First batch of "Moose Snot"

[Greenmtnboy]

I made my first batch of stumpys Moose Snot tonight. I believe it turned out correct, I have never seen it before so I have no way of judging what I was cooking up in the kitchen. My wife was extremely curious about what I was doing. :hmm:

The mixture I ended up with is a creamy white color, Is that correct? And the consistency reminds me of minwax paste wax, is that correct?

Hay melsdad can you post your results when you try shooting it in your favorite smoke pole?
I can no longer find my commercial wet lube and am going to have to develop my own.
Wouldn't mine seeing what kind of accuracy other members are getting with moose snot.

 

[CZMark]

That's funny, I made my first batches of Moose Snot and Moose Juice Saturday night as well. I put one tin of Snot outside overnight--with the temp at -8F in the morning, the stuff was still soft enough to be useable.

 

[brubincam]

--------SNOT FUNNY-------- :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

[mike alexandre]

I doubt you will find a better lube than Moose Snot. I find it easy to make and the results are very good. I use this mainly in smoothbore. For rifles Moose Milk is better and I find it best to not pre soak patches for more than approx 2 weeks,after that the fabric of the patch goes a bit gluppie.

 

[renoman]

how are you getting it (the moose snot) evenly into/onto your patches?

 

[melsdad]

That is the process I used, as per the instructions. But it doesn't tell you how to store the patches.

I store rolled strips of patching in tins.

HD

Thanks Huntin Dawg :thumbsup:

 

[melsdad]

I made my first batch of stumpys Moose Snot tonight. I believe it turned out correct, I have never seen it before so I have no way of judging what I was cooking up in the kitchen. My wife was extremely curious about what I was doing. :hmm:

The mixture I ended up with is a creamy white color, Is that correct? And the consistency reminds me of minwax paste wax, is that correct?

Hay melsdad can you post your results when you try shooting it in your favorite smoke pole?
I can no longer find my commercial wet lube and am going to have to develop my own.
Wouldn't mine seeing what kind of accuracy other members are getting with moose snot.

I will be glad to. Actually I can't wait to get to the range this weekend and try this stuff out. I am working on a load for a PRB for my rifle.

 

[jtmattison]

how are you getting it (the moose snot) evenly into/onto your patches?

That's the tricky part.

I lay a strip of patching on my workbench and spread the snot on with a putty knife. It's pretty easy to work it into the weave this way and the excess can just be scraped off.

HD

 

[melsdad]

how are you getting it (the moose snot) evenly into/onto your patches?

I poured the Snoot into tins that are 2 3/8" diameter and 1" deep. I wipe a patch across the top of the snoot, and then work it in with my thumb and fingers.

This stuff works as a moisturizer also :rotf: :rotf: My hands were really dry before I lubed my patches. Now they are nice and soft, and they smell like Murphy's Oil Soap :rotf: :rotf:

 

[Stumpkiller]

Can you tell us a little more about how you made it and what you put into it?? What's the advantage of it over what can be bought?

There may, in fact, be no advantage at all in your rifle. I worked up Moose Snot for a particular rifle that was giving me fits (a .50 New Englander) and it worked out after I tested a BUNCH of components for rust and clean up, smear, etc. It has worked well in all of my rifles and smoothbores, so I can say it may work well in yours . . . or not.

One advantage is I find it a LOT less messy than Bore Butter/Natural Lube 1000. I like to carry pre-lubed and patched balls in ball-blocks when shooting or hunting and Moose Snot is ideal for that. It's also quite a bit cheaper depending on the components you buy (castor oil varies a lot from place-to-place). It's stable over a wide range of temperatures, won't melt and make a mess in a tin in most summer conditions hereabouts (if kept in some shade), and is useable down to very cold temperatures (I've reloaded after a day in 15º below zero F and that's as far as I ever hope to test it).

Here are a 25 and a 50 yard 5-shot each sitting (ground - not bench) with my flintlock .54 and 84 gr 3Fg and standing offhand 3-shot with my .50 percussion at 50 yards w/85 gr 2Fg (and this gun started lobbing by 5 in 6" at 50 yards sitting when I retired it as a rifle for some years in disgust).

They all like something different. Your results may vary as your techniques and cleaning methods are no doubt different from mine.

 

[jes10x1]

OK, I liked the comments on the moose snot, but what is Moose Milk & how does one make that?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Go to Member resources at the top of the Index page, and look for " Stumpy's Moose Milk" You will find all the formulas there, with explanatoins. Then come back and read these comments again, and they will make even more sense to you.

 

[melsdad]

I must be missing something, but all that I see are the recipe's for for the snoot, and the juice. I don't see the recipe for the milk. :hmm:

 

[jtmattison]

I must be missing something, but all that I see are the recipe's for for the snoot, and the juice. I don't see the recipe for the milk. :hmm:

Milk and juice are the same thing. "moose milk" is the old name for it from way back. Stumpy calls his moose juice.

HD

 

[paulvallandigham]

Sorry I confused you. As Hunting Dawg explained, Stumpkillers " milk" is called " juice ". But you have the two formulas. Many people here have made this up, although there seems to be a lot of variations based on the cost and availability of Castor Oil. People ares sugstituting other oils, with much success.

I hated being given Castor Oil as a kid, and If my mother and father still had their home, I would go looking for whatever is left in that bottle and dispose of it making this stuff!

 

[Stumpkiller]

"Moose Milk" is a generic term for a liquid home-made blackpowder solvent and lube. That's been floating around for at least 40 years that I know of. Most recipes involve NAPA water soluable cutting oil, water and from there it's a free-for-all. Zonie actually suggested I go with "Moose Juice" as mine was a bit different and used alcohol and alochol soluable castor oil instead of the petroleum oil.

Substitute anything you like but be warned that some things can cancel the benefits of others and certain products can harm metal and the wood finish of the stock if slopped over. I cringe when I see guys using Hydrogen Peroxide on steel but many do and to each his own.

 

[Zonie]

Stumpies comments saying "it might not work for you" brings to mind the latest issue of Muzzle Blasts magazine.
There is a good article about the effects of different patch lubes and the author found that just by changing the lube group sizes shrank and enlarged by a considerable amount depending on which lube he used. The lube was the only difference so, try Stumpies Moose Juice. It might be just what your looking for (or not). :grin:

As for Castor Oil, many rust tests have shown that it is very hard to beat its rust preventing qualities.
Although it didn't do very well in my tests dealing with fouling, one must remember that I used undiluted Castor oil and it is VERY thick.

 

[romeoh]

Well, now that I found out what "castor oil" means I was to curious to stop myself from trying it. :surrender:
I could gather together everything, even Murphy´s oil soap was availiable here in germany. It´s sold in horse supply shops for cleaning leather stuff.
Not a cheap amusement compared with US prices... But hey, I was able to use your "original formula". :v
So today my girl´s kitchen was changed into a moose-snot laboratory... :grin:

Seems to me I made it right.
Compared with other stuff I´ve used before I went with ballistol/water mixes my impression is: Looks and feels like really good stuff for patches. :thumbsup:
Looking forward to try it out.
Thanks to all of you guys! And of course especially to Stumpy! :bow:

Now, having my own moose snot right here another question comes up to me.
:hmm: Could it also work well for lubing conicals? Maxis and Minies?
Anyone of you ever tried the snot for this?

 

[jtmattison]

Now, having my own moose snot right here another question comes up to me.
:hmm: Could it also work well for lubing conicals? Maxis and Minies?
Anyone of you ever tried the snot for this?

Yes. It works great on conicals of all types.

HD

 

[Stumpkiller]

Hope it works out well for you!

Murphy's is a vegetable oil soap - as is "saddle soap". I tried to stick with vintage type ingrediants even though I have no evidence lubes were used or mixed up in the 1700's. Seems spit, hearth wipings off the pots (grease was carefully saved, unlike today) or rendered bear fat/grease was good enough.

I have a thicker version I have used on conicals and as a cylinder over-ball grease for revolvers

Stumpy’s Moose Marrow

Beeswax 3 oz.
Castor Oil 9 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 1 oz.