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Pyrodex...will somebody please explain?

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Actually blackhorn has a coating on it and you can soak it, dry it out and shoot it.

Its an excellent powder for new day muzzle loaders and in order for me to use it on my sidelocks, the mag spark 209 adapter is a must. The booster charge thing for now works great.

No swabbing between shots, no having to deal with a funky smell, super 2-3 patch clean up. Never have to introduce the barrel to water ever again.
 
Well, if you pool an order with other shooters- I know this requires you to either join a club, or go out of your way to actually find other BP shooters in your area--- you can reduce the cost substantially by ordering the powder in case lots. A case contains 25 lbs. My brother now runs the BP shoots for his gun club, and takes orders for powder from members, periodically. When he has enough to order a case, he puts in the order. Its delivered within a couple of days, and he calls the buyers to tell them when and where to pick up their orders. If there is an adjustment to be made in the final price, he either refunds or collects the addition money as needed.

Join the NMLRA. We have charter clubs in every state, with state representatives you can call to find the nearest clubs. Or go to the NMLRA website and look up the information yourself. The organization publishes Muzzle Blasts, monthly, and the list of state representatives is published several times a year. The November issue has a list of the Charter clubs, with contact information.

You pay the same Haz Mat fee whether you order one pound, 5 pounds, or 25 lbs. So, order more to reduce that cost per pound.

We just checked case prices for Goex powder from Powder, Inc, and it runs about $13.60 per lb. delivered. You can mix granular sizes of powder, too, and get the same price per case. Take a look at Jack's Powder Keg site, and his prices on his home brand.
 
Kentuckywindage said:
Actually blackhorn has a coating on it and you can soak it, dry it out and shoot it.

Its an excellent powder for new day muzzle loaders and in order for me to use it on my sidelocks, the mag spark 209 adapter is a must. The booster charge thing for now works great.

No swabbing between shots, no having to deal with a funky smell, super 2-3 patch clean up. Never have to introduce the barrel to water ever again.

Ah cmon. BP has the sweetest smell on earth. I can't get enough of it.

You're not normal. :rotf:
 
Here's a question i've never seen answered.

I think the Hazmat fee is bunk. Does charging a fee make it safer to ship? Has a shipment of BP ever blown up?
 
Capper said:
Here's a question i've never seen answered.

I think the Hazmat fee is bunk. Does charging a fee make it safer to ship? Has a shipment of BP ever blown up?

good question let me think about it a minute, no

it was carried on the same rack in the same truck by the same frantic driver anything else Ive ordered that got delivered in those brown trucks did, just another fee they can justify I think

(it may have started along its initial route via motor carrier rather than one of them aeroplanes)
 
Yes, I know it has to go by truck. I guess there's no love lost for truck drivers. :idunno:
 
Actually one needs a CDL to haul haz-mat, and the endorsement to go with it (If it is a "reportable quantity") CDL's cost money . . . have to be re-tested every few years, besides being "cleared" by TSA, paying for finger prints . . . all means driver need more money to make it worthwhile . . .

But $25 is crazy! It is some extra paperwork, and special precautions, but I agree it is excessive!

I just try to "bulk up" when I buy.
 
luie b said:
I didn't like pyro due to the fact that it simply wouldn't go bang every time even when my rifle was clean and free of oil. It was a rare occurance but still would happen occasionally.

Well, seems the problem I'm having is that I don't seem to be having the problem you're having. (Huh???) :idunno:

What I mean is, with my Lyman Trade Rifle in .50, shooting #11 caps, Pyrodex P or RS, topped off with Lee REAL bullets draped in Crisco...
My problem is, the gun goes off, first time, every time! With no hangfires!
Sorry! What can I say?
BUT.....that being said, if I come across a sweet deal on the holy black, I won't hesitate to grab it. But not if I have to buy 25 lbs of the stuff, and not if I have to pay more for the HAZMAT than for the friggin' powder. Sorry; I was born at night, but not LAST night! :bull:
 
Capper said:
You'll be thinking of me when you get a misfire. :rotf:

Eventually?...probably. But not when it actually happens.
I'm sure there will be other thoughts running through my head; especially if there's a big buck on the far end of my smoke stick! :cursing:
 
CaptainKirk, thanks for your very good post of 12/01.
 
This post did nothing to put my fears to rest about how corrosive Pyrodex is. I tried some in my Sharps years ago and spent a week trying to get my barrel to stop rusting. I cleaned the gun rigorously every day or so until it finally quit eating the barrel. Never had a problem like this with BP----ever. I'm not alone in this, there have been plenty of other posts from others who experienced the same problem. That was pure salesmans BS.
 
Zonie said:
CaptainKirk said:
OK, had my fill, and just gotta speak up!
Regarding the numerous posts regarding Pyrodex and other BP substitutes; :cursing:

...I feel all better now! :v
I couldn't agree with you more Captain.

Thanks...good to know I'm not all by myself here! :v

Look, people: it's easy to jump on the HateMobile and simply hate something because everyone else is doing it. It's Fun to Hate. Actually, there's something quite American about, if not simply a human trait. But I will tell you this much; out of the last 3 pounds of RS I shot, I had 0 (zero) misfires or hang-fires. That's an average of 100 shots a pound, figuring 70 grains per shot. Times 3! This makes 300 shots without a problem. Look; I don't like using gasoline with ethanol in it. But I'd rather pump "corn gas" than leave the car or bike parked in the driveway to prove a point!
And my point is this: we are giving advice to newbies here. To tell them BP subs are evil & bad and just plain wrong is in itself wrong! Yeah, if you've had your share, go ahead and speak up. But don't condemn the product on the basis of one experience. Hey, maybe you didn't clean the gun well enough, or the nipple? Maybe your sub was old? No telling.....we always remember the bad stuff and forget when things go as planned. It's human nature. But then, placing blame on our own shoulders is a topic many will avoid. Besides, it deprives us of our seat on the HateMobile! :rotf:
 
zrifleman said:
This post did nothing to put my fears to rest about how corrosive Pyrodex is. I tried some in my Sharps years ago and spent a week trying to get my barrel to stop rusting. I cleaned the gun rigorously every day or so until it finally quit eating the barrel. Never had a problem like this with BP----ever. I'm not alone in this, there have been plenty of other posts from others who experienced the same problem. That was pure salesmans BS.

Do I think you're making this up? No. Not at all. But I can't say I've shared your experience with corrosion on my Trade Rifle. Or any of my three caplock pistols.
I don't have the reasons why for you. My recommendation to you would be stay away from Pyrodex in your Sharps. But I'm not gonna give the same advice to the new kid who just bought a TC Hawken and can't get holy black.
That would be like saying "My neighbor had his house broken into by (insert racial epithet), so they're all bad". There's a name for that style of thought, and like Pyrodex, it also starts with a "P".
 
You may not be alone but I won't be standing there with you.

I've shot Pyrodex in my percussion guns for many years and I've never had a rust problem like you describe. In fact, I never have had a rust problem of any kind except for the time I tried TC #13 bore cleaner and it formed rust almost instantly.

I will admit that I clean my guns within 1 hour after I've finished shooting them and some feel that by doing this I have avoided the rust issues some of you folks talk about. Others have pointed out that I live in a dry area of the country and maybe that has something to do with it.

In any case, I've found Pyrodex to be a good propellant that seldom exhibits the negative things some people attribute to it.

I don't have any desire to put anyone's fears to rest when it comes to Pyrodex. I merely tell folks what my experience with it are and let them decide what to do with the information.

For instance, many times I've shot well over 50 rounds in the course of a days shooting in a percussion gun using Pyrodex without needing to wipe the bore even once or without having one mis-fire or hang fire.
 
Another 2 cents worth. I use Pyrodex, Triple Seven, and black poweder. They all work fine for me in my CVA .50 double rifle and Kentucky precussion. No misfire problems. I only use real blackpowder in my flintlock for the reasons posted earlier. I just have not experienced problems with it that other people have had. I have had some realy old Pyrodex in the old cardboard can work ok. Not sure if velocity is at max but seems to go bang with reasonable authority. I still like Black and use it when it suits me.
 
I'll be honest and admit to using Pyro in my C&B revolvers. They always fired, but they're more like an inline than a sidelock. They work with 777 too.

Would you recommend Pyro for a flintlock?

I can't recommend a powder to a noob that might be ok. I know real BP will be ok. No matter what the gun. If everything is right in the gun. It will fire.

Some guns do fine with Pyro. Some don't, and to blame the shooter as captain is doing, is wrong.
Pyro is an iffy powder. It might work. It might not. I don't like anything in my life that might work. Spending a bit more for real BP is worth it for me. It's also nice to know it work go stale sitting on the shelve too.


Now that i've been nice about calling it Pyro. I'll go back to my more comfortable Crapodex. :grin:
 
zrifleman said:
This post did nothing to put my fears to rest about how corrosive Pyrodex is. I tried some in my Sharps years ago and spent a week trying to get my barrel to stop rusting. I cleaned the gun rigorously every day or so until it finally quit eating the barrel. Never had a problem like this with BP----ever. I'm not alone in this, there have been plenty of other posts from others who experienced the same problem. That was pure salesmans BS.

Only way your rifle bore is going to rust up is if its not cleaned properly.

I found this about a month or 2 ago and the stuff is simply amazing. You do have to JB Bore paste your barrel along with a couple other things to ensure its clean, then once thats done and clean and dry, just saturate a patch and give it 3 strokes " up and down count as One stroke" give it 15 minutes to cure and then do another 3 strokes.

Its a ceramic coating that seals up the bore and protects against rust and corrosion. Fouling is super light compared to without the product. I am a big believer in it after i did a couple of my muzzle loaders. www.ultracoatings.com * Bore Coat*

They are supposed to have kits coming out that do one long rifle for around $15 to $25 depending if you want both products.

Both rifles shot with Goex 3f and round ball. You can see the rifle on the right is unprotected and the bore on the left had ultra bore coat.
000_1764.jpg


Again you can easily tell which is untreated. This was with american pioneer powder.
000_1756.jpg


I put 21 rounds through my .54 today thats treated and that sucker loaded up almost as easily as the first shot on a clean bore.
 
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