billk:
The mortise's were cut with gouges and those forsner bits (the ones that cut nice circular holes with flat bottoms). But mostly with the same gouges that I carve with. The trick is to drill a series of pilot holes to a standard depth using a regular drill with a depth collar on it - well inside the lines you draw, then use gouges (going from a #8 - a lot of curve for fast removal to #3 - fairly flat) cross grain to the stop cuts at the edges of the mortise. The stop cuts I do with more gouges driven straight in. Keep at it #8s to #3s to a 1/4 chisel (scraping) until all the drill marks go away. Bingo, you have a nice flat bottom mortise. (Well, a lot of careful work and "bingo" you have a good mortise). I also put my stop cuts just inside the mortise lines and scrape the finish mortise to finished size with inletting black on the lock panel(and the lock panel has a taper filed into the edge). With careful work you should get a dead tight fit.
The forsner bits are used to then make the holes you need for the lock "guts" - that and more gouge work. Again, more inletting black to mark everything.
Side plate is a repeat of the lock, minus the "guts" and marked for depth to have 1/2 the side plate thickness exposed.
Mike F