Trying to understand this “short arbor” on Uberti revolvers

[45D]

So what are you saying..

Lots of Colts need fixed (99%) and almost no (two) Remingtons, kind of argues for the Remingtons

No, that's called "wishful thinking of a Remy fan"! Not to mention ANY revolver will benefit from a "tuning ".

Colt platforms are definitely more popular across the board 3:1 at least. Remies would be my cap gun choice for Cowboy Action Shooting though . . . mainly for the ease of swapping cylinders at the loading table.

Mike

 

[BillinOregon]

If only the Remington grip fit my hand.

 

[D Yager]

Personally I find the open tops to be better balanced. Both are cool revolvers and I like the look of the Remmies. I just don't see them on the bench very often.

 

[Gino753]

Thanks Smokerr !!

Most barrel lug to frame fits are really good but if it's just the slightest bit of light (at the very edge of the joint), it will probably stay. There's a lot of contact right there so with the tension added by the wedge, there won't be movement.

Mike

Ok thank you Mike , i tried applying a very light coat of grease on the face of the lug and assembled the barrel to the frame and a string bead of grease formed around the joint as this showed me somewhat that the two halves are squeezing together

 

[Smokerr]

I like the use of grease in this case. I would not have thought of it. I have used it to make sure rifle receivers are free floating (I build up my own custom rifles from Savage receivers).

Its always fascinating to see how people come up with solutions to things.

 

[Gino753]

I like the use of grease in this case. I would not have thought of it. I have used it to make sure rifle receivers are free floating (I build up my own custom rifles from Savage receivers).

Its always fascinating to see how people come up with solutions to things.

I tried using a piece of receipt paper as well.I put a piece of it between the barrel block and the front of the frame.I then put the Colt together to see how tight receipt was gripped

The receipt was gripped pretty tight, i then tried using grease, and the grease squeezed out pretty good leaving a grease trail the whole length of the gap

 

[French Colonial]

Not at all, most guys around here have open tops. Those that do have Remmies usually don't know that they are out of time and could stand some improvement along with the mistaken idea it's a stronger frame so it doesn't need any work done.

That is a presumptive statement.

You are saying that USUALLY we do not know we have an inaccurate gun that needs work, nothing could be further from the truth.

And while I do not care to get in the stronger frame argument...I will state again, history has already settled that argument....

Someone remind me, when did Colt quit making open tops and go to the stronger frame?

 

[45D]

That is a presumptive statement.

You are saying that USUALLY we do not know we have an inaccurate gun that needs work, nothing could be further from the truth.

And while I do not care to get in the stronger frame argument...I will state again, history has already settled that argument....

Someone remind me, when did Colt quit making open tops and go to the stronger frame?

Well, I've done WAY more than two and I would agree with D Yager that the manufacturers tend to drop the bolt late . . . right on the edge of the locking notch. Apparently "they" think if there's no "approach" (lead-in to the notch) the bolt should drop "closer" to IN the notch. So, most (if not all) do have a timing issue.

The "top strap" issue for Colt had nothing to do with "strength" but everything to do with military demands. Colt ALREADY had a top strap design and dropped it. You folks like to forget that when you don't want to argue about it !!

Mike

Oh it was after the Mod. 1872 that Colt went with the "cheaper" frame . . . the one they've never made in 44Mag . . . can't figure that one out . . .

 

[bpd303]

ANY revolver will benefit from a "tuning ".

The only ones I own that do not need tuning, IMHO are my Rogers & Spencer & 1847 Walker made by Euroarms <Armi San Paolo> DGG. This site has some very good information on wedge adjustment and other Colts.
https://www.capandballrevolvers.com/armi-san-paolo-dgg-and-euroarms

 

[Gino753]

So is this why there is usually a silver mark on the edge of the slot on the cylinder? Because the bolts dropping late?

 

[45D]

So is this why there is usually a silver mark on the edge of the slot on the cylinder? Because the bolts dropping late?

Yap!! There should be a mark at least as wide as the bolt BEFORE the notch.

Mike

 

[Gino753]

Yap!! There should be a mark at least as wide as the bolt BEFORE the notch.

Mike

Ok so then, drag on the cylinder from the bolt is encouraged?

And what part would I work on, Too allow this?

 

[D Yager]

Length of the left hand bolt leg determines drop timing. The shorter the leg the earlier the drop happens.

 

[Smokerr]

Yap!! There should be a mark at least as wide as the bolt BEFORE the notch.

I keep learning! Hmm, took a look and sure enough, just what Mike says. The 47 Walker is not tuned but pretty decent sans the short arbor. Amazing Uberti won't fix that.

 

[D Yager]

Ok so then, drag on the cylinder from the bolt is encouraged?

And what part would I work on, Too allow this?

The bolt spring acts as a brake to slow the cylinder as well as the hand spring. Between the two springs it should apply enough braking force to prevent over travel also called throw by. If you hold the bolt in your hand with the head pointed away from you and the 2 legs up it's the leg on the left that works off the cam on the hammer. Shortening this leg a tiny amount at a time will get the bolt dropping earlier. You want it to drop a minimal of 1 bolt head width before the locking notch. As to the combination spring that runs the trigger and bolt the bolt side can be tweaked for more tension on the bolt. I do away with the combo spring and make music wire torsion type springs. They don't break like a flat spring doe's.

 

[M. De Land]

The bolt spring acts as a brake to slow the cylinder as well as the hand spring. Between the two springs it should apply enough braking force to prevent over travel also called throw by. If you hold the bolt in your hand with the head pointed away from you and the 2 legs up it's the leg on the left that works off the cam on the hammer. Shortening this leg a tiny amount at a time will get the bolt dropping earlier. You want it to drop a minimal of 1 bolt head width before the locking notch. As to the combination spring that runs the trigger and bolt the bolt side can be tweaked for more tension on the bolt. I do away with the combo spring and make music wire torsion type springs. They don't break like a flat spring doe's.

Well your slowly getting there, keep up the with the open mindedness and do some more thinking on why a hand has no relevance to braking action on the cylinder rotation velocity !

 

[45D]

Well your slowly getting there, keep up the with the open mindedness and do some more thinking on why a hand has no relevance to braking action on the cylinder rotation velocity !

You're not helping your argument sir !!!
If the bolt only needs to be on the cylinder for "its" width just before the notch for the braking, why would YOU want to drop it right after half cock (your view!) ??
So now you are for keeping rings off cylinders?
Next you'll say your revolver "clicks" when you roll the cylinder on half cock!! !!! ( like the rest of ours do!!)

Mike

 

[D Yager]

Lets be clear on something here, any thing that is pressed against the cylinder whether it's the bolt for that brief second or the hand being pressed into the ratchet for a longer period is gonna create friction and impede the rotation of the cylinder. The main braking effect comes from the hand spring, if you don't believe it try removing the hand spring and see if it throws by. Weak hand springs are the big cause of over travel on the 5 shot pocket pistols.

 

[M. De Land]

You're not helping your argument sir !!!
If the bolt only needs to be on the cylinder for "its" width just before the notch for the braking, why would YOU want to drop it right after half cock (your view!) ??
So now you are for keeping rings off cylinders?
Next you'll say your revolver "clicks" when you roll the cylinder on half cock!! !!! ( like the rest of ours do!!)

Mike

You keep avoiding the fact that the cylinder velocity continually increases never decreasing in a cock stroke. The hand pressure on the ratchet tooth is continuous into bolt drop and lock up. The hand never slows the rotation velocity in the least hence there is zero braking action taking place from the hand.

 

[JimCunn]

"Someone remind me, when did Colt quit making open tops and go to the stronger frame?"

Isn't that a presumptive statement?