Silk PLA+Cool- what material are they?
Silk PLA+Cool- what material are they?
I probably would have ventilated that buck @smo! Good on you for having more self control than me.Spent another day in the Tennessee woods.
Nice cool morning with little too no wind…
A magical time of the year!
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Gotta leave some for seed….I probably would have ventilated that buck @smo! Good on you for having more self control than me.
I have only ever used regular PLA and have never used it for anything that will be under load or be required to hold a heavy weight. Have you used the PLA+ for holding up heavier loads? Sure don’t want a nice rifle to come down!Silk PLA+
This'll be my first print that will be holding something to the wall. Originally, I used 10% infill on a test part and was surprised at how sturdy it felt so I made another, PLA+ is supposed to have better mechanical properties than regular PLA. Once I get them mounted to the wall I'm going to put some weights in a couple backpacks before hanging the rifle up there to be safe, though I expect it'll be more than strong enough even with this low % of infill. All of the shear force will be about 1" from the wall, the outside of the hook is mostly to keep the rifle from rolling out.I have only ever used regular PLA and have never used it for anything that will be under load or be required to hold a heavy weight. Have you used the PLA+ for holding up heavier loads? Sure don’t want a nice rifle to come down!
I have 14 sycamores. Made a kitchen counter out of quarter sawn sycamore. It is a world of difference from flat sawn! Like to see that plug when you put a finish to it.Moving a little slow today, but I got a plug turned for the powder horn. Ended up using a piece of Sycamore that’s been sitting a couple of years. The wood works good. Still have to turn the stopper.
It’s a good wood for carving and working. I have a fair amount in the shop.I have 14 sycamores. Made a kitchen counter out of quarter sawn sycamore. It is a world of difference from flat sawn! Like to see that plug when you put a finish to it.
Really came out nice. I'd be happy too.I finished the Long Fowler that I have been working on for several weeks. I am pretty happy with how it came out. More pics here: Finishing A Fowler Build
How long were you in the closet? Sorry, Felonious, I'm an English teacher. Man, I think it's time to retire!Sighted in the trusty old deer M/L after some time spent in the closet.
View attachment 267502 I'll take it. The rifle shoots better than I can anyway
I also have read that PLA+ is stronger - good idea to test it for awhile. I would be interested in hearing about your results after you have tested strength for awhile.This'll be my first print that will be holding something to the wall. Originally, I used 10% infill on a test part and was surprised at how sturdy it felt so I made another, PLA+ is supposed to have better mechanical properties than regular PLA. Once I get them mounted to the wall I'm going to put some weights in a couple backpacks before hanging the rifle up there to be safe, though I expect it'll be more than strong enough even with this low % of infill. All of the shear force will be about 1" from the wall, the outside of the hook is mostly to keep the rifle from rolling out.
How long were you in the closet? Sorry, Felonious, I'm an English teacher. Man, I think it's time to retire!
Stunning targets. Congrats!
Pete
How long were you in the closet? Sorry, Felonious, I'm an English teacher. Man, I think it's time to retire!
Stunning targets. Congrats!
Pete
Holy cow! An absolutely beautiful job in record time. First rate! Between this and your horn work, do you ever sleep? I really enjoyed following this. Thank you for sharing!I finished the Long Fowler that I have been working on for several weeks. I am pretty happy with how it came out. More pics here: Finishing A Fowler Build
I’m glad you’ve been enjoying this thread/ it’s been a great experience finishing up this project. I did get some helpful suggestions here about the biggest challenge of getting a lock similar in shape and pan location to work with the mortise Gallaghan had already cut. But it came out pretty well.Holy cow! An absolutely beautiful job in record time. First rate! Between this and your horn work, do you ever sleep? I really enjoyed following this. Thank you for sharing!
Another beauty, looks great Bob, I like that length!I finished the Long Fowler that I have been working on for several weeks. I am pretty happy with how it came out. More pics here: Finishing A Fowler Build
Nice "stumbling"!It's intentional as a decorative thing. I'm going to school for 3D design, so I'm very much stumbling my way through the software. I wanted it to be a pointed hook but couldn't figure out how to cut that bit out properly. Version 2 will have that and a longer lower hook when I get around to it
You'll get it! Always fun reinventing the wheel.Working on making a barrel flushing fitting for the cva Kentucky.
First I shortened the Allan headed screw for length. Then drilled it with a 5/64 bit. Easy to center going in although it popped out a little off. Not a fail, just an imperfection.
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After a little thread cleanup it seems to have an ok length with the 0 ring in place.
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I had hoped that the clamp I'd purchased for the project would work but it was immediately apparent that the clearance would not be adequate. Hmmm why didn't I see that coming!
If the tubing were tight enough to remain in place this would have been a done deal but it would not. Solution: some thin wire twisted into a clamp.
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That oughta work, eh? NOT! Even this clamp solution wouldn't work. This tiny protruding piece of twisted wire came into interference with the stock before the 0 ring snugged up. I'm forgiving myself for not seeing this coming
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Here's how a Commercially made fitting looks. This one 1/4 × 28 so it's a no go on the CVA.
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So, I think it can be done right with a headless Allan screw and smaller tube that will attach better to the protruding threads.
I'll be baaaaack!
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