Building me a N.W. tradegun. Again ! :D

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That is one angry looking knot. I hope the stock works out for you.
I finally came to my senses and decided to use a de ent piece of walnut instead . Figured ....be nice for me to finally have a nice gun for once .. I'm always using junk wood or parts for my personal guns to save money or parts ,materials .
 
Ok , with the lock in the bolster but lock plate not even started inlet yet ... Things you want to line up and fob, look for and adjust . ...You want the T.H. to be in good area ( BUT , in the area , it can be moved , the mark is the proposed optimum spot ) , I like the top of lock at bolster between cock and pan flash guard , to be even or close to top of the wood ( but that can be taken down if wood is too high, should be half way on barrel ) , now .... the front screw .... there is the marks I made earlier ...the web is where the front screw goes , hopefully ! , so you have to have enough meat in that front area of lock plate to get a hole drilled and threaded for the lock screw and sometimes , this one included unfortunately , you have to tilt the front of the lock up a tad to get that plate over the that web of wood where the lock bolt will hopefully be coming through . It sucks you have to do this , youll see it on many originals too , as it throws off the lines of the gun a bit but I want that front screw ...and it BARELY made it too ! SHEEW ! I should havevtilted it even note but was hoping to get away with it and just did . This is the very reason you will rarely see a front lock bolt on a Ken Netting flintlock . He is an artist and unless you insist he does not like to put that front bolt in because of this reason .... Once plate is where you want it to be , hold it down and trace it , then start inletting the lock plate down . Watch gap at barrel as it gets closer and closer each inlet ...when it gets close like 1/8" or tad more , I it the black on it to try and get it to go down evenly , ie ....too much gap up front , space between bolster and barrel then I just take off black on front until its even again , then black off both ends , the rear is high and front is touching , no more taken off front just rear ....keep this up until the bolster is touching barrel and is even . It can be fine tuned later but lime to get it darn close this time . look down barrel at lock too , make sure top or bottom isn't kicked out , if it I'd do same thing , ie top is kicked out a bit , remove black spots at top under lock plate only then check again , until its straight up an down . Slight gaps at pan are taken care of later , not now ....
 

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Once the bolster is touching barrel and evenly ... Take under sized bit and drill slightly down each hole in plate , dont hurt the t threads ! This is for late to put parts on holes and trace the parts for inletting , ... Then I like to do the side plate / lock bolts while everything is still square . First bolt is the #2 bolt ... Mark half of bolster thickness and half way between line in front of cock and flash pan , center punch it . Clamp barrel down then drill that hole all day through lock plate , wood , bolster , out other side , do tap drill size .138 , for 8/32" . then remove plate and drill the stock 3/16 for clearance of bolt . on front of lock plate at place farthest forward at web section venter punch then drill the same way and tap ...got both S.P. / lock bolts fitted now ... Next will be getting lock guts inletted and lock functioning ....
 

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So put parts in mortice aligned with holes put in the mortice earlier and trace the parts , hog out all parts rough ...oh yeah , drill sear arm hole first . then reassemble lock and put inlet black on the inside , where cock hits wood on top of mortice too , very important ... Start tapping lock in and taking it out seeing where black is ....takes a while , just keep at it ....keep blackening and then tapping lock in and removing the black on inside . I had a devil of a time with the sear on this one ! Geesh ! Watch as it keeps going down , watch gap disappear at barrel . When gap is gone and bolster is back against the barrel , it'll leave black too , and the lock will go in all three positions , then you are done . I went ahead and marked the trigger position on bottom , center line , then marked sear hole on sided then bottom and drilled them out .092 ... Connected the holes to make a slot ...used this to cycle and work the lock checking for freedom of movement etc. Plus its just fun to play with the work gun now ! :)
 

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.... sorry , pics might be slow or scarce for awhile ...all my high speed , which is laughable out here in the stix , is gone till my next payment ...
Takes forever to download a pic out here with the " high speed " , its even slower without it ... I just post some pics then set the phone in the window , best spot , and kinda forget about the phone for awhile then later remember about the post after awhile and go over and hit the " post " button. LOL ! Poor folks got poor ways :)
 

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.... sorry , pics might be slow or scarce for awhile ...all my high speed , which is laughable out here in the stix , is gone till my next payment ...
Takes forever to download a pic out here with the " high speed " , its even slower without it ... I just post some pics then set the phone in the window , best spot , and kinda forget about the phone for awhile then later remember about the post after awhile and go over and hit the " post " button. LOL ! Poor folks got poor ways :)
Be ready to test fire in a couple days,coming along very nice Rob😉
 
Rob you need to do a book with this information/ or video... So much fantastic information you have presented...
A cheap loose leaf book would be kind cool . Much like Bill did it . Very inexpensive so anyone could afford it . I really wonder though , doesnt seem to be many folks will or wanting to try to build .I could be wrong but just doesn't seem like to many hard core folks willing to do the work , sure would like to help out any such person though . Also ( joking , having fun here ) ...a few folks on this forum tell.me I'm full of $hit and do t know what I'm talkin about so maybe I'll just stop . I'm just making all this $hit up so I can try and look smart to everyone anyway ! LOL :D
 
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..a few folks on this forum tell.me I'm full of $hit and do t know what I'm talkin about so maybe I'll just stop . I'm just making all this $hit up so I can try and look smart to everyone anyway ! LOL :D
Well if you are you are good at it because you have me convinced that you are a master trade gun artist. And please don't stop posting. Reading about your builds is one of the highlights of my day.
 
I'm using that trigger I lost and then found , after I made a new one , on the last build so cut down my time a bit . It already had a hole in it so was a bit+CH gettin it lined up etc. but got it so ....its a working mechanism now . Trigger got some slop but fix that later ....
 

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Well if you are you are good at it because you have me convinced that you are a master trade gun artist. And please don't stop posting. Reading about your builds is one of the highlights of my day.
LOL .... Very kind of bud , glad you like my builds . I was just playing....ya all are stuck with me ! I got no where else to talk trade guns ! :D
 
Trigger in and working ...measure your length of pull , mark it , square of tope of yer comb and mark it good for saw .Cut off any extra wood at buttstock end .Cut out yer buttplate , I use a Whately style buttplate pattern from Bills book . I cut it out rough then grind and file it to finish , bend tab over in the vice , anneal if you can , then lay it on , over the heal of buttstock and trace the B.P. tab ....inlet it down flush ...then mark your 8 buttplate nail holes , still them , I make nails . then I hammer on that ole buttplate ....
 

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Clean up buttplate with file , Trace and inlet B.P. tang , drill holes in B.P. ,make nails then nail B.P. on buttstock ...mark top of comb ... Cool beans
 

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Some rough shaping before I call it a day ... Sheew !! Kicking my @r$e !!
 

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