Wheellock Project

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
The next pics are of the Brass R&D for the Closure Spring at the bottom of the Pan Cover Arm. Work Hardened it and shaped it. After figuring things out I started in with Spring Stock from DGW I'm thinking about 1070 or 1080. To file the Catch I glued it to a piece of wood with CA Glue. Last x2 pics are of the Spring Steel Capture Spring.
Thanks,Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. Today is the "V" Spring for the Primary and Secondary Sears. I started again by using Brass for R&D. It's an ingenious design because it has two functions at the same time. What I will call the Bottom Arm exerts pressure on the Primary Sear after the Sear has been released so when the Wheel is Wound it will pop the Primary Sear in place to Capture the Secondary Sear Arm. The Top Arm exerts pressure on the Secondary Arm to pop the Nose of the Secondary Sear into the Recess in the Back Side of the Wheel. The Top Edge of both Arms needs to be the same Hight as the Secondary Arm because the Mainspring will slide in on the Top. Next, the Steel Spring/s. Made a little mistake on the first but no problem, start again. When I make a Matched Brace I mark each piece to keep them with the correct lock. At a lecture by Jerry Huddleston he pointed out that in a Kiln even if you have an electronic read out of the internal Temp. it is NOT EQUAL in every part of the Kiln. So what I did was make Stands to try to Center my Pieces in the Kiln. So far this has been successful.
Thanks,Hank

 

[Commodore Swab]

Greetings,
Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving. Today is the "V" Spring for the Primary and Secondary Sears. I started again by using Brass for R&D. It's an ingenious design because it has two functions at the same time. What I will call the Bottom Arm exerts pressure on the Primary Sear after the Sear has been released so when the Wheel is Wound it will pop the Primary Sear in place to Capture the Secondary Sear Arm. The Top Arm exerts pressure on the Secondary Arm to pop the Nose of the Secondary Sear into the Recess in the Back Side of the Wheel. The Top Edge of both Arms needs to be the same Hight as the Secondary Arm because the Mainspring will slide in on the Top. Next, the Steel Spring/s. Made a little mistake on the first but no problem, start again. When I make a Matched Brace I mark each piece to keep them with the correct lock. At a lecture by Jerry Huddleston he pointed out that in a Kiln even if you have an electronic read out of the internal Temp. it is NOT EQUAL in every part of the Kiln. So what I did was make Stands to try to Center my Pieces in the Kiln. So far this has been successful.
Thanks,Hank

I don't like making those sear springs . . .
Is there any reason for the pan spring other than ease of closing the pan and holding it shut? I assume you will be putting a button in to release the catch allowing closure?

 

[Henry Elwood]

I don't like making those sear springs . . .
Is there any reason for the pan spring other than ease of closing the pan and holding it shut? I assume you will be putting a button in to release the catch allowing closure?

Greetings,
Yes, you need the Upper Capture Spring for the Pan Cover Arm with the Cam to hold it Open the it is Fired. I will post Pics of the Dutch lock. You can Open and Close with your Thumb. This style has a Spring at the Bottom of the Arm that puts constant Pressure to close. So, you need the "Capture " Spring to catch it when the lock is fired. Otherwise it would try to close in the middle of the Firing. With this design you have to have the Push Button to release the Soring from the Arm. Otherwise without the Button there's no way to release the Pan Cover. All of what I'm posting is like a "Prequel" these locks are made, functioning, and I've started making the Brace. I can't work fast enough to make and post at the almost same time. I started these in January. I like questions, it gives me the chance to talk and explain. Thanks, Hank

 

[Commodore Swab]

Greetings,
Yes, you need the Upper Capture Spring for the Pan Cover Arm with the Cam to hold it Open the it is Fired. I will post Pics of the Dutch lock. You can Open and Close with your Thumb. This style has a Spring at the Bottom of the Arm that puts constant Pressure to close. So, you need the "Capture " Spring to catch it when the lock is fired. Otherwise it would try to close in the middle of the Firing. With this design you have to have the Push Button to release the Soring from the Arm. Otherwise without the Button there's no way to release the Pan Cover. All of what I'm posting is like a "Prequel" these locks are made, functioning, and I've started making the Brace. I can't work fast enough to make and post at the almost same time. I started these in January. I like questions, it gives me the chance to talk and explain. Thanks, Hank

I have the same setup on the wheellock I'm building, a friend just got an abandoned wheellock project that doesn't employ the spring and capture system. I haven't drilled mine yet for the pin.

 

[Henry Elwood]

I have the same setup on the wheellock I'm building, a friend just got an abandoned wheellock project that doesn't employ the spring and capture system. I haven't drilled mine yet for the pin.

Greetings,
If you look closely at the first two pics, of the Dutch Lock you can see that the Pan Cover Arm has a bevel on both sides of the Arm where the Flat Capture Spring holds it when it is Open or Closed. In one direction the Thumb pushes it Over the high point to Closed Position. But in the other direction it is the Cam of the Tumbler that pushes it past the high point to keep the Pan Open while firing. Not sure if you can tell, but on this Dutch Lock there is no Bottom Spring or Push Button Release. If you want I can take it down and take more pics. I'm not always the best at explaining things. BTW, awhile back you were posting about A Belt Hook on your new build. In Ricard Marti's book he gives examples of x3 different styles of hooks but also if I figured things out correctly he showed a Baldric that the Spanish use to wear and could put multiple pistols in across their chest. Also I think in Brinckerhoff's book there is an example of a Powder Horn that used a Belt Hook to hold it. Ricard's book is in Catalan, so not 100%.

 

[Commodore Swab]

There is a horn

Greetings,
If you look closely at the first two pics, of the Dutch Lock you can see that the Pan Cover Arm has a bevel on both sides of the Arm where the Flat Capture Spring holds it when it is Open or Closed. In one direction the Thumb pushes it Over the high point to Closed Position. But in the other direction it is the Cam of the Tumbler that pushes it past the high point to keep the Pan Open while firing. Not sure if you can tell, but on this Dutch Lock there is no Bottom Spring or Push Button Release. If you want I can take it down and take more pics. I'm not always the best at explaining things. BTW, awhile back you were posting about A Belt Hook on your new build. In Ricard Marti's book he gives examples of x3 different styles of hooks but also if I figured things out correctly he showed a Baldric that the Spanish use to wear and could put multiple pistols in across their chest. Also I think in Brinckerhoff's book there is an example of a Powder Horn that used a Belt Hook to hold it. Ricard's book is in Catalan, so not 100

There is a flask with a hook in his book, a bit early on the style though. I've seen the hooks swoop up down and straight long and short as well. I've opted for a lock plate similar to the 1728 regulation holster as it closely matches the period for this pistol.

 

[Henry Elwood]

There is a horn


There is a flask with a hook in his book, a bit early on the style though. I've seen the hooks swoop up down and straight long and short as well. I've opted for a lock plate similar to the 1728 regulation holster as it closely matches the period for this pistol.

Greetings,
That's great. Sounds like you've got a good handle on the subject. BTW, if you are ever in Tucson, Arizona the Arizona Historical Museum has alot of the Guns that Brinckerhoff featured in his book and the folks at the Museum were very nice. When I was there the guns were not out for public viewing but I gave them like a weeks notice and they allowed me time in the vault to see them. It was quite a treat. Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
The Dog is next. I started with some 2" Hot Roll then after roughing out the general shape I took it to the Mill to remove a bunch on metal that I knew I wouldn't need. It really makes you wonder how the 'ol Boys use to do it. My guess is this first part would have been done by Blacksmiths then passed on to the Whitesmiths/Filers to finish out. To continue removing metal I went to the Bandsaw and made little cuts then cut those cuts out, pretty straight forward. Then the Filing starts. Quickest way to remove a bunch of metal quickly is with the Half Round *******. Symmetry is the absolute so I work both at the same time and am constantly comparing them. After you get the gross shape then the details start. I again coat with DYKEM and draw it in. I've been doing this for years and early on Fred Dimke thought me about chalk on my Files and I have used it ever since. For me it's a must. Usually the second of each of the Parrs is easier but if they are Obvious-Exposed Parts the second one takes longer to make sure they look as close as possible when they sit next to each other. With whatever you call this technique I don't have any real magic to pass on , it's just watching and paying attention to the previous one.
Thanks,Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
Next, the Top Jaw. Rectangle pieces of Hot Roll were cut out then the holes for the Top Jaw Screw and starter Holes for the Rear Post were drilled. After they were established the Shape of the Top of the Jaw was started. Again starting with the Band saw. Note the Top Jaw was held in place with CA Glue so you have to be careful not to over heat while you work. After you have the Gross Shape done then you need to File out the small Rectangle for the Post. The Post is Riveted in place then location on the rear of the Top Jaw is Filed to Shape. The last 2 pics show how it looks from the inside and outside.
Thanks, Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
Top Jaw Screw. Started with 1/2"- .5" W1Drill Stock. Started with the Lathe to turn ends. The Treads were turned for a 5/16-18 Thread and the other turned to 3/8" to form Flats, and a "Collared" area. The trick is holding the Top Jaw Screw while working on the ends. Jim Chambers in class at WKU introduced us to the 5C. Collet Fixture for this sort of work. Holding it in a 3/8" Collet while turning the Threads and then turning it around to hold it while Filing the Flats for the Spanner.
Thanks, Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Greetings,
I don't know the real name for this part, I call it the Safty Cover. I knew what it looked like from the photo but not really knowing how it actually worked or shaped I carved it in Plasticine Modeling Clay first. Then back to Hot Roll. After having the Perimeter, carved the shape of the Finial. This general shape will be repeated on the Finial of the Dog Spring.
Thanks, Hank

 

[TobJohn]

You have excellent attention to the appropriate styling of these guns!

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Excellent machine work!

I don't know the real name for this part, I call it the Safety Cover.

... as good a term as any! Direct and to the point.

 

[Henry Elwood]

You have excellent attention to the appropriate styling of these guns!

Greetings,
Thank you for following. The thing that I hope folks get is how many parts are involved. It makes me wonder how many people were in the shops that originally made these. It is written that in England during the Flintlock period that there were 23 separate disciplines in making a gun. My count for this lock is 33 different pieces maybe a couple more, depending on how you count the Chain. That's alot of time and that's just in the lock. Thanks,Hank

 

[Henry Elwood]

Excellent machine work!


... as good a term as any! Direct and to the point.

Greetings,
Thanks Flint. It's interesting how when you're just looking at a photo you think it's one way but as soon as you make in something that gives you a 3 Dimensional thing in front of you things just pop out. Just fun/observation. Thanks,Hank

 

[TobJohn]

Greetings,
Thank you for following. The thing that I hope folks get is how many parts are involved. It makes me wonder how many people were in the shops that originally made these. It is written that in England during the Flintlock period that there were 23 separate disciplines in making a gun. My count for this lock is 33 different pieces maybe a couple more, depending on how you count the Chain. That's alot of time and that's just in the lock. Thanks,Hank

I've read that for some of the larger centers of gunsmithing, they would have workshops separately specializing in rough forging, filing/finishing, and engraving. It was also common, even in the 1500s, for a gunsmith to separately source locks and barrels and then assemble a complete gun. A lot of the Brescia guns have Nuremberg locks, even though the city was very experienced in lock making.

 

[Henry Elwood]

I've read that for some of the larger centers of gunsmithing, they would have workshops separately specializing in rough forging, filing/finishing, and engraving. It was also common, even in the 1500s, for a gunsmith to separately source locks and barrels and then assemble a complete gun. A lot of the Brescia guns have Nuremberg locks, even though the city was very experienced in lock making.

Thanks, yes that's how I was thinking too. There are so many things that go into these. I would think that in their day members of this/these guilds would have been doing pretty good, in an overall picture. Or at least the "Stockers".
Hank

 

[TobJohn]

Thanks, yes that's how I was thinking too. There are so many things that go into these. I would think that in their day members of this/these guilds would have been doing pretty good, in an overall picture. Or at least the "Stockers".
Hank

The most renowned gunsmith of the 16th century, Peter Pech, went from the personal gunsmith to the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, to a long stretch of poverty (mixed with base level gunsmithing/refurbishing), to a semi ceremonial court armorer role for a local prince, so even back then it was a very fickle industry.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

One recent article I posted on wheellocks said it took no less than 6 Guilds, or different Craftspersons/trades, to make a stocked wheellock.