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I dunno bout Col. but they sluffin in to N.E.Ore. and workin on the Elk herds !

My short barrel really likes 28grs FFFg under an oxyoke lubed wad,.454 ball . 25yds shoots a nice tight group :thumbsup:

Best use a lathe with barrel dial indicated to ensure its running true before chamfering muzzle then . Thumb , ball bearing , oversize ball etc. , all the same and will not be as accurate of job as can be done with lathe . But ...........for errors in most shooter situations I highly doubt...

Rear sight goes on second to front sight and positioned where front sight is clearest when sighting and mounting gun in a normal shooting position. As all of us dont have the same vision there is no 'set' position and as most of us get older and our vision weakens moving the rear sight toward...

Chuck barrel up in lathe , dial indicate to ensure running true and crown at desired optimum angle for your application . Or ............get a piece of fine emery paper wet and apply pressure with your thumb , give a few twists to break the sharp edge, then go shoot and have some fun...

Same here Zonie , cept I spit on the wet/dry paper to wet it a bit . :thumbsup:

How many grains of 2f are you fellers runnin ? Around 60-70 grns 2fg ?

I cross drill a hole in jaw screw so I can use my vent pick . :wink:

It looks like you used Bondo or similar to cast the pattern piece . For making the angled bottem cuts for oct. barrels do you use a 45deg router bit or custom grind ?

Good job :thumbsup: Very well done indeed!

Always had good service from them . They check physically for stock when taking order.

Ive used a router with a straight bit for sides and center then a 45 deg for bottem angled flats . I used a piece of 2" angle iron about 16" long 'C' clamped to router base for a guide on side of blank . Taking no more than 1/16" cuts and going slow it was quite easy although nerve racking ...

Swamp is a double taper . It tapers from breech toward muzzle somewheres about 8" from muzzle then flares back out to muzzle . Makes a nice balance and cuts weight down.

Paul, you are right , but a lot of times a bit of shock value will break the crust where a steady tension will not . I dont go at it as if splitting wood :haha: A good sharp rap most times does it .

I made a wrench like the one shown out of 1" square stock with 12" handle that I could wack with a lead hammer . The jaws have 1/8" brass soft soldered to them to keep from marring plug . I use brass or aluminum jaw pads in my vise to hold barrel and give the handle a solid wack with the lead...

I took a 5/8" flat washer and ran a countersink in till it tapered to a real sharp edge then ran the washer over emory paper to sharpen it up.It shaves a rod pretty good by sticking rod through the large side of taper and scraping against smaller diameter pulling toward you.

If you are on the high and dry , and can get a hole dug 5-6' deep the ground stays a pretty constant temp without great flucuations in temp . Without the huge tep variations you shouldnt have the sweating to deal with. So a 55 gal drum with the clamp on rings with rubber seal(and a little RTV...

I drilled and tapped for breeches in mid 70's following Jim Carmicheal(sp) how to in a book he wrote. I used the drill press with table turned vertical and vise mounted solid . Didnt have a problem , just worked slow .

Tom, I have an abrasive 'Zip' blade and can cut them in half then make a handle to accept shorter chisels . How would that be ?

Sure you do , send the plate and I'll weld it up :wink: