My Kibler SMR Build Log
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Build Log #16
Butt Fits
I've got the butt plate fit and installed. I didn't need to go with the final option on repairing the top screw holes. No, the plate isn't perfectly flush all around, but it's much improved since I took a rubber mallet to its curved section and gave it a few whacks in a couple places. Maybe it still needs one more. And, like the man said, don't torque down those top screws into the JB Weld too tight. Anyway for now, the top lines up perfectly with the tang, and so it's good enough to proceed with stock sanding in that area when I get to it. I found the Sharpie transfer marking to be very helpful. You don't even need to refresh it every time you mark. I'm a real convert to the transfer marking method. No more of this "by look and by feel" stuff for me.
After I finished this I realized I hadn't gone shooting all week. Maybe I gotta take a day off from my build and see if I still know how to shoot.
Butt Fits
I've got the butt plate fit and installed. I didn't need to go with the final option on repairing the top screw holes. No, the plate isn't perfectly flush all around, but it's much improved since I took a rubber mallet to its curved section and gave it a few whacks in a couple places. Maybe it still needs one more. And, like the man said, don't torque down those top screws into the JB Weld too tight. Anyway for now, the top lines up perfectly with the tang, and so it's good enough to proceed with stock sanding in that area when I get to it. I found the Sharpie transfer marking to be very helpful. You don't even need to refresh it every time you mark. I'm a real convert to the transfer marking method. No more of this "by look and by feel" stuff for me.
After I finished this I realized I hadn't gone shooting all week. Maybe I gotta take a day off from my build and see if I still know how to shoot.
I watched the video & applied the method to my barrel. James has much more experiance doing it, place his file is in better condition than mine. Took me about 30 minutes to get 2 flats done. My milling cuts are deeper than the barrel in James video. All in all a figure a 4 hour time period vs the 25 i was looking at is good deal.
Mgbruch
40 Cal
I just read this whole thread; and now I have a headache.
All I can say is... this is a good thread on how Not to approach assembling a kit; and what not to do.
Ready... Fire... Aim!
All I can say is... this is a good thread on how Not to approach assembling a kit; and what not to do.
Ready... Fire... Aim!
Good!! Thank you. Then it's serving some purpose other than merely entertainment.
Take two aspiring and call me in the morning.
Build Log #17
Metal Testing
Just a quickie this morning. I'm undecided on which metal finishing treatment I'm going to use. The Jax Black product interests me because of its speed and ease of application. But I want to see how it looks on my metal on my rifle. So, I volunteered my butt plate for metal finish testing. I think this product does best on a polished finish, so I polish up and clean one side of the butt plate:
One extra benefit of polishing is that you discover the surface is not nearly as smooth and perfect as you thought it was!!
So, I get set up with the appropriate tools and materials:
After a single application and rinse it looks a little streaky:
I do some steel wooling and a second application and rinse. Note that if steel wool is used in between coats, the item needs to be recleaned before the next application:
That's a more consistent appearance, but a little darker than I want, so I do more steel wooling, then clean, then oil, then lay it on the butt stock to see what it looks like:
Hmmm. Maybe I steel wooled a little too much or too hard. But I'm not sure if that's the "look" I want. Sigh. Will have to do another test with another product, I guess.
But, meanwhile, Бубски is calling out to me for some rounds through his barrel:
Бубски ("Bubski") is a rather ratty and mismatched Norinco SKS that I've bubba'ed into an SG Works bullpup chassis.
Metal Testing
Just a quickie this morning. I'm undecided on which metal finishing treatment I'm going to use. The Jax Black product interests me because of its speed and ease of application. But I want to see how it looks on my metal on my rifle. So, I volunteered my butt plate for metal finish testing. I think this product does best on a polished finish, so I polish up and clean one side of the butt plate:
One extra benefit of polishing is that you discover the surface is not nearly as smooth and perfect as you thought it was!!
So, I get set up with the appropriate tools and materials:
After a single application and rinse it looks a little streaky:
I do some steel wooling and a second application and rinse. Note that if steel wool is used in between coats, the item needs to be recleaned before the next application:
That's a more consistent appearance, but a little darker than I want, so I do more steel wooling, then clean, then oil, then lay it on the butt stock to see what it looks like:
Hmmm. Maybe I steel wooled a little too much or too hard. But I'm not sure if that's the "look" I want. Sigh. Will have to do another test with another product, I guess.
But, meanwhile, Бубски is calling out to me for some rounds through his barrel:
Бубски ("Bubski") is a rather ratty and mismatched Norinco SKS that I've bubba'ed into an SG Works bullpup chassis.
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I like it. Thank you the build along. I'm almost ready pull the trigger on smr
Pull it. You won't be disappointed.
AppalachianRowlet
32 Cal
Can't wait to see how that walnut turns out
Build Log #18
Pipe Fitting
I've got them numbered:
... because fit depends on position.
Made a little sanding block for the ramrod channel:
... from the over-length ramrod dowel.
If the ramrod dowel is a little too fat to fit the pipes:
... stick it in a drill and spin it against sandpaper.
A Dremel can be your friend or your enemy. Here, the cutter fits the channel perfectly, and could be used to clean and square the inlet:
... but be very, very cautious and use a low speed with a very, very light touch. One little twitch and you're through the side of the inlet and your stock is ruined.
Transfer marking with a Sharpie:
But don't forget to mark the ends, because that's the real clue about what needs trimming:
... because you can see the end of the pipe isn't centered on the channel. I found that this pipe's tab needed some faily considerable filing to get the pipe centered and flush with the channel.
But regardless of pipe fit shown by marking your final test for fit is whether or not the ramrod goes through the pipe and into the stock:
Pipe Fitting
I've got them numbered:
... because fit depends on position.
Made a little sanding block for the ramrod channel:
... from the over-length ramrod dowel.
If the ramrod dowel is a little too fat to fit the pipes:
... stick it in a drill and spin it against sandpaper.
A Dremel can be your friend or your enemy. Here, the cutter fits the channel perfectly, and could be used to clean and square the inlet:
... but be very, very cautious and use a low speed with a very, very light touch. One little twitch and you're through the side of the inlet and your stock is ruined.
Transfer marking with a Sharpie:
But don't forget to mark the ends, because that's the real clue about what needs trimming:
... because you can see the end of the pipe isn't centered on the channel. I found that this pipe's tab needed some faily considerable filing to get the pipe centered and flush with the channel.
But regardless of pipe fit shown by marking your final test for fit is whether or not the ramrod goes through the pipe and into the stock:
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Not sure why you’re finishing metal at this point? You still have wood to remove, up to those parts. That will damage whatever finish you put on the metal.
Put it all together first, file and sand, then finish wood and metal at that point.
Put it all together first, file and sand, then finish wood and metal at that point.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
You say this is a "log" not intended to be a "how to guide" yet you wrote this last entry as a set of instructions. This is "NOT" a proper way to inlet ramrod pipes or any part of a gun stock. Never use a Dremel for inletting. It is a recipe for disaster!
We have tried to help, but you can lead a horse to water you can't make him drink.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
Jim tried too and he won't listen...
It's testing various products and methods to decide which to use for finish. I thought I made that clear?
Don't worry; I fully intend to sand and finish the stock before I finish the metal.
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At this point I personally I don't care what he does or how he does it to his gun. I just don't want him misleading others.
All right, it's intended to be a log of what I'm doing; I thought I also made it clear previously that it wasn't a "how to", but wrt this log entry, you probably make a valid point. I'll try to be more discreet with my wording in the future, and I hope that accomodates you guys that aren't getting the full context of the entire thread.
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Neither do I. I'm just sorry you're being mislead by not reading the commentary carefully enough. Probably best that you don't care.
You probably led your horse to a stream contaminated by runoff from a toxic waste dump, and he was smarter than you.
Hatchet-Jack
54 Cal.
Oh I get it.. I just don't think you get it...
Here's a thought, ask those with experience how to do something before just guessing and screwing it up? Don't push back on experience when it's being offered to you. There are builders on here with years of experience you can leverage. They want you to succeed, they want education here. You're the pupil not the teacher. Use Japanese wisdom "Go and see, ask why, show respect".
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