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Pyrodex...will somebody please explain?

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Here in yUK I shoot Pyrodex because my house insurance does not like me having BP in the house or premises.

Unlike you guys, I only have four BP firearms, two rifles and two handguns. The rifles DO get the real thing, but at 75gr or 90gr per shot you have to have some really good pals around on a BP range day to sub you.

So I pay up on the day.

My two revolvers, one dating from 1978 and the other from 1986, have never been fired with BP in their lives. Both still look like new because I look after them - and at the price that I had to pay for them, so would you. A thousand dollar ROA is quite a responsibility, as was the fifteen hundred dollar second issue Colt Walker.

I have no horse in this race, just a point of view that is entirely dependent on my particular circumstances - I note than many of you guys are also in the same boat from an accessibility POV.

tac
Supporter of the Cape Meares Lighthouse restoration Fund
 
Waugh,

its interesting how many fellers take this here conterversy personal like er like they be personal insulted if'n another feller dont like their choice of propellant

shoot what you want or what ye can get and be happy with the results of your decision

in the end you have rust or ya dont

you have ignition problems or ya dont

the "cost rationale" doesnt fly

I shot lots of P__p__dex, I stopped using it a long time ago, thats my choice.

I reckon some folks get better or worse results due in no small part to their own actions. If youre a marginal cleaner and have a marginal rifle with a gunked up flash channel you might have problems where the guy with a more religious cleaning ethic may never have single misfire ( just as long as he uses the alleged Poor-odex before its "best before January 2011" date)

:v:
 
Amen!
I don't like poopodex for the reasons I have explained.
But in my Cabela's rifles, I NEVER had a misfire! Even when I first got them and was working up loads and learning about ml's. I have in my possession 3 lbs, and it's about 5 years old. And it still goes off every time(with a little fizzle and foom).
So if anyone misunderstood what I said before, I'm not trying to convince anyone not to use it, I was just relating my experience.
If I didn't clean properly or anything like that, I don't know, and I would be the first to admit it. So use your PYRODEX (ouch, it hurt to type that), and may many blessings befall you. :bow: :idunno: :applause:
 
My CDL (with all endorsements) costs me $156.00 every 4 years. Yes, the HAZMAT does have a few hoops to jump through (finger printing, re-testing, homeland security background checks etc,) but I really don't believe that that justifies a $25.00 HAZMAT fee. It's just another way to rip off the consuming public in my opinion.

Vern
 
The only thing that really counts here is what ever you choose to shoot learn how to clean the barrels to protect them and remember flame in flame out :hatsoff:
 
Capper said:
...

Would you recommend Pyro for a flintlock?

I would NEVER recommend using Pyrodex or any other sort of synthetic black powder in a Flintlock unless the chamber was first primed with at least 10 grains of real black powder before loading the synthetic.

As making a 'duplex' powder load is a pain I wouldn't recommend doing it unless someone already had some Pyrodex on hand and wanted to shoot it up in their Flintlock.
 
Zonie said:
Capper said:
...

Would you recommend Pyro for a flintlock?

I would NEVER recommend using Pyrodex or any other sort of synthetic black powder in a Flintlock unless the chamber was first primed with at least 10 grains of real black powder before loading the synthetic.

As making a 'duplex' powder load is a pain I wouldn't recommend doing it unless someone already had some Pyrodex on hand and wanted to shoot it up in their Flintlock.

You do see the point I was making?
 
No I don't.

With the exception of mentioning that you have used Pyrodex in your C&B pistols almost every other thing you have written is aimed at ridiculing anyone who used it and calling it by your homemade name of Crapodex.

If you truly want to help newcomers learn about a product in addition to mentioning its weaknesses you should mention its good points.
Only by doing that will they have a good basis for deciding if they want to use it.

At least that's my thoughts.
 
I have spent many years on traditional archery forums, reading through all this tells me one thing.........Rodney King was right, "Cant we all just get along?" :rotf:
 
Just to add a little to the fire Try shooting pryo after it has been wet Then try with black powder both dryed in the sun. See which one you like better.
 
Zonie said:
No I don't.

With the exception of mentioning that you have used Pyrodex in your C&B pistols almost every other thing you have written is aimed at ridiculing anyone who used it and calling it by your homemade name of Crapodex.

If you truly want to help newcomers learn about a product in addition to mentioning its weaknesses you should mention its good points.
Only by doing that will they have a good basis for deciding if they want to use it.

At least that's my thoughts.

Can't believe I need to explain it to you. My complaint about Pyro is it has a higher temp to set it off. I never mentioned the corrosive problems it has. Too many others already did that.

So, by you saying you wouldn't recommend it for flintlocks, is saying you agree with me. If it has a huge problem with flintlocks. Don't you think it might have a problem with caplocks too?

Real BP is fine in flintlocks and Pyro isn't. That doesn't strike you that Pyro might have a problem outside of 209 ignition guns? You say you have no problem with C&B revolvers. Those are inlines and don't relate to sidelocks.

They can't even get Pyro pellets to fire in 209 inlines without putting some unknown substance on the pellets to get them to fire.

Getting a noob to use real BP instead of Pyro is not something I feel guilty about. At least I know their gun will fire.

Just read the posts by members who have trouble with misfires using Pyro. It's too easy to dismiss them as not knowing how to clean their guns. That's a copout and not facing the real problem that Pyro has problems in some guns.

Go to the CAS forums and see what they think of Crapodex.

For the record. The short time I tried CrapO in my C&B. It never performed as good as BP.


It's a good powder for inlines. It has no business in traditional muzzleloading. What's next? Use Powerbelts too?
 
I clean my guns just fine when shooting black and never have a rust problem. Cleaning the same after shooting pyro permitted rust. Had to scrub the bores and muzzle repeatedly to stop the rust. I found that the old US army WW2 era surplus bore cleaner seems to neutralize the black powder residue.

To say that some of us didn't clean our guns well enough, is really a goofy response. Metals for gun barrels vary as to the microscopic crystalline make up of the metals. Some steels have more crazing ( surface cracks and pores) than others. Scrubbing the residue out of those cracks and pores, is harder to do with some steel. And in an old iron barrel, pyro is just bore poison. I have a chromium lined bore on a hawken that is about the easiest thing on earth to clean. My old trapdoor is a real chore to scrub out.
 
jaw69 said:
Just to add a little to the fire Try shooting pryo after it has been wet Then try with black powder both dryed in the sun. See which one you like better.

Why would you want to do either? :idunno:
 
By falling in a creek, or a well or a pond, fall out of a boat get caught in a toad drowning rain any number of things can happen and do happen that is why
 
Not sure what your point is? Are you going to try and dig out the wet powder from you gun, lay it in the sun to dry, and reuse it?
 
zimmerstutzen said:
I clean my guns just fine when shooting black and never have a rust problem. Cleaning the same after shooting pyro permitted rust. Had to scrub the bores and muzzle repeatedly to stop the rust. I found that the old US army WW2 era surplus bore cleaner seems to neutralize the black powder residue.

To say that some of us didn't clean our guns well enough, is really a goofy response. Metals for gun barrels vary as to the microscopic crystalline make up of the metals. Some steels have more crazing ( surface cracks and pores) than others. Scrubbing the residue out of those cracks and pores, is harder to do with some steel. And in an old iron barrel, pyro is just bore poison. I have a chromium lined bore on a hawken that is about the easiest thing on earth to clean. My old trapdoor is a real chore to scrub out.

I didn't say that. I said IT WAS A POSSIBILITY. I've seen the way some people clean, and treat, their guns. I was not inferring that you, or anyone else in particular here did not clean their guns properly, only that it was a possibility that improper cleaning could lead to rust in the bore. This goes for black powder as well.
What amazes me, quite frankly, is that I have owned 3 C&B pistols and my Lyman Trade Rifle going on 25 years, fed nothing but Pyrodex and cleaned with Hoppes #9 Plus followed by months, sometimes years of non-shooting storage. According to most of you, these should be un-shootable rustbuckets by now. So, why are they not? For the most part, they look brand new.
Maybe it's the metals used on these guns? Maybe it's the fact I don't clean up with soapy water, choosing to use BP solvents instead?
I don't know, but I'm not making this stuff up.
Bottom line:
You don't like Pyro. Fine! Don't shoot it! But don't tell me I shouldn't because it will ruin my guns. I do, and it hasn't. Refute THAT! :idunno:
 
Kentuckywindage said:
jaw69 said:
Just to add a little to the fire Try shooting pryo after it has been wet Then try with black powder both dryed in the sun. See which one you like better.

Why would you want to do either? :idunno:

+1 on that! :thumbsup:
 
I don't want to read the whole thread again, but could you quote when someone said to you personally "don't use use Pyro Captain".

Just curious.
 
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