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I found this 1847 Walker at my lgs. Looks to be Parkerized? Anyway I took out the nipples and they looked great so I put some bore butter on them and reinstalled them. Looks like it wasn’t shot after the new finish was done.
Got it for $275 otd. How do you all think I did? Oh, Uberti 1998.
 

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I found this 1847 Walker at my lgs. Looks to be Parkerized? Anyway I took out the nipples and they looked great so I put some bore butter on them and reinstalled them. Looks like it wasn’t shot after the new finish was done.
Got it for $275 otd. How do you all think I did? Oh, Uberti 1998.
You did good for that price!
 
shot my smr .45 some. starting to become a love affair!
dropped my priming antler and broke the cap so i poured another with pewter. bored and threaded for the stopper. haven't the umph to finish it tonight.
did a little test stain on the plank that is going to start becoming a stock . stain is straight golden oak minwax on smooth 320 grit sanded wood. kinda like it.
Classic American Colerain .58 barrel coming tomorrow. time to sharpen tools.
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shot my smr .45 some. starting to become a love affair!
dropped my priming antler and broke the cap so i poured another with pewter. bored and threaded for the stopper. haven't the umph to finish it tonight.
did a little test stain on the plank that is going to start becoming a stock . stain is straight golden oak minwax on smooth 320 grit sanded wood. kinda like it.
Classic American Colerain .58 barrel coming tomorrow. time to sharpen tools.
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I need you to give me pewter pouring lessons.
 
I need you to give me pewter pouring lessons.
get it hot, pour it and run like h---!
i have about 10% success rate. getting the dam tight enough to eliminate leaks is THE most important thing. let me know when you achieve that, i sure haven't.
pewter has a narrow temp range that is hard for a shade tree guncrank to achieve. hot enough to flow evenly and not so hot it crystalizes. it took 3 pours for that antler. its like keeping the wife happy, practice for a life time, and still flub it!
I have a lead pour spoon that i hold the pewter bar over and hit the bar with a torch. the drip fills the ladle and by holding that close to the bar it heats enough to keep the pewter molten.
i will then try to dribble the pewter around the edge of the dam, moving pretty fast to build a thin seal. count to 10 and pour the rest of the dam full. go have a soda or whatever and when you get back it has either set up solid, or all drained int o splattering mess on the floor.
some day i will figure out how to reclaim pewter out of carpet.
 
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get it hot, pour it and run like h---!
i have about 10% success rate. getting the dam tight enough to eliminate leaks is THE most important thing. let me know when you achieve that, i sure haven't.
pewter has a narrow temp range that is hard for a shade tree guncrank to achieve. hot enough to flow evenly and not so hot it crystalizes. it took 3 pours for that antler. its like keeping the wife happy, practice for a life time, and still flub it!
I have a lead pour spoon that i hold the pewter bar over and hit the bar with a torch. the drip fills the ladle and by holding that close to the bar it heats enough to keep the pewter molten.
i will then try to dribble the pewter around the edge of the dam, moving pretty fast to build a thin seal. count to 10 and pour the rest of the dam full. go have a soda or whatever and when you get back it has either set up solid, or all drained int o splattering mess on the floor.
some day i will figure out how to reclaim pewter out of carpet.
I’m going to try again with some different “pewter”. Dam near came close to using this stuff on your blade. Glad I didn’t.
 
prepping for the shoot on the 11 th I'm the cook

CANNON VALLEY MUZZLELOADERS
1st shoot of the season
SATURDAY MAY 11TH 9 AM APPROXIMATE Start
We don't discriminate all are welcome as long as it loads from the
muzzle
$10 registration, kids shoot free. .50 relays winner takes half the
pot
AT AHLMANS GUNS IN MORRISTOWN MN.
9525 230TH.ST. W.
MORRISTOWN MN
CALL Lynn 612 250 5943 or Deryk 612 388 4249
 
did a little test stain on the plank that is going to start becoming a stock . stain is straight golden oak minwax on smooth 320 grit sanded wood. kinda like it.

View attachment 317734View attachment 317735

I like the look of Golden Oak Minwax on curly maple... I used that on a large, curly maple dresser I'm in the long process of building. I figured I'd die of old age before getting Aqua Fortis blushed out on the whole dresser, so decided against that idea. The Golden Oak Minwax has a nice, anti-Q look about it on maple.

Nice job on the antler primer, too!
 
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Heavy rain west of London, but I had half hour respite at 3 pm so got 20 mins sanding my stock down with a flap disc outside , plus caught my glove finger on edge of flap disc , not much but it did right hurt , done that before ha ha

Pleased with progress , trying not to get excited.

Picasso paintings are so simple to do but full of colour so I sketched out a couple while watching the poring rain, then with more rain I painted them in with acrylic, Just a bit of fun. Couple of hours to pass time of day , I sent one to a gunny forum friend up in Maine but postage was $24 , so I’ll not send again to often , maybe xmas ha ha

Love from across the forum. Ps. The Moslem London mayor got in a third term, Londons almost a Moslem city now , whites are outvoted, anyway he seems a nice guy, such is life in this green and pleasant land
 

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Well, I went through my first batch of balls on the scale at work during coffee break.

I had a couple outliers...looks like I didn't have the mold completely seated or had a little lead dripping in the ring and from the look of the surface, they were early ones so I'll chock it up to the learning curve with dip casting and the different style mold. Converting to grains, I'm casting .569" rb weighing in at 275gr +/- 1gr. Considering I am hand cutting the sprues with a ground side cutter, I'd say that is pretty decent consistency. I guess I I remember how to cast, even if it is a little different method than what I used to use. ;)

I know the .569" number will raise a couple eyebrows, but it is not a Lee or Lyman mold....it's a James Tanner (son of Jim Tanner) brass barrel mold. With it being made to order and the patching material I see locally usually being on the thicker side, I shaved it a point to compensate.
 
Shot the Jukar Colonial pistol today (recently converted it to flintlock). It is shooting high, the rear sight needs the U notch cut, temporarily used a marker to mark the area to cut. I believe once the U notch is cut the shots will center up nicely with the targets.

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@Psycho Mike Are the cast balls coming off right at the spec you ordered? I feel like I need a 492 mold but of course they are not off the shelf!
@longcruise I haven't borrowed a set of calipers from work yet, but at 275 grains of pure lead, the total mass is about what I'd expect with the slight difference in diameter (a .570 rb is supposed to be 277gr, mine are 275 gr...pretty much spot on with the proportion of volumes of the two spheres, give or take a little sprue trimming).
 
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