting the lock plate. After that the trigger plate.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I am enjoying this build. I am curious why you kept the barrel channel walls so high rather than cutting them lower to nearer the finished height. Seems a lot more work inletting the barrel this way.
Thanks.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I am enjoying this build. I am curious why you kept the barrel channel walls so high rather than cutting them lower to nearer the finished height. Seems a lot more work inletting the barrel this way.
Thanks.

You raise a valid point. I'm probably over cautious when "leaving enough meat" on the rough out. It's always easier to take off wood and\or metal than to glue\silver solder it back on.

I likely could have removed another 1/4" of the wood height before starting the barrel channel, but that additional channel "digging" was straight down, and perhaps added another 3 "pass's" with the chisel. Rasping down the remainder is fairly quick.

I'd chalk it up to personal preference more than anything else.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I've got the barrel and tang fully inletted. Now it's time to move to the lock plate.

 

[mikesto44]

Been following this and your pistol is coming along well. I've got a 12 inch Getzs 50 cal. I want to make a bear pistol out off. Hopefully it looks like a pistol when I'm done....lol

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

I got the lock plate fully inletted. Also drilled the lock bolt. These pics show the lock and barrel, but l did not have the bolt in. When I tighten the bolt, the plate bolster is tight against the barrel.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

Got around to drilling the tang hole, and no matter how many times I do this, I have a proclivity to be off center. This one is .010 off to one side.....or really .005. I can fix it with the counter sink, but that will take some time.

I drilled the tang, then I drilled through to the trigger plate, then drilled the correct size hole in the TP for an 8-32 thread. It all came together well.....except for the fix I will have to do.

 

[PathfinderNC]

Pretty darned tootin good

 

[Flintandsteel]

Skinny that fat girl up! Get rid of some excess wood. This is hard enough without having to cut through so much extra wood.

 

[PathfinderNC]

what is the distance from the trigger plate to the sear bar? I just noticed how high the trigger pivot looks.

 

[ChuckJonesWagon]

what is the distance from the trigger plate to the sear bar? I just noticed how high the trigger pivot looks.

From the bottom of the TP to touching the sear bar, the distance is .560. If you've looked at my pics of the TP, I silver soldered the forks for the pivot pin. Those "forks" have been filed down since I located where I wanted the pivot point to be. BTW, the pivot point is in line with the sear bar and a little less than .250" away.