My Kibler SMR Build Log

[wiscoaster]

... Do you gulp 35 year old Scotch.
Enjoy the experience.

Now there's an analogy I can relate.

though I can't hardly afford the experience any more these days

 

[mikesto44]

Interesting post....just wondering if Jim Kibler is thinking...." How much easier can I make these kits...? ". JMPO

 

[TDM]

Interesting post....just wondering if Jim Kibler is thinking...." How much easier can I make these kits...? ". JMPO

I think your right.

 

[WhaleTail]

That's not only a gorgeous stock, it's gorgeous metal work. May I ask which metal finishing method you used? Thanks!!

Thanks! All metal finish is 2-3 coatings of Jax Black rubbed back with 0000 wool and Scotch-Brite

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log #14

More Staining

Testing some more stains today using the General Finishes water-based dye stain product. I guess you might say these are kind of the "ready-mixed" versions of Transtint. Anyway, I've had good results with this product before on other projects, but I've never used them on walnut.
So I prepped and then stained two coats, like before, except with the added step of steel wooling after each coat due to the water-based nature of the product to raise the grain. I then burnished and applied a quickie light coat of oil. I'm sorry but it was just impossible to get a decent and representative pic due to lighting. But left to right are dark red, light red, yellow and yellow plus red. I'm favoring the yellow plus red. I also did one piece in black, with which I might experiment with some grain enhancement techniques I've also used before, but again never on walnut. I don't think walnut is a good wood for these techniques, so my hopes aren't high.

 

[wiscoaster]

Interesting post....just wondering if Jim Kibler is thinking...." How much easier can I make these kits...? ". JMPO

If I can detach log from comment response, my input would be to include two of each tang screws. He already includes extra butt plate screws. The tang screws go in and come out multiple times while you're fitting and finishing, so they stand a high probability of eventually getting boogered by such ham-handed individuals as myself. That's the only suggestion for improvement I see needs being made at this point. Sure, that would bump the kit price by $10, but what's that - a drop in the bucket. I'm ordering extras of each today, not because I've boogered the ones I've got, but just as on-hand backups in case I do.

 

[IanH]

I ordered a few extra things when I ordered my kit such as a few ramrods and tips, extra front sight, and a few other things. However, for the tang bolts, all one needs to do for finishing operations is go to the hardware store and obtain a small package of 8-32x2" plated stove bolts and substitute two of them for the tang bolts.

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Put the gun !together the way you want. You bought it. We are here to support you in this endeavor.
You must understand that many of us have put numerous Kiblers together and have brand loyalty bordering on the extreme. We have put other kits together and understand how far ahead these are. The Woodsrunner is rather mind boggling. Honestly I think if he could put some magnets in strategic places, one could throw the parts in the air and catch a shootable rifle! It is indeed shocking that one had to redrill the buttplate hole. Cast buttplates will always have to be fitted. Do not be afraid to bend, hammer or curse the metal.
I was given some advice years ago on this. Steady as she goes. If you run into a problem, think on it overnight. Likely the solution will come to you. I remember being enroute to the toilet at 2 AM and realizing the tang on a Traditions kit was twisted and this was the only possible conclusion. I had briefly tried to fit the barrel in the stock.
Most could put these kits together and start applying finish the same day. Why? Do you gulp 35 year old Scotch.
Enjoy the experience.

Yeah, I agree with you, I've put 3 of his kits together and the last one was an SMR which I posted on here and when I looked at the pic's realized i needed to sand the wood better. So, I took it all apart and redid the whole gun again, I'll have to post pic's again....!

 

[TDM]

Yeah, I agree with you, I've put 3 of his kits together and the last one was an SMR which I posted on here and when I looked at the pic's realized i needed to sand the wood better. So, I took it all apart and redid the whole gun again, I'll have to post pic's again....!

Rich you hit the nail on the head. When you "finish" a build and one decides they really aren't happy it it, a do over is in order. I have one early build I did that I plan to give the do over treatment to.

 

[wiscoaster]

Log #14 Addendum

Took another pic in shaded natural light at angle of least glare:

It's the one at lower left I'm favoring at the moment.

 

[wiscoaster]

....However, for the tang bolts, all one needs to do for finishing operations is go to the hardware store and obtain a small package of 8-32x2" plated stove bolts and substitute two of them for the tang bolts.

Yes, I'm doing that this afternoon. And a couple flat washers and nuts of the proper size. So I can keep the barrel in without the trigger plate during finish sanding and staining and not worry about banging up the triggers.

Thanks for supplying the correct size. I'm getting a couple extra butt plate screws as well.

yes, I've already boogered one butt plate screw. good thing he provides extras.

 

[yellowhammer]

...In my opinion, as long as you are building a basic rifle, the Woodsrunner should take no longer than 2-1/2 to 3 hours to have the gun sanded and ready for finish and the metal polished...

Dang. Speedy Gonzales.

 

[Pratt]

I have my own ideas about building. Get the feel of each part. Feel the grain of the stock. Feel the pores of the metal. You will have the piece for the rest of your life . Get acquainted.

 

[Tenring]

A green twig will seal the touchhole the best, toothpicks leak. I cut a small twig off a dogwood outside my shop, whittle it down and tap it into the touch hole, being green if conforms to the touchhole. I do give the inside of the barrel a thick coat of RIG grease before I start browning, this is probably not necessary because I have never had a leak but I err to the side of caution on these things.

I think you are over thinking the browning process. I hang the barrel from a string through the tang bolt hole in my shop, muzzle down and wipe on the LMF with a small square piece of rag, you don't saturate the barrel, just wipe on thin coats.

I plug the barrel with a piece of cedar I made for the purpose, the soft wood conforms to the bore when I tap it in. I oil the end that goes in the barrel and clean the metal around the plug with acetone before I start the browning process.

View attachment 234371

Exactly what I do, hang from the basement rafter and plug the end works outstanding no need to go overboard I would think.

 

[wiscoaster]

Log #14 Addendum #2

Even yet more stain sample, using the remaining walnut scraps, and various colors of traditional penetrating wood stains I already have on hand. And again, I've used these in previous projects, but never on walnut. Surface prep was the same as before, but stained with just one application, brief soak, and light wipe. Since it's oil, I really have to let these set overnight before I put a finish over them:

I think the red chestnut, the gunstock and the light walnut show some promise. I still have three more sides of walnut scrap I can finalize on.

 

[Eric Krewson]

For me walnut needs the pores filled before staining, others may like the open pore effect. Then again, I don't stain walnut (I like your color choice), I put on Birchwood Casey Walnut sealer and sand it back to bare wood, it takes 5 or 6 applications to fill the pores, then I apply the finish.

Not the best picture but this is what the wood looks like after being sealed and finished, no open pores.

My sealed and finished SMR, I don't have a close-up to show the slick surface, I sold the gun a year ago. the date stamp on the picture is wrong.

 

[wiscoaster]

Build Log #15

Stock Scraper

I happened to stumble across a short video on the Kibler Long Rifles website (link below) where Jim demonstrates making and using a tool to scrape the milling marks out of the stock. (I was actually looking for a video on metal finishing.) This scraping technique is completely new to me, though I can immediately see the advantages over sanding blocks or files.

First, to scrounge around and find a candidate. I came up with these:

I went with the brass, because it's more flexible, and it's the flex around a curved surface that's the main advantage, as I see it. I cut down to size with a Dremel cutting wheel because that leaves an edge needing the least dressing:

This is the scraping edge, prepped per the video:

This is the target area, picked for easy to see marks:

Scraping away:

And done?

Ya!! Gone!! I like this!!

This test brass was a bit too small to make flexing easy, and especially with thumb arthritis. Also its edge wears fast. I had to touch up with a sharpening stone twice. Maybe later we'll see what we can dig up at the hardware store instead of in the basement.

But now time for breakfast.

Here's the video:

 

[wiscoaster]

For me walnut needs the pores filled before staining,

Yes, thanks for reminding me; I've taken that approach on other projects, but it's slipped my mind so far on this one. I still have three unsanded surfaces and maybe I'll try that out on them.

 

[smokepolehall]

Sorry, I'm just guessing, but you guys that assemble these rifle kits in four hours either/and/or:
1) have build other rifles before
2) have plenty of previous woodworking and metal working experience
3) have a well-equipped shop with all the materials and tools ready to hand
4) have no physical or health-related limitations that slow you down

Sorry again, but I just don't think that's a perspective that's coming from a newbie's perspective, or even an age and health related perspective. If it's the later case, you'll have your turn in due time.

To each his own, as you say.

I agree with your list here. I spent 1 hour using 320 grit sandpaper working my barrel down from milling marks. I managed to get 1' polished smooth on the top flat. At this rate it will take me about 25 hours on the barrel.

 

[wiscoaster]

I agree with your list here. I spent 1 hour using 320 grit sandpaper working my barrel down from milling marks. I managed to get 1' polished smooth on the top flat. At this rate it will take me about 25 hours on the barrel.

I hear ya. Here's the Kibler video on draw filing:

That's the technique I plan to use. They say it goes much faster. We'll see.

... if there's a way to stretch it out, leave it to me ...