One thing confuses me, and that's probably a source of not getting the best results: do scaling and carding refer to the same process?
I know and understand carding
I know and understand carding
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My Kibler SMR Build Log
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NRFord
36 Cl.
As you said "LMF is very versatile", and their directions reflect that. I believe there are as someone else stated "more than one way to skin a cat" I'm sure my method wasn't exactly by the written directions, but very close. I do know it very easily accomplished what I was after.
I myself read the directions everytime I go to use the stuff and I still seem to find something new!
NRFord
36 Cl.
Yes.
Build Log Update
Metal Finish Tests
Now that I understand that scaling and carding refer to the same process, I card the last application of LMF brown on my trigger guard subject (with a piece of Scotchbrite pad) and it's looking more promising:
I think another one or two applications, and I'll be where I want to be.
Metal Finish Tests
Now that I understand that scaling and carding refer to the same process, I card the last application of LMF brown on my trigger guard subject (with a piece of Scotchbrite pad) and it's looking more promising:
I think another one or two applications, and I'll be where I want to be.
For some folks when two roads diverge they somehow always manage to take the one less traveled by….. and many of these folks are surprised when it leads to a challenging and difficult path involving extra effort and work that others are reluctant to follow. But as they blindly plow forward it is their choice to continually attempt to be that lone wolf….
Apologies to Mr Frost.
Apologies to Mr Frost.
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Build Log #19
Pinning Parts
My idea of waiting to do the pinning I realized was a no-go because before the stock can be sanded, all the parts needed to be located in their proper positions. My plan is to drill the guide holes, then remove the part to drill the pin holes outside the stock. I'm more comfortable with the extra step.
I'm starting with the trigger guard, which fits and is clamped into place:
Kibler provides some small tools to facilitate drilling pin holes. Including drill bits and a drill bit guide, which centers in the pre-drilled stock hole and shields the stock from the bit:
So I got the guide holes drilled, but somehow, and honestly I can't remember and don't understand how, the guide got damaged:
I remember dropping it on the floor at some point, but don't see how that would have produced the damage observed. I was drilling without the adapter because the drill chuck was holding the drill bit OK. If you know how this damaged happened, please post.
I hope they sell these at the hardware store.
Anyhow, I got the pin holes drilled:
Put the guard back in the stock, cut and rounded the pins, and since the forward pin is blind on the lock side, I pulled the pins and the part to make sure the forward pin goes all the way through:
Then the guard got put back in, repinned and the pins trimmed:
Unfortunately, I'll be waiting to do the rest of the pinning until I can get another guide bushing.
Pinning Parts
My idea of waiting to do the pinning I realized was a no-go because before the stock can be sanded, all the parts needed to be located in their proper positions. My plan is to drill the guide holes, then remove the part to drill the pin holes outside the stock. I'm more comfortable with the extra step.
I'm starting with the trigger guard, which fits and is clamped into place:
Kibler provides some small tools to facilitate drilling pin holes. Including drill bits and a drill bit guide, which centers in the pre-drilled stock hole and shields the stock from the bit:
So I got the guide holes drilled, but somehow, and honestly I can't remember and don't understand how, the guide got damaged:
I remember dropping it on the floor at some point, but don't see how that would have produced the damage observed. I was drilling without the adapter because the drill chuck was holding the drill bit OK. If you know how this damaged happened, please post.
I hope they sell these at the hardware store.
Anyhow, I got the pin holes drilled:
Put the guard back in the stock, cut and rounded the pins, and since the forward pin is blind on the lock side, I pulled the pins and the part to make sure the forward pin goes all the way through:
Then the guard got put back in, repinned and the pins trimmed:
Unfortunately, I'll be waiting to do the rest of the pinning until I can get another guide bushing.
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Build Log Update
Metal Finish Tests
After one more application of LMF rust brown and carding (with Scotchbrite):
I think this is approaching where I want it. Maybe one more application. But for right now, baking soda'ed and oiled to stop process because of working with it to pin it.
Actually, the pic doesn't do justice; it's a real pain trying to position the camera to pick up what I see.
Metal Finish Tests
After one more application of LMF rust brown and carding (with Scotchbrite):
I think this is approaching where I want it. Maybe one more application. But for right now, baking soda'ed and oiled to stop process because of working with it to pin it.
Actually, the pic doesn't do justice; it's a real pain trying to position the camera to pick up what I see.
NRFord
36 Cl.
Drill it out and file outside diameter, and reuse. It's plenty long enough. My bet is when you dropped it, damage occurred, this is VERY thin metal...
I like your "log", I understand it isn't a how to, you are just showing YOUR learning process warts and all.
I did a very detailed log on my first squirrel rifle build from a pre-carve on the Primitive Archer site. A lot of these guys didn't know anything about gun building and may or may not have done a CVA or TC kit in the past. I have bought two kits at bargain basement prices when the initial buyers realized these kits were way over their heads and the required ability to complete them.
Like you, I showed the process from a beginner's point of view, warts and all as well as fixing all of my goof-ups plus the usual pre-carve challenges because the pre-carver had poor quality control.
Very good pictures and content, keep it going, a lot of us enjoy this type of thing.
I did a very detailed log on my first squirrel rifle build from a pre-carve on the Primitive Archer site. A lot of these guys didn't know anything about gun building and may or may not have done a CVA or TC kit in the past. I have bought two kits at bargain basement prices when the initial buyers realized these kits were way over their heads and the required ability to complete them.
Like you, I showed the process from a beginner's point of view, warts and all as well as fixing all of my goof-ups plus the usual pre-carve challenges because the pre-carver had poor quality control.
Very good pictures and content, keep it going, a lot of us enjoy this type of thing.
Thanks, I did try drilling it out right away using the 52 wire gauge bit, and I broke the bit. Sigh. Good thing my pin hole guide holes were already drilled.
Before you do anything on your kit. Do you take time to watch Jim's how to video's...? No offense because their are a lot of people who struggle putting any of his kits together and seriously I don't get it.. I don't know how much simpler he can make them..
Personally I think some people over think each operation to assemble the kit. JMHO
Personally I think some people over think each operation to assemble the kit. JMHO
Multiple times. They're a must. I'm almost to seeing him at night in my dreams. There's so many tiny details that slip by until you get to that specific part. Rewatch the specific video for that detail. Best do everything in the same order, as I've learned by not doing it that way.
I also want to point out that many helpful technique videos are NOT in the SMR build playlist, so one needs to be aware of that and look for them.
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I have not looked at all his videos. Those pin holes always worried me how to get them in the right spot, now things are looking a little clear. Gonna watch videos tonight. THANKS
Build Log Update
Pinning Work-around?
I'm about to leave for the hardware store and I get a brainstorm. Oh, oh - I can see them cringing already!! Hah!!
Anyway, I wanted to try this:
A 1/16 punch fits neatly into the pinhole. The punch will NOT mark the tab well enough just by pounding on it. But how about if I apply Sharpie to the tab, insert the punch, and twist it?
That's a pretty well-defined mark. (clear circle in center of black; bad pic due to glare; easy to see with own eyes).
Well enough to drill through if need be? Still thinking about that. Opinions welcome.
Now off to the hardware store.
Pinning Work-around?
I'm about to leave for the hardware store and I get a brainstorm. Oh, oh - I can see them cringing already!! Hah!!
Anyway, I wanted to try this:
A 1/16 punch fits neatly into the pinhole. The punch will NOT mark the tab well enough just by pounding on it. But how about if I apply Sharpie to the tab, insert the punch, and twist it?
That's a pretty well-defined mark. (clear circle in center of black; bad pic due to glare; easy to see with own eyes).
Well enough to drill through if need be? Still thinking about that. Opinions welcome.
Now off to the hardware store.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
Just cut off the smashed part. I never use those goofy guides anyway.
Comfortably_Numb
The Evil Mike Brooks
I'm betting your tab is too big and is hitting on the barrel instead of bottoming out on the wood. 95% of the guys I have taught make this mistake.
Already caught that, thanks. Comment in #18 (pipe-fitting).
Now your thinking outside the box and I am pretty sure you ain't the only person to ever do something like this.
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i had to take some material off of the tab on all of my pipes... a few minutes with a fine file and i was all set ... be sure to check that you're not 'bottoming out' on the underside of the barrel - i would guess tis will play havoc with accuracy when the weather changes and you start having the top of the pipes push on the bottom of the barrel and tinker up the harmonics.
also, when i did my pipes, i took the edge of my file and put a nick in the front pipe, two nicks in the next one back, and so on... this way i wouldn't be standing there after i blued them wondering where the little sharpie number had gone to ... hate it when that happens
also, when i did my pipes, i took the edge of my file and put a nick in the front pipe, two nicks in the next one back, and so on... this way i wouldn't be standing there after i blued them wondering where the little sharpie number had gone to ... hate it when that happens
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