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very basic question on "set" trigger
- Thread starter strand
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If the triggers are like those on a TC Hawken, there should be a tiny adjustment screw between the two triggers.
The purpose of the rear set trigger is to actually cock the trigger mechanism inside so the front trigger becomes like a "hair trigger", particularly good for precision shooting.
For TC's set trigger assemblies:
1) Place the hammer at half cock;
2) 'set' the rear trigger, which means pull it back until you hear/feel it click into place. (If it won't, back the adjustment screw out a few turns and keep trying to set the rear trigger until it latches up)
3) Then with the rear (set) trigger set, slowly turn the adjusting screw in until you hear the trigger mechanism fire, (hear it release, etc.
4) Then back the adjusting screw out one full turn;
If you don't want it to have quite such a delicate hair trigger touch, back the screw out another 1/2 turn, etc.
IMHO they were designed to add sport to hunting with gloves or mittens on. I've had two "premature ejaculations" trying to use the set trigger under hunting conditions. I use a single, non-set trigger for all of my large game and most of my small game hunting now.
Guest
This is how the Traditions manual says to do which is the type cloud buster I have.
Double-Set Triggers operation:
1. The purpose of double-set triggers is to increase the sensitivity of the front trigger. The front trigger actually fires the gun. Double-set triggers are used during bench, precision target shooting and hunting.
2. Testing double-set triggers: Make certain gun is unloaded and always pointed in a safe direction !!!
a. With the rifle pointed in a safe direction, place hammer in the half-cock (first click) position. Set (pull) the rear trigger until it clicks into position. With the hammer in the half-cock position, it should be impossible to make the hammer fall by applying pressure on the front trigger or pushing the hammer forward.
b. Place the hammer in the full-cock (second position). Set the rear trigger. Test that it will stay in this position by attempting to push the hammer forward. With the hammer secure, very light pressure applied to the front trigger will then fire the rifle.
CAUTION: If the lock and triggers do not perform, as in steps
Double-Set Triggers operation:
1. The purpose of double-set triggers is to increase the sensitivity of the front trigger. The front trigger actually fires the gun. Double-set triggers are used during bench, precision target shooting and hunting.
2. Testing double-set triggers: Make certain gun is unloaded and always pointed in a safe direction !!!
a. With the rifle pointed in a safe direction, place hammer in the half-cock (first click) position. Set (pull) the rear trigger until it clicks into position. With the hammer in the half-cock position, it should be impossible to make the hammer fall by applying pressure on the front trigger or pushing the hammer forward.
b. Place the hammer in the full-cock (second position). Set the rear trigger. Test that it will stay in this position by attempting to push the hammer forward. With the hammer secure, very light pressure applied to the front trigger will then fire the rifle.
CAUTION: If the lock and triggers do not perform, as in steps
PS:
If it is a TC, just give them a call (603-332-2333) and they'll send you their owner's manual for free...has all that stuff in it plus load data tables in the back for different calibers, different projectiles, etc...manual is entitled:
"Shooting Thompson/Center Black Powder Muzzleloading Firearms"
I hate to disagree with the publisher of the manual, but I do NOT recommend putting the hammer in the Half Cock position when releasing a Set Trigger. Leave the hammer in the DOWN position. With the hammer in the down position, you can "fire" the set triggers all day long and not hurt a thing.
With the hammer in the Half Cock position you stand a Very Good chanch of BREAKING the nose off of the sear, or breaking the tumbler Half Cock notch on the tumbler.
This is a safety issue if the gun is loaded, and it is a "break the lock" issue even if the gun is unloaded.
:imo:
DON'T PUT THE HAMMER IN THE HALF COCK POSITION AND THEN RELEASE OR "FIRE" THE SET TRIGGER.
With the hammer in the Half Cock position you stand a Very Good chanch of BREAKING the nose off of the sear, or breaking the tumbler Half Cock notch on the tumbler.
This is a safety issue if the gun is loaded, and it is a "break the lock" issue even if the gun is unloaded.
:imo:
DON'T PUT THE HAMMER IN THE HALF COCK POSITION AND THEN RELEASE OR "FIRE" THE SET TRIGGER.
Zonie you beat me to it. leave the lock alone if you are working on the set triggers. As zonie said you could break the lock and creat more problems. Just wish mine didn't have to come out of the rifle to set the trip pressure thats the pressure to trip the sear.
Fox
Fox
Seems to me it would have to be a defective sear in the first place for that to happen in a TC lock...TC's sear tip is very thick and it is very deeply and heavily engaged in a big deep half cock notch on the tumbler...set trigger flip-up action & impact is not very strong at all...hard for me to see it happening on a TC lock doing it like TC's manual says to do it...I don't adjust set triggers very often of course but have been doing it on TC locks for almost 15 years...wonder why they'd say to do it the half cock notch instead of with the hammer let down...you could call TC and explain it to them, see what they say, etc...
Roundball: Perhaps your right about the stout TC sear but my responce was based on several thoughts.
First, there are a lot of people reading these posts and they may not have TC locks. The thickness of the sear on some locks is not very great, and they can, and will break off, if someone pounds on the trigger when the hammer is in the Half Cock position.
Pounds on the trigger? Yes.
When the front trigger releases the spring loaded sear release blade in the set trigger and it whacks into the sear arm, it is the same thing as pounding on the trigger of a standard non set style trigger with the hammer in the half cock notch.
I don't want someone thinking this is a good practice and ruining their expensive locks, or worse yet, having them frinkel with the set trigger on a loaded gun, thinking "the hammer is in the half cock notch, so what could go wrong?"
Second, I can think of absolutly no reason for having the sear engaged while adjusting the set trigger.
The position of the sear arm (the 90 degree projecting arm which is behind the sear screw) with the hammer down, or in the half cock notch is in practically the same place and it will not effect the set triggers operation in any way.
It won't effect the release and it won't effect the distance the sear release blade travels after it is released enough to talk about.
(IMO, the distance this blade travels after it is realeased doesn't have anything to do with adjusting the release pressure.)
As to the question of "why did the manual say to put the gun in the half cock position?", I have no clue, but in my ignorance, I still reserve the right to disagree with them.
(By the way, as a Mechanical Engineering Designer, I can say there have been many times the Project Engineer would tell the customer things about my designs which I, the designer, absolutely disagree with. Most of the time I can catch these things but occasionally they get released. That may have happened here.)
First, there are a lot of people reading these posts and they may not have TC locks. The thickness of the sear on some locks is not very great, and they can, and will break off, if someone pounds on the trigger when the hammer is in the Half Cock position.
Pounds on the trigger? Yes.
When the front trigger releases the spring loaded sear release blade in the set trigger and it whacks into the sear arm, it is the same thing as pounding on the trigger of a standard non set style trigger with the hammer in the half cock notch.
I don't want someone thinking this is a good practice and ruining their expensive locks, or worse yet, having them frinkel with the set trigger on a loaded gun, thinking "the hammer is in the half cock notch, so what could go wrong?"
Second, I can think of absolutly no reason for having the sear engaged while adjusting the set trigger.
The position of the sear arm (the 90 degree projecting arm which is behind the sear screw) with the hammer down, or in the half cock notch is in practically the same place and it will not effect the set triggers operation in any way.
It won't effect the release and it won't effect the distance the sear release blade travels after it is released enough to talk about.
(IMO, the distance this blade travels after it is realeased doesn't have anything to do with adjusting the release pressure.)
As to the question of "why did the manual say to put the gun in the half cock position?", I have no clue, but in my ignorance, I still reserve the right to disagree with them.
(By the way, as a Mechanical Engineering Designer, I can say there have been many times the Project Engineer would tell the customer things about my designs which I, the designer, absolutely disagree with. Most of the time I can catch these things but occasionally they get released. That may have happened here.)
strand....with my T/C set triggers unset they go off with bout 5 lbs pressure when i set the trigger it then goes off with bout 15 ozs of pressure....
stumpy.... i have a pair of gloves that the index finger is a little thinner for that problem....even in the winter my finger doesn't get cold and i can feel the trigger still like you want to.........................bob
stumpy.... i have a pair of gloves that the index finger is a little thinner for that problem....even in the winter my finger doesn't get cold and i can feel the trigger still like you want to.........................bob
Roundball: Perhaps your right about the stout TC sear but my responce was based on several thoughts.
First, there are a lot of people reading these posts and they may not have TC locks. The thickness of the sear on some locks is not very great, and they can, and will break off, if someone pounds on the trigger when the hammer is in the Half Cock position.
Pounds on the trigger? Yes.
When the front trigger releases the spring loaded sear release blade in the set trigger and it whacks into the sear arm, it is the same thing as pounding on the trigger of a standard non set style trigger with the hammer in the half cock notch.
I don't want someone thinking this is a good practice and ruining their expensive locks, or worse yet, having them frinkel with the set trigger on a loaded gun, thinking "the hammer is in the half cock notch, so what could go wrong?"
Second, I can think of absolutly no reason for having the sear engaged while adjusting the set trigger.
The position of the sear arm (the 90 degree projecting arm which is behind the sear screw) with the hammer down, or in the half cock notch is in practically the same place and it will not effect the set triggers operation in any way.
It won't effect the release and it won't effect the distance the sear release blade travels after it is released enough to talk about.
(IMO, the distance this blade travels after it is realeased doesn't have anything to do with adjusting the release pressure.)
As to the question of "why did the manual say to put the gun in the half cock position?", I have no clue, but in my ignorance, I still reserve the right to disagree with them.
(By the way, as a Mechanical Engineering Designer, I can say there have been many times the Project Engineer would tell the customer things about my designs which I, the designer, absolutely disagree with. Most of the time I can catch these things but occasionally they get released. That may have happened here.)
Yes, they're very stout...and I wasn't talking about all sorts of other locks...I made it clear I was only talking about TC locks and TC's instructions for setting their set triggers...as I said, I don't see a problem on TC locks based on those instructions and my personal experiences so far...worse case, if a sear should ever break, TC will fix it for free of course, so they have $$$ incentive to give accurate instructions
Rat
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Hmmmmmmm...."dangerous" situation called a "hair trigger". I thought that was the purpose of set triggers...so you could have a hair-trigger, but it was safe because it was only there AFTER you set the triggers...!!
Obviously, when hunting and it's cold you are going to adjust the triggers differently than when shooting the gun at the range. I have the triggers on my Jaeger set VERY light right now, but for hunting I will readjust slightly.
However, I sure would not set them for anything over a pound and a half, as then I might as well have a normal trigger. Not sure where I have it now, but you don't actually pull it, you "touch" it.
When hunting, depending on the shot, you have to decide whether to set the trigger or not. Hurried shot, close in, I'd just pull the front trigger. Also, if I did not have time to take off my glove, I would not set the trigger. Those gloves where you can stick your trigger finger out, or peel the fingers off your fingers quickly, are probably pretty much a must for set triggers...unless you have it set[url] heavy...in[/url] which case I would again ask why not just have a single trigger? Why have to set a trigger to get a normal trigger pull?
Long shot, good rest, animal standing still...then I'd set the trigger, and have it set light, and take off the glove.
On "dry firing" set triggers, I'm only familiar with the one I have, (Davis) but if I leave my middle finger resting on the rear trigger, when I touch off the front trigger, the rear trigger just snaps into my finger, instead of whacking into the sear bar.
Rat
Obviously, when hunting and it's cold you are going to adjust the triggers differently than when shooting the gun at the range. I have the triggers on my Jaeger set VERY light right now, but for hunting I will readjust slightly.
However, I sure would not set them for anything over a pound and a half, as then I might as well have a normal trigger. Not sure where I have it now, but you don't actually pull it, you "touch" it.
When hunting, depending on the shot, you have to decide whether to set the trigger or not. Hurried shot, close in, I'd just pull the front trigger. Also, if I did not have time to take off my glove, I would not set the trigger. Those gloves where you can stick your trigger finger out, or peel the fingers off your fingers quickly, are probably pretty much a must for set triggers...unless you have it set[url] heavy...in[/url] which case I would again ask why not just have a single trigger? Why have to set a trigger to get a normal trigger pull?
Long shot, good rest, animal standing still...then I'd set the trigger, and have it set light, and take off the glove.
On "dry firing" set triggers, I'm only familiar with the one I have, (Davis) but if I leave my middle finger resting on the rear trigger, when I touch off the front trigger, the rear trigger just snaps into my finger, instead of whacking into the sear bar.
Rat
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THE ADMIRAL makes wool fingerless "mittens" for me with enough advance notice. I use these when bowhunting, fishing, R/C flying, hunting, etc. I cheated this year and got a "real" store-bought pair after losing my favorites :cry: These are 85% wool and have Thinsulate lining and a flap to cover the fingertips if desired, and are pretty comfy.
