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Misfires ,What I"m doing wrong?

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Ok make sure your vent isn't plugged and try dumping a little bit of your priming powder down the barrel. I got my daughter a Traditions PA pellet Flintlock and it shoots fine with pyrodex pellets.
 
dragoon start from the begining your standing next to me,how would you load my gun?From the begining all the way to priming......I"m a rookie
 
OK Here goes from the beginning.

1: Use your pan charger to dump a charge(or two) down the barrel.

2: Drop in your pellets.

3: Start your projectile (PRB, conical, or sabot.0

4: Use the ramrod to seat your bullet, and this is important(Sorry I didn't think of it before) DO NOT CRUSH YOUR PELLETS, BUT MAKE SURE THEIR IS NO SPACE BETWQEEN THE POWDER AND BULLET.

5: Prime your pan with about half the normal priming charge and tilt the gun so that the powder enters the vent. Then prime your pan again filling it about to the bottom of the vent.
 
OK Here goes from the beginning.

1: Use your pan charger to dump a charge(or two) down the barrel.

2: Drop in your pellets.

3: Start your projectile (PRB, conical, or sabot.0

4: Use the ramrod to seat your bullet, and this is important(Sorry I didn't think of it before) DO NOT CRUSH YOUR PELLETS, BUT MAKE SURE THEIR IS NO SPACE BETWEEN THE POWDER AND BULLET.

5: Prime your pan with about half the normal priming charge and tilt the gun so that the powder enters the vent. Then prime your pan again filling it about to the bottom of the vent.
 
Are you swabbing between shots?

If so, what are you using to clean with?

Sometimes people over dampen with water based bore cleaner and this causes the next charge to get fouled. You might try a mix of Murphey's Oil Soap and alcohol as a between shots wipe as this will dry quickly. I go easy on the soap.
Al you risk if under $5 at the store and you windf up with things that you could use anyway.

Also some people push gunk down and plug the vent hole with the damp goo since the moisture causes a damp spray to go through the only outlet for the pressure to be relieved. Go light with whatever you use for this reason.

Are you using something to clear the vent hole? I don't see how. I looked at the T/C website as I suspected a patent breech might be the problem, but the way that I see it is the Firestorm has an overly complicated vent process. Instead of a simple hole into the powder, it looks like the fire has a lot of convoluted tasks to perform before getting to the main charge. Anyone else see this?

I hope that you get it all sorted out and start making good and reliable smoke soon.

YMHS,
CrackStock
 
Crackstock,
The complicated vent is due to the neccessity of igniting Pyrodex pellets from the rear one end of the pellet has a priming composite of some sort in it. The directions for the pellets are to drop the pellets in with that end first.
 
dragoon
AFTER everything should the touchhole be completly clear after priming etc .........I know when I primed there was a alot powder covering touchhole.........


CrackStock I was cleaning nothing between shots just touchhole with pick.......
 
That might be some of your problem if you pile the priming powder above the touchhole the gun can't fire until the powder burns down to the level of the touchhole. It burns from the top down.
 
Im using Goex black powder rifle ffffg.........or should I purshase BP and use BP for everything........My lockdown time is long before shot goes off.......Example I pull trigger I count to 3 so I hold sight picture about 2 and half it goes off.

Also after priming is completed should pick touch hole and keep clear before cocking hammer?
 
I think you may have overfilled the flashpan. Try just covering the bottom of the pan with 4F, but you shouldn't have to pick after priming, or even after every shot.

It would be interesting to see if BP would have the same problem, but the pellets should work in the Firestorm.
 
CrackStock
Thankyou for your time


Goex black powder rifle ffffg........Is this ok to dump down barrel before 777 pellet or just leave it for priming..
 
Im sorry for all the questions but after shooting a muzzleloader for my first time Sunday IM hooked
 
I don't mind there's no need to apologize, and yes it's okay to put 4F down the barrel or to pour a little into the touchhole before you prime your pan.

I agree I enjoy shooting my flintlocks and C&B revolvers and it's an addictive sport.
 
How much 4f should I dump down the barrel to start,I think this my be part of my problem getting them 777 firing..What do you do after gun shot to next shot cleaning etc....
 
OK Here goes from the beginning.

1: Use your pan charger to dump a charge(or two) down the barrel.
Deerheaven,.... I'm sure Dragoon means to "dump a charge (or two) down the barrel",.... from his prime'n horn with the liddle spring loaded nozzle, which would ONLY amount to 3-10 grs. of FFFFG (depend'n on which small nozzle a feller has on his prime'n horn).

Maybe you already unnerstood this, but I thot I'd mention it "jest in case".


YMHS
rollingb
 
I normally use one or two pushes on the pan charger, that's probably 5-10 grains. I don't worry too much about cleaning between shots, I occassionally( every 4-5 shots run a damp patch through the barrel.) I sometimes wet the patch with a little bit of water based solvent or plain old saliva. That gets most of the gunk out and keeps it from getting too difficult to load.
 
I looked at the T/C pic of the Firestorm again and I see how it works in theory. I still think that it lends itself to fouling and is over engineered in order to facilitate an unnecessary powder pellet mandate. It also removes the ability to use a breechface scraper You might need some sort of breech cleaning device such as a stiff brush to clean the edges of that inverted cone. That little groove seems very important and also very likely to fould quickly.

Also, if you ram the pellet down hard, you spear the pellet onto the spike of the cone which is then pressed down until it blocks the supposed flash circle which destroys the advantage of the design. Not so? Think it through. Took me about 3 minutes. On the other hand, I could be wrong.

Back to the loading proceedure, you should pick the flash hole to make sure that it is clear. In a traditional ML, you would feel dry powder granules inside the breech area. A very happy feeling to a flintlock shooter.

You do not want to put too much prime in the pan. A little goes a long way. I like 4f Goex, but have used 3f without a problem. Your flash hole should not have fouling or fresh powder in it. This would make a slow burning fuse whereas you want a quick flash through the air in the flash hole.

As to the use of 4f as a very small initial charge for the pellets. Cheap insurance in my view as long as you stay well under the manufacturers maximum total load. 4f is very potent and spikes quickly in the pressure it develops. You should look at the T/C or Hogdon literature here. Also, not all pan chargers are created equally. I have spouts in two sizes -- 1 grain and 3 grain. Some ML shooter "experts" used to recommend an initial charge of about 5 grains (if I recall correctly) of black powder to get the pyrodex to fire reliably in a flinter. That may have even been on the Pyrodex site, but their instructions link is down at the moment.

I started with Pyrodex and still have over half a can that is well over a decade old. I was a cap only shooter then, so the duplex loading was not something that I know from my own experience. I did see people try it as a range officer and it seemed to work okay. Pyrodex was not accurate for me and I seemed to have trouble keeping my bore from rusting after using it. I went to real BP and have not had trouble since.

I also do not like pellets. I view them as a "one lump or two?" situation when I want to tweak the powder load to just the right amount.

In any event, DO NOT LOAD with only 4f Goex. That is a very fine priming powder and too finely ground for use as a main charge. Yoy would be risking your safety and the gun if you did this. I would buy a can of Goex 3f as a main charge for your .50. (It is a .50 -- isn't it?)

YMHS,
CrackStock
 
See'ns how I'm only familiar traditional flintlocks and ther simple design, can sumbuddy explain the follow'n thet I got from T/C's website?????

____________________________________________________________
"The Patented Pyrodex
 

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