Trying to understand this “short arbor” on Uberti revolvers

[Gino753]

Ok Guys I just completed the project of the Arbor correction on my new Alberti Colt Walker.I fitted a Stainless Steel shim inside the barrel bore, and slowly filed it down, until the barrel goes all the way on with maby a 0.001” gap between the barrel lug face and the face of the frame.

The wedge goes all the way through, light and smooth, right until the face of the ,..or the tip of the wedge, just lines up with the other side of the barrel.In witch case the wedge comes to a tight-very snug Stop

It then takes 2 light-Firm taps with an 8oz rubber mallet, the push the wedge the rest of the way through, until the spring just snaps over the side of the barrel

I cant get the wedge in anymore from there..I am then left with a level gap between the forcing cone and the cylinder face, of a little under 0.002”

No binding, ..the forcing cone is just about touching the cylinder face

 

[Smokerr]

To me this is a 45D or D Yager response needed.

The frame and barrel section should meet with no gap. I can think of some probabilities of possible why not but it would be speculation.

 

[D Yager]

Indeed, you want that full contact where the lug meets the frame at the locating pins. Kinda important to have as much support as possible in that area. The fit of the barrel to cylinder gap is spot on. Between the arbor being seated and having the frame supporting the lower barrel lug makes the setup work as one solid piece.

 

[Gino753]

This is what I have

 

[D Yager]

Can you see daylight through the gap? If not you should be good to go.

 

[Gino753]

Can you see daylight through the gap? If not you should be good to go.

Yes so I just checked it, and you have to look up close kind of hard, but you can see some daylight.

I then took a piece of “Receipt” paper from Stop and shop, (To give reference) and I was able to push it through in between the frame and the barrel lug…so im going to Shave another 0.001” off the shim

My Second Dragoon, where’s its wedge, bottoms out a little further in versus my Walker …The receipt does not fit between its gap however

So im assuming that once I shave a tiny bit more off the shim, that my wedge is going to bottom out a little farther as well, but I think that’s a pretty good fit because the tip of the Arbor is absolutely hitting bottom in the barrel of the Dragoon as well

 

[45D]

Yes so I just checked it, and you have to look up close kind of hard, but you can see some daylight.

I then took a piece of “Receipt” paper from Stop and shop, (To give reference) and I was able to push it through in between the frame and the barrel lug…so im going to Shave another 0.001” off the shim

My Second Dragoon, where’s its wedge, bottoms out a little further in versus my Walker …The receipt does not fit between its gap however

So im assuming that once I shave a tiny bit more off the shim, that my wedge is going to bottom out a little farther as well, but I think that’s a pretty good fit because the tip of the Arbor is absolutely hitting bottom in the barrel of the Dragoon as well

Hey Gino753, I don't pay attention to the endshake until there is contact at the barrel lug (with wedge in place!). Once that happens, there's your starting point for endshake.

 

[Gino753]

Hey Gino753, I don't pay attention to the endshake until there is contact at the barrel lug (with wedge in place!). Once that happens, there's your starting point for endshake.

Thank you Mike, im going to continue this afternoon, I ended putting that project aside for the night and quitting while I’m ahead before I ruin another shim by making it too thin

And installed the rear peep sight on my 1873 Winchester lever action, and drifted out the origional rear buckhorn sight