I said Goex in my original post, I think I'm find some Scotch Brite and speed up the break in process.
For the record- Goex makes Old E, Standard Goex and Reenactor Powder. So just saying Goex doesn't say what powder you're using.
I said Goex in my original post, I think I'm find some Scotch Brite and speed up the break in process.
That makes sense then. My rifle has a squared breech plug so I'm full diameter all the way to the bottom of the barrel.I think it has to do with breech design. It's hard for me to clean all the crud out of the reduced diameter patent breech. I have been using water for cleaning then ballistol for rust prevention, come back a couple days later and the bore is full of rust which could be part of my problem .
Been there, done that. Luckily it was on a short barreled .50 I had and I was able to drive an aluminum arrow shaft over the brush and pull it out.Please use a brass brush that has been looped through the main screw in part that goes in your ramrod. It will not separate like the cheap ones, leaving you with a stuck brush in your bore with no way to get it out.
I've pumped water through the patent breeches until the water ran clean. I still got fouling from them when I stick a q-tip and a little moose milk in there. The way a q-tip fits in a 8-32, or 10-32 thread, it's not falling off, and it isn't so tight in the patent breech that it won't fall out on it's own. Try it Nate...I've never ever cleaned a patent breech. I just let the water do it for me .
I have heard of many getting implements stuck in patent breeches though
No sir thank you.I've pumped water through the patent breeches until the water ran clean. I still got fouling from them when I stick a q-tip and a little moose milk in there. The way a q-tip fits in a 8-32, or 10-32 thread, it's not falling off, and it isn't so tight in the patent breech that it won't fall out on it's own. Try it Nate...
Nate
Be that way.No sir thank you.
The water has removed the corrosive elements, the salts. All that is left behind is a little harmless carbon.
Try 777 Minch better than PyrodexHey there everyone. I am having an issue with a Pedersoli Frontier (cap-lock) I recently picked up in .36. My intention was to use it as a squirrel gun this year but until I can get this issue sorted out, the gun is not of much use. Anyway I started doing some load development using fffg Goex and right off the bat, loading was next to impossible, even with a heavy steel range rod. I wrote it off that the balls I had been using must not be larger than .350" and made an order for some Hornady .350 balls and some .010" ox-yoke patches. Well the next trip out to the range went a lot better, loading was much smoother even without swabbing the bore (I shot over 50 times that session)... The catch is, I was using Pyrodex . I even used my home cast balls and they loaded just fine too which leads me to the powder.
I would like to use real black for this rifle because well... Its real black powder! I have also read that it is easier to clean and less corrosive than Pyrodex (and this gun is a PITA to clean). The fouling with real black powder is so bad that loading is next to impossible with the rifles ramrod and really quite difficult with a range rod too, that is until the ball is halfway down and the fouling is so bad that the batch gets destroyed and the bare ball falls down the bore. Pyrodex patches look fine but the BP ones are solid black and torn up beyond recognition. Swabbing between the shots is a real chore as the patch wants to grab all the fouling on the way out and I have to use pliers to remove the rod (patch is soaked with moose milk or rubbing alcohol). At this point I might just stick with Pyrodex P and deal with the occasional hang fire and more corrosive residue. Should I try polishing the bore with scotch brite? I want a tight fit for accuracy sake so I don't really want to go looser on the patch/ball combo.
Sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any sage advice.
-Bill
Patent breeches SUCK. Pulled the breech plug on every one I had and bored them to bore diameter. Less misfires and easier cleaningNo sir thank you.
The water has removed the corrosive elements, the salts. All that is left behind is a little harmless carbon.
I have a Traditions .36 frontier that I have been shooting for over 40 years. I use 25 grains of 3f Goex, a.18 pillow ticking patch lubed with mink oil for roundball. I up it to 35 for maxi balls also lubed with mink oil. Lube your own so you know what is on it. That is the best way to keep the fouling soft.Hey there everyone. I am having an issue with a Pedersoli Frontier (cap-lock) I recently picked up in .36. My intention was to use it as a squirrel gun this year but until I can get this issue sorted out, the gun is not of much use. Anyway I started doing some load development using fffg Goex and right off the bat, loading was next to impossible, even with a heavy steel range rod. I wrote it off that the balls I had been using must not be larger than .350" and made an order for some Hornady .350 balls and some .010" ox-yoke patches. Well the next trip out to the range went a lot better, loading was much smoother even without swabbing the bore (I shot over 50 times that session)... The catch is, I was using Pyrodex . I even used my home cast balls and they loaded just fine too which leads me to the powder.
I would like to use real black for this rifle because well... Its real black powder! I have also read that it is easier to clean and less corrosive than Pyrodex (and this gun is a PITA to clean). The fouling with real black powder is so bad that loading is next to impossible with the rifles ramrod and really quite difficult with a range rod too, that is until the ball is halfway down and the fouling is so bad that the batch gets destroyed and the bare ball falls down the bore. Pyrodex patches look fine but the BP ones are solid black and torn up beyond recognition. Swabbing between the shots is a real chore as the patch wants to grab all the fouling on the way out and I have to use pliers to remove the rod (patch is soaked with moose milk or rubbing alcohol). At this point I might just stick with Pyrodex P and deal with the occasional hang fire and more corrosive residue. Should I try polishing the bore with scotch brite? I want a tight fit for accuracy sake so I don't really want to go looser on the patch/ball combo.
Sorry for the long winded post and thanks in advance for any sage advice.
-Bill
I would be willing to try but my local supplier charges almost $40 for 777.Try 777 Minch better than Pyrodex
OuchI would be willing to try but my local supplier charges almost $40 for 777.
A little WET harmless carbonNo sir thank you.
The water has removed the corrosive elements, the salts. All that is left behind is a little harmless carbon.
No sir, I use close to boiling water until gun is to hot to touch, at the breech. Soon dried .A
A little WET harmless carbon
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