Yes, that's the final option planned if need be. Thanks for the encouragement.
My Kibler SMR Build Log
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I would definitely recommend it. I was able to build one as a somewhat novice and in the end had a beautiful and very high end rifle. Just watch the build videos a few times (wasn't a problem for me since I was so excited while waiting for the delivery) and pay close attention to them.
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While my intent is not to provide a rifle build "how-to", but I certainly intend to seed it with a few tips and tricks I've learned from other projects, eg the one-off sanding blocks and the testing of various stain ideas on wood samples. It's really great that Kibler provides samples for builders to test on. What other kit maker would do that? I think this thread is actually a positive for Kibler Long Rifles, but that's just my opinion. I think it correlates to the approach any newbie rifle builder would take. There are both positives and there are pitfalls in that approach. Any new learning is biased by previous learning. Sometimes it helps; sometimes it hurts. You can't completely filter it out.
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No, it's just stretching out the fun where the process itself is a major enjoyment.
You wouldn't want Jim Kibler to make a snap-together kit now would you? I wouldn't either. Been there, done that, and after it's all snapped together I lost interest.
I have assembled all three of the Kibler rifles. In my opinion, as long as you are building a basic rifle, the Woodsrunner should take no longer than 2-1/2 to 3 hours to have the gun sanded and ready for finish and the metal polished. The Southern Mountain Rifle maybe an hour longer. The Colonial maybe 4 to 4-1/2 hours. The additional time for the Colonial is in polishing the brass.
All three of my rifles went together without problem. If there is a problem with fit I would bet that it was self induced not as a result of manufacturing.
These gun kits are the easiest things to put together.
All three of my rifles went together without problem. If there is a problem with fit I would bet that it was self induced not as a result of manufacturing.
These gun kits are the easiest things to put together.
The SMR has my interest because of the sleek design, just got to read up some more on stuff like drilling the pins. Got a lot of experience reworking old rifles just not too much on ML rifles other than the TC brand.
My woodsrunner has been hanging on the wall for the past few weeks, all snapped together and awaiting my time to polish the brass, finish the lock and barrel, stain and finish, and trim/taper the pins. I was going to do it after the .32 but now that that is done, I got sidetracked by a different inspiration.
I think it's calling out to you to get polished up and shot!!
Build Log #13
Metallica
While awaiting final resolution on the butt stock situation, I decided to pursue metal finishing. I haven't decided yet on the finishing method for the iron hardware. I do know I want to rust brown the barrel.
I conscripted the trigger guard to be the victim of my finishing experiments:
As you can see, I've already started and then backtracked (front inlet plate was browned and then unbrowned). First step is to smooth out and shine up the casting surface. I tried a steel brush:
... with minimal results. Now, I know you traditionalists are going to shudder at my next move, but a Dremel is a very handy tool, if used
conservatively with a light touch. And, of course, it can be the exact opposite. I like these quick-attach sanding disks:
120 grit proved to be a bit much, and after some light work with 240 grit:
Time now for some sandpaper action. I like to tape a strip of duct tape across the back of some sandpaper cut to fit and use it as a kind of a sanding strap. With the added strength, and the flexibility of the duct tape, considerable force can be exerted uniformly across a curved surface:
So after 320, then 500, then 1000 grit:
Excuse the glare. I may actually have to scratch this up a bit more, depending on the test finish method.
Metallica
While awaiting final resolution on the butt stock situation, I decided to pursue metal finishing. I haven't decided yet on the finishing method for the iron hardware. I do know I want to rust brown the barrel.
I conscripted the trigger guard to be the victim of my finishing experiments:
As you can see, I've already started and then backtracked (front inlet plate was browned and then unbrowned). First step is to smooth out and shine up the casting surface. I tried a steel brush:
... with minimal results. Now, I know you traditionalists are going to shudder at my next move, but a Dremel is a very handy tool, if used
conservatively with a light touch. And, of course, it can be the exact opposite. I like these quick-attach sanding disks:
120 grit proved to be a bit much, and after some light work with 240 grit:
Time now for some sandpaper action. I like to tape a strip of duct tape across the back of some sandpaper cut to fit and use it as a kind of a sanding strap. With the added strength, and the flexibility of the duct tape, considerable force can be exerted uniformly across a curved surface:
So after 320, then 500, then 1000 grit:
Excuse the glare. I may actually have to scratch this up a bit more, depending on the test finish method.
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Sorry, I'm just guessing, but you guys that assemble these rifle kits in four hours either/and/or:
1) have build other rifles before
2) have plenty of previous woodworking and metal working experience
3) have a well-equipped shop with all the materials and tools ready to hand
4) have no physical or health-related limitations that slow you down
Sorry again, but I just don't think that's a perspective that's coming from a newbie's perspective, or even an age and health related perspective. If it's the later case, you'll have your turn in due time.
To each his own, as you say.
I have all that and it still took me 25-30 hours to completely finish it, most of that was in the TG and buttplate finishing. I never built a longrifle before (why I chose a Kibler kit to start) but have done plenty of stocks from trees, boards, and complete metal refinishes before. I don't do it for a living, though.
1. Yes, I have built around 30 rifles, most of them in the late 70s early 80s. Eight were scratch build the rest kits.
2. Yes, Industrial Arts major in college. My work has been in the field of quality assurance. But I am a wood carver.
3. Not really, but there is no real need with a Kibler kit. Just basic tools and a sharp chisel.
4. Healthy for my age.
You just need to watch the videos and if it doesn't seem right stop. Look at the video again. These are production made with CNC equipment. They are all the same. If there was a fit problem it would have been corrected this late in production. Jim is not going to jeopardize his or his company name by sending out sub par products.
I agree.
I've watched the videos multiple times. Different people get different things from the same communication. Surely you know of the old wives' tale about five witnesses to the same murder identifying five different suspects?
The videos are not at fault. The viewers are not at fault. What's at fault is when one person assumes another person got the same message they did. The message any one person receives is subject to filtering bias by their own personal life experiences.
Thank you for clarifying and enumerating your filters.
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Not trying to criticize, just trying to make it easier. Life is too short. All is good as long as you are having fun. That is the main thing.
WhaleTail
32 Cal
A valid point, and partly why as a novice I chose to quietly build mine and only share the finished result.
So as another of the many examples of what is possible with novice hands and the unparalleled quality of a Kibler kit, here’s my SMR. Received the kit in mid-April and finished it (perhaps fittingly) on the 4th of July.
Like the OP I tend to be impatiently-natured. All the more reason to measure twice and cut once.
To the OP: you definitely have an eye for detail. I’m sure your end result will be a rifle to be proud of!
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Am enjoying this thread, hoping to at some point to put my own together. Having absolutley 0 experience with building guns, is interesting to hear your experiences and how you've adapted to challenges, whether self-induced or otherwise. My dad was a gunsmith and some of the earliest guns I hunted with were restocked by him to protect the original equipment being they were fairly collectable lever-guns but was way to young to glean any information or knowledge from him. Best of luck and please keep us posted. Thanks.
That's not only a gorgeous stock, it's gorgeous metal work. May I ask which metal finishing method you used? Thanks!!
Thanks. Appreciate the encouragement. I might, however, cut back on the frequency and detail. It's rather time consuming to take and then post all those pics.
Kmcmichael
45 Cal.
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Put the gun together the way you want. You bought it. We are here to support you in this endeavor.
You must understand that many of us have put numerous Kiblers together and have brand loyalty bordering on the extreme. We have put other kits together and understand how far ahead these are. The Woodsrunner is rather mind boggling. Honestly I think if he could put some magnets in strategic places, one could throw the parts in the air and catch a shootable rifle! It is indeed shocking that one had to redrill the buttplate hole. Cast buttplates will always have to be fitted. Do not be afraid to bend, hammer or curse the metal.
I was given some advice years ago on this. Steady as she goes. If you run into a problem, think on it overnight. Likely the solution will come to you. I remember being enroute to the toilet at 2 AM and realizing the tang on a Traditions kit was twisted and this was the only possible conclusion. I had briefly tried to fit the barrel in the stock.
Most could put these kits together and start applying finish the same day. Why? Do you gulp 35 year old Scotch.
Enjoy the experience.
You must understand that many of us have put numerous Kiblers together and have brand loyalty bordering on the extreme. We have put other kits together and understand how far ahead these are. The Woodsrunner is rather mind boggling. Honestly I think if he could put some magnets in strategic places, one could throw the parts in the air and catch a shootable rifle! It is indeed shocking that one had to redrill the buttplate hole. Cast buttplates will always have to be fitted. Do not be afraid to bend, hammer or curse the metal.
I was given some advice years ago on this. Steady as she goes. If you run into a problem, think on it overnight. Likely the solution will come to you. I remember being enroute to the toilet at 2 AM and realizing the tang on a Traditions kit was twisted and this was the only possible conclusion. I had briefly tried to fit the barrel in the stock.
Most could put these kits together and start applying finish the same day. Why? Do you gulp 35 year old Scotch.
Enjoy the experience.
The SMR I put together was a very early one with a 46" Rice barrel, Chambers lock and cast furniture, it did take a lot of finish inletting. I had built 3 other guns to this point, two from a block of wood with the barrel inletted and ramrod hole done by Fred Miller and one from a precarve that was not a kit.
It took me about 12 hours to complete the Kibler, still a cake walk compared to my other builds. I suspect the later SMR kits have been refined a bit since I put mine together.
It took me about 12 hours to complete the Kibler, still a cake walk compared to my other builds. I suspect the later SMR kits have been refined a bit since I put mine together.
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