My Kibler SMR Build Log

[wiscoaster]

Oh I get it.. I just don't think you get it...

...

I understand your point, and I don't belittle it; it's valid, and it's good advice, it's just not my way in many things that guide me in how I do what I do, and I think maybe you missed that, which was clearly pointed out early in the thread.

everybody else, please listen to Jack

... but the Japanese did lose the war? ...

 

[wiscoaster]

If everybody doesn't clearly "get" what this log is about, then the concerns that it may mislead new builders are valid, and I share that concern. And I'm not going to continuously and repeatedly try to clarify, explain and defend what I'm doing here. Therefore, I'm willing and content to concede to the wishes of the majority of the forum community if they wish me to terminate this log. I've posted a poll:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/should-i-discontinue-my-build-log.166615/You have a week.

 

[OldRust]

Not into Poll's I find them annoying <G> If you enjoy doing it keep it up. If you post a mistake, you will be corrected. Sometimes you will be corrected when it's not a mistake, but I believe you have been on the forum long enough to know who to listen to and who to ignore. If you don't continue, I believe you could miss out on some valuable information from our SME's Subject Matter Experts.

Don't expect much input from me on your build. I'm just a student and I'm following your log and enjoying it.

Thanks,
O.R.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log Update

More Metal Finish Testing

I've been trying out the Laurel Mountain Forge rust browing product on my trigger guard. This product appeals to me because its color change is gradual and I can easily stop it where I want it and not back track. Also, no heating of the browned item is required. On the flip side, there is that three-hour wait between applications.

Here's the back end of the trigger guard after the fifth application (and before scaling following that application, as per directions):

I think this is the effect that I prefer, and it's almost there, though it's still blotchy. But then maybe I could pass off the blotch as "simulated authentic patina". Hah. And what is it with this "scaling" they have me do after each three hours? It seems to do absolutely nada. With the Plum Brown product I "carded", ie rubbed the surface with an abrasive, such as steel wool, a procedure that removed the excess rust, before the next application. I felt like I was actually doing something.

Maybe I'll just throw this whole thing in the oven and see what Plum Brown does to it. But then, that leaves the barrel, and I can't used that method.

 

[NRFord]

Build Log Update

More Metal Finish Testing

I've been trying out the Laurel Mountain Forge rust browing product on my trigger guard. This product appeals to me because its color change is gradual and I can easily stop it where I want it and not back track. Also, no heating of the browned item is required. On the flip side, there is that three-hour wait between applications.

Here's the back end of the trigger guard after the fifth application (and before scaling following that application, as per directions):
View attachment 236933

I think this is the effect that I prefer, and it's almost there, though it's still blotchy. But then maybe I could pass off the blotch as "simulated authentic patina". Hah. And what is it with this "scaling" they have me do after each three hours? It seems to do absolutely nada. With the Plum Brown product I "carded", ie rubbed the surface with an abrasive, such as steel wool, a procedure that removed the excess rust, before the next application. I felt like I was actually doing something.

Maybe I'll just throw this whole thing in the oven and see what Plum Brown does to it. But then, that leaves the barrel, and I can't used that method.

read directions again please.
#1) first coat allow to work 3-24 hours
#2) second coat allow to work 3-12 hrs
#3) scale or "card"
#4) repeat procedure to achieve desired result
recommend you use bathroom shower to increase humidity and tempurature. Patience with this process pays off!! I know, you seem to have little of that...

 

[Flintandsteel]

Wow, I don’t even know what to say anymore.
Here we are 9 pages into a 2 hour project, and any time any one offers input, there is an explanation as to why it has no merit.
I guess if all you have is time, to do and redo, go for it. OR, listen to a few suggestions from those who know.
Just saying.

 

[wiscoaster]

read directions again please.

I retyped and posted the directions included with the product here:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/my-kibler-smr-build-log.166072/#post-2375959Those directions say three hours; sorry, but the steps you outline conflict with the directions included with the product; those directions I've been following to the letter. Maybe you're looking at different directions than the ones I got? Which directions should I be reading again?

 

[wiscoaster]

Wow, I don’t even know what to say anymore.
....
Just saying.

??

 

[NRFord]

I retyped and posted the directions included with the product here:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/my-kibler-smr-build-log.166072/#post-2375959Those directions say three hours; the steps you outline conflict with the directions included with the product; those directions I've been following to the letter.

Whatever you say. I guess my understanding of LMF written directions and English language is totally wrong. PLEASE RE-READ LMF DIRECTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AS I JUST DID TO LET YOU KNOW...

I also read your convoluted re-interpretation of said instructions.

 

[Flintandsteel]

LMF is very versatile. 3 hour intervals will result in a smoother, finer grained finish.
12 hour intervals will achieve a deeper, more coarse finish.
You can use any combination of the above to your needs.
Good stuff.

 

[64Springer]

Build Log Update

More Metal Finish Testing

I've been trying out the Laurel Mountain Forge rust browing product on my trigger guard. This product appeals to me because its color change is gradual and I can easily stop it where I want it and not back track. Also, no heating of the browned item is required. On the flip side, there is that three-hour wait between applications.

Here's the back end of the trigger guard after the fifth application (and before scaling following that application, as per directions):
View attachment 236933

I think this is the effect that I prefer, and it's almost there, though it's still blotchy. But then maybe I could pass off the blotch as "simulated authentic patina". Hah. And what is it with this "scaling" they have me do after each three hours? It seems to do absolutely nada. With the Plum Brown product I "carded", ie rubbed the surface with an abrasive, such as steel wool, a procedure that removed the excess rust, before the next application. I felt like I was actually doing something.

Maybe I'll just throw this whole thing in the oven and see what Plum Brown does to it. But then, that leaves the barrel, and I can't used that method.

If that's what you get with five applications of LMF, note to self, do not buy any LMF products.

Half this country has Butt Crack Heat going on right now. Stick it outside and your "Patina" AKA "Rust" will be there in no time.

 

[wiscoaster]

Whatever you say. I guess my understanding of LMF written directions and English language is totally wrong. PLEASE RE-READ LMF DIRECTIONS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! AS I JUST DID TO LET YOU KNOW...

Well, OK, then, whose directions are these? They're not the same as what you're reading:

 

[wiscoaster]

LMF is very versatile. 3 hour intervals will result in a smoother, finer grained finish.
12 hour intervals will achieve a deeper, more coarse finish.
You can use any combination of the above to your needs.
Good stuff.

Thank you, now that's a helpful suggestion.

 

[NRFord]

Well, OK, then, whose directions are these? They're not the same as what you're reading:

It's obvious you have online access. Go to LMF website and read the online product directions. Much more thorough information there.
I believe this was mentioned in your thread that included your rewrite of their included instructions...

 

[Flintandsteel]

https://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm
These are the ones I’ve always used. Second coat says 3-12 hrs., not to exceed 24hrs.
This is exactly what I was referring to before.

 

[NRFord]

LMF is very versatile. 3 hour intervals will result in a smoother, finer grained finish.
12 hour intervals will achieve a deeper, more coarse finish.
You can use any combination of the above to your needs.
Good stuff.

I believe heavier coats of product has more of a factor than time on coarseness of finish.
Wiscoaster is also perhaps carding(scaling) to much. He says he is using steelwool. I used burlap and had wonderful success. Also have heard builders using denim.

 

[Jaeger73]

If you take your steel wool and clean it with some acetone that will remove the oil that is applied from the manufacturer. Don't forget to neutralize your parts that you are browning and then coat them in a nice coat of oil.

 

[Flintandsteel]

NRFORD,
read your instructions again.
My preference is a Drixel scratch wheel. Very fine bristled wire brush, specifically for carding browning.

 

[wiscoaster]

...He says he is using steelwool.

No, that's what I used with Plum Brown, as I mentioned. With LMF I'm using coarse cloth (denim, actually), as my set of directions I was provided with calls for, and which I was following to the letter.

Thanks to those that suggested more flexible and varied options to the methods. No thanks to those that just accused me of not reading the directions.

 

[wiscoaster]

If you take your steel wool and clean it with some acetone that will remove the oil that is applied from the manufacturer.

Yes, thanks for the reminder. I believe I mentioned that in some other post.